The Official 1987 Two Door Body Off RE-build Thread!

Well, finally making a little bit of progress. Picked up a 19 dollah sawzall from Harbor Freight and got to cutting! Like a warm knife through butter!

Here are a few pictures:


I might re use the stock fan!

Or not...






Getting ready for a scrap run!

Hey nice corvette!

Its good to see you in the early stages of progress. Keep us posted.

Another member that doesn't mess around!!!! Good to see her getting the 6 billion dollar man treatment! I'm actively following this thread from now on!

Thanks guys! Yeah early stages is an understatement. I have to yank off the fenders and move the car into the tent garage too!

Not to mention what I have to do to the red car. Pull two motors/trans sell one motor maybe one tranny? Always good to have a spare I guess LOL

Rebuild the 350 over the winter, probably make it a 355.

next summer is going to be very busy with stripping the frame setting it all with new...well everything!

Have a terrible head cold, but its warm out so I had to do some work without freezing! It feels great lol!

Got one fender off, am a 1/4 of the way from taking the other one off, will take until I find a smaller jack so I can get the LH front wheel off to get to the wheel well inner fender bolts. the two pictures immediately below show my struggles in that department.

The way the ting is mangled there is no way to get at it.

And I dont have a lot of clearance for the 3 Ton jack I have.


FOR SALE ONE GENUINE JUNK FENDER! $50 OBRO!


Them thangs are bent reallll bad like.


This view makes me think of it as an open wheel car!


Speaking of racing, lighter is faster right?


ATTN: Mike 96Slowss what do you think about grafting a piece of a decent door skin onto this otherwise good door?


Need a bit of welding for the next fender to have the bottom mount properly installed, other side might not be as bad, but then again I haven't gotten the fender off yet.



Plenty more where that came from! Stay tuned!

Way to go, Matt!!!

I still say a 9c1 frame/roller swap is in your future!

Good job meng. I'm starting to think that every car that was ever in New England has a rust issue. Is the red 2dr rusted there? Maybe cut out a patch?

Matt Trakker wrote:

Good job meng. I'm starting to think that every car that was ever in New England has a rust issue.

I thought cars come from the factory like that?

Matt, I have 4 15" 1984 Z28 wheels if you need them. In good shape, prob need to swap paint. They are dark maroon.

toomanytoyz wrote:

Way to go, Matt!!!

I still say a 9c1 frame/roller swap is in your future!

Find me a southern/western one for under 800ish then we will talk!

Tomz9C1 wrote:

Matt, I have 4 15" 1984 Z28 wheels if you need them. In good shape, prob need to swap paint. They are dark maroon.

I'd have to think about that later. Probably after the new frame and this body get hitched! Then again I'd only need one. I'll keep it in mind.

Matt Trakker wrote:

Good job meng. I'm starting to think that every car that was ever in New England has a rust issue. Is the red 2dr rusted there? Maybe cut out a patch?

If it isn't then only the pass. side would be good. The drivers side must have spent time facing the street or something, every piece of the rocker there is just gone lol!

Hard to really tell to be honest:

This view gives me a more positive vibe. I'll have to check that out!

DAMN! I wish blue interiors went with Garnet Red! I'd love to have this again!

So hold on, who else thinks that this looks really effing good??

I know where the Tires are going in the Summer, but I wish the wheels would work too!

Anyway! Heres what I'm looking at now!


Forgot to do a close up, but this side looks a lot better, and whaddaya know! The cowl is intouched from the accident! Best news of the day right there!




I need these trim clips, un broken. Where do I find them???


Hey caprice, guess what nasty crusty cracked sneakers you have to wear again!

Sorry car!

Looks awesome right here! Too bad I know what the front looks like!


Oh Well! Getting there, slowly but surely!

She moves to her winter home next weekend!

OH and BTW That factory Jack that was NEVER USED works awesome! Best thing I've used TBH. Way to go GM!

Keep at it!

Auto Vehicle Company (Au-Ve-Co) should have those clips, but they want like 10 bucks just for the catalog, lol.

I'm sure you can find those things online someplace though. Google!

Its good to see someone tackling such a worthwhile project, whose heart is in the right place and who also has his head screwed on straight.

You obviously grasp the scale of this undertaking.

Do you have a game plan yet? I would love to see the plan outlined comprehensively here so that I might have an opportunity to contribute "my two cents" here and there.

I hope you can make this project wind up with a 9C1 chassis and power-team at the very least.

I don't know your budget, but perhaps one of my 9C1s might find a nice home under your two door.

This black car in front is an 89 unmarked Pennsylvania 9C1 and the brown one behind is a 90 9C1, also from the same state.

Both cars run strong, but one has an open brake line, detached front bumper and a water leak over the driver's seat.

Matt Trakker wrote:

Auto Vehicle Company (Au-Ve-Co) should have those clips, but they want like 10 bucks just for the catalog, lol.

I'm sure you can find those things online someplace though. Google!

Oh god! Well, atleast I wont have to buy them until I paint it...in a zillion years!

Machine-De-Zine wrote:

Its good to see someone tackling such a worthwhile project, whose heart is in the right place and who also has his head screwed on straight.

You obviously grasp the scale of this undertaking.

Do you have a game plan yet? I would love to see the plan outlined comprehensively here so that I might have an opportunity to contribute "my two cents" here and there.

I hope you can make this project wind up with a 9C1 chassis and power-team at the very least.

I don't know your budget, but perhaps one of my 9C1s might find a nice home under your two door.

This black car in front is an 89 unmarked Pennsylvania 9C1 and the brown one behind is a 90 9C1, also from the same state.

Both cars run strong, but one has an open brake line, detached front bumper and a water leak over the driver's seat.

Oh don't worry I know it is going to be a big one, Have to outline a full game plan.

As of right now the plan was/is

Strip the front end sheet metal, move the car into the tent garage, put it up on blocks, pull the motor/trans, start to separate the body and frame, haul the junk frame out while taking any worth while pieces off to stash away, and tackle any under body rust.

THEN pull the body and any usable parts off the red 84 two door, make sure the frame is solid, if it is solid I will strip the frame and sandblast it and use some sort of rust paint such as POR 15, top coat it with a HD gloss black, ALL NEW 9C1 front suspension, new fuel/brake/trans lines, rear Hotchkis or maybe just stock 9C1 stuff. Everything will be rust proofed/protected even though it will never see winter. I'm using the Energy Suspension BLACK body mounts. Pretty sure I want the 2nd mounts on the forward 3 positions too.

For running gear, I will be using my rebuilt 700R4 with a shift kit in it, Most likely building a 355 out of my 87L98 350 block from an IROC camaro. Stock bottom end, over bore pistons, Vortech heads and edlebrock RPM manifold. Not sure for carb yet, either my 1406 or a Holley 700CM DP. This is an area where I WANT/NEED your 0.02 because I would like to build a decent runner for this car.

I plan on running a posi 3.73 rear gear as well.

Thats just a rough sketch really. Didn't mention the body work that will have to be done! Let me know what you think! All the other guys can too.

Having done this to several A, G, F & B bodies, I think you may find the following path ahead of you.

Every car is different, and each has it's own peculiar issues as well as strong points.

Knowing what NOT to do is at least equally as valuable as knowing what TO do, moving forward.

Exercise restraint while removing body mount bolts, haste will likely shear off many, causing you extra work later.

Some bolts will be impossible to NOT break, due to severe rust thinning hidden inside the mount shell.

Every problem is solvable, but at some cost in dollars and time.

After being separated and stripped, completely, chassis should be blasted by some local outfit that sand blasts cement trucks.

This should cost around $100-$150, then inspect the frame meticulously for cracks and rust thinning.

Spots to look for are cracks where the side "C"channels are welded into the front and rear box sections.

Thinning is common anywhere behind the rear axle and the area that the rubber mounts rest on the frame, particularly the two under the A/C box (from condensation).

If found, all of this is easy to repair using any "buzz-box" welder and some 5/32" 6013 rods & some 1/8" hot-rolled steel sheet with 1.5" holes pre-drilled to reconstruct the rotted out body-mount locations.

POR-15 is very hard and glossy, its tricky to get the surface to accept most second layers, and its surprisingly difficult to scuff-up a toothy surface with sandpaper, but it is doable.

I painted my last chassis with grey POR-15, followed by a thorough scuffing and then applied black urethane bed-liner.

Spent a week of all possible spare time preparing the underside of the body, from the cowl to the rear of the trunk pan, and thats with no holes to fill or other body work to do!

Next time I will consider using/buying/building an auto-rotisserie, , , never used one but I have witnessed the ease that it affords to several associates I've worked with in the past.

Heres a tool I just purchased Friday, and Made in the USA too! You will need one soon, my old one "the beast" is available if you need it.


Here are some photos of my white 88 Caprice. I have done to this car exactly that which you are beginning to do to yours now.


Here you can see how the black bed-liner looks on the POR-15 chassis, but you can also see how I reinforced the side rails with "L"iron and 3" x 3/16" C/R flat-stock.


If you look at the brown "goo" on all the bolts, thats just the Mercury marine perfect seal corrosion preventative, (and NO, I don't care who thinks its ugly, its worth it!)


I used POR-15 under the floor-pan followed by white urethane bed-liner.

Machine-De-Zine wrote:

Having done this to several A, G, F & B bodies, I think you may find the following path ahead of you.

Every car is different, and each has it's own peculiar issues as well as strong points.

Knowing what NOT to do is at least equally as valuable as knowing what TO do, moving forward.

Exercise restraint while removing body mount bolts, haste will likely shear off many, causing you extra work later.

Some bolts will be impossible to NOT break, due to severe rust thinning hidden inside the mount shell.

Every problem is solvable, but at some cost in dollars and time.

After being separated and stripped, completely, chassis should be blasted by some local outfit that sand blasts cement trucks.

This should cost around $100-$150, then inspect the frame meticulously for cracks and rust thinning.

Spots to look for are cracks where the side "C"channels are welded into the front and rear box sections.

Thinning is common anywhere behind the rear axle and the area that the rubber mounts rest on the frame, particularly the two under the A/C box (from condensation).

If found, all of this is easy to repair using any "buzz-box" welder and some 5/32" 6013 rods & some 1/8" hot-rolled steel sheet with 1.5" holes pre-drilled to reconstruct the rotted out body-mount locations.

POR-15 is very hard and glossy, its tricky to get the surface to accept most second layers, and its surprisingly difficult to scuff-up a toothy surface with sandpaper, but it is doable.

I painted my last chassis with grey POR-15, followed by a thorough scuffing and then applied black urethane bed-liner.

Spent a week of all possible spare time preparing the underside of the body, from the cowl to the rear of the trunk pan, and thats with no holes to fill or other body work to do!

Next time I will consider using/buying/building an auto-rotisserie, , , never used one but I have witnessed the ease that it affords to several associates I've worked with in the past.

Heres a tool I just purchased Friday, and Made in the USA too! You will need one soon, my old one "the beast" is available if you need it.


Here are some photos of my white 88 Caprice. I have done to this car exactly that which you are beginning to do to yours now.


Here you can see how the black bed-liner looks on the POR-15 chassis, but you can also see how I reinforced the side rails with "L"iron and 3" x 3/16" C/R flat-stock.


If you look at the brown "goo" on all the bolts, thats just the Mercury marine perfect seal corrosion preventative, (and NO, I don't care who thinks its ugly, its worth it!)


I used POR-15 under the floor-pan followed by white urethane bed-liner.

Well, I know who I'll be copying now! How has the bed liner held up down there. I think I would have a best bet stripping off the factory under coating and starting fresh and painting it all with the POR-15, possibly bed lineing it like that too.

My father knows someone who does sandblasting like that and I will probably have him do the frame. Maybe I can get that cost cut down a bit too!

I would like to make sure that nothing even has a chance to rust, so I like the idea of coating everything.

As for the body bolts, Steve(sdstick) showed me a lot of the trouble areas and how to get around a broken cage nut, hopefully the ones he showed me will be the only ones that break, better yet how about they dont break! I'm sure one or two HAVE to give me trouble though, if that doesn't happen I would be very surprised.

I will practice how careful I can be one the red car as the body wont matter too much, though I will be harvesting whatever I can from it. Another big question I had was one about the metal collars that go into the body mounts. I'm certain someone has already told me where to find them, but I have forgotten. I would need all of them, as well as new bolts, but I believe that the bolts would be easier to get my hands on.


I can't wait to see some more serious progress on this thing! Thanks for the support/advice guys.

1984twodoor wrote:

I need these trim clips, un broken. Where do I find them???

Would they be the same on a sedan? If so Both JY's near me have boxies and I know one had a decent front clip. Time I think, for that JY run

Cadet57 wrote:

1984twodoor wrote:

I need these trim clips, un broken. Where do I find them???

Would they be the same on a sedan? If so Both JY's near me have boxies and I know one had a decent front clip. Time I think, for that JY run

I use Albert Kemperle for all these clips. Just about every thing you will need is available new by the box or by the piece, fairly cheap.

As mentioned earlier, Au-Ve-Co is a good source. http://www.auveco.com/product/index.html

These items are generally speaking automotive industry standards. They are used on all brands & models of American cars, only a few items are brand specific though.

At any good auto paint supply house, there will likely be a huge board with all the hardware examples permanently mounted, accompanied by a small part# tag.

When I am concerned with getting the car back together as close to original as possible I get boxes or sheets of heavy cardboard.

I then draw a small crude diagram right on the cardboard, laying out the locations of all fasteners.

I punch holes in the cardboard and insert the hardware into location specific holes and magic-marker in any notes as to it's orientation or what part is on top or bottom.

Also I have been in the habit of inserting bolts back into their exact locations after component removal, this takes a lot of guess work out of future organizing efforts.

For example: Remove the steering gear-box and immediately screw the mounting bolts into the box itself. Clean and restore later in an organized process.

Also you will do well to take MANY digital photos of the disassembly process, as these will become incredibly valuable upon re-assembly.

Set the date encoding on your camera to help archive your data, this will also greatly help later when you've forgotten in what sequence everything occurred.

Take photos of any hardware that has you stumped, post them here and many of us will gladly join in an effort to find you a match.

Just so you remember
Sleeve is 6262234 QTY 10 req'd
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-GM-1991-93-Chevy-Caprice-Body-bolt-spacer-6262234-?cmd=ViewItem&item=110644548585&vxp=mtr

Below is Vintage Parts (OUCH....$22.47ea)
Phone 1.877.846.8243 | Fax 1.800.368.8822 | info@vpartsinc.com
Mon-Fri 7am - 7pm, Saturday 7:30am - 1:30pm (CST)
MO-FR 8.30 to 17.00 (CET) Parts Locator
Search results for
GM/ACDELCO AUTO PARTS - 6262234OEM Part # Description Weight Qty
GM/ACDELCO AUTO PARTS 6262234 SPACER WT= 0.3LBs QTY Available= 34


Pos 1,2,4&6 Bolt is 3524497 (sold in packs of 5)
http://www.gmpartsgiant.com/components/1987-chevrolet-caprice~body-mounting-1b090010109-lr9md81bl35.html

Pos 2 is 14065301 or 3528567 (cant remeber but I'll check my slips
I also have some leftovers so hold up on pos 2 I must have extras
\Keep collecting info

Machine-De-Zine wrote:

Cadet57 wrote:

1984twodoor wrote:

I need these trim clips, un broken. Where do I find them???

Would they be the same on a sedan? If so Both JY's near me have boxies and I know one had a decent front clip. Time I think, for that JY run

I use Albert Kemperle for all these clips. Just about every thing you will need is available new by the box or by the piece, fairly cheap.

As mentioned earlier, Au-Ve-Co is a good source. http://www.auveco.com/product/index.html

These items are generally speaking automotive industry standards. They are used on all brands & models of American cars, only a few items are brand specific though.

At any good auto paint supply house, there will likely be a huge board with all the hardware examples permanently mounted, accompanied by a small part# tag.

When I am concerned with getting the car back together as close to original as possible I get boxes or sheets of heavy cardboard.

I then draw a small crude diagram right on the cardboard, laying out the locations of all fasteners.

I punch holes in the cardboard and insert the hardware into location specific holes and magic-marker in any notes as to it's orientation or what part is on top or bottom.

Also I have been in the habit of inserting bolts back into their exact locations after component removal, this takes a lot of guess work out of future organizing efforts.

For example: Remove the steering gear-box and immediately screw the mounting bolts into the box itself. Clean and restore later in an organized process.

Also you will do well to take MANY digital photos of the disassembly process, as these will become incredibly valuable upon re-assembly.

Set the date encoding on your camera to help archive your data, this will also greatly help later when you've forgotten in what sequence everything occurred.

Take photos of any hardware that has you stumped, post them here and many of us will gladly join in an effort to find you a match.

Justin, the problem is that these are plastic and I'm shocked that one didnt break when I took that piece of trim off, if I tried to get the clip itself off it would be in a few separate pieces. Glen, I will be looking into those parts sources for the clips, thank you!

I have been using the camera for the disassembly, mostly to sort out the wiring to know what goes where as it gets pushed towards the cowl. I will probably do the take off and put the bolts back in system when I take apart the red front end as I will be using that one, the white one had to come off in whatever way i could! getting at some bolts wasn't always an option, so the saw was employed!

sdstick wrote:

Just so you remember
Sleeve is 6262234 QTY 10 req'd
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-GM-1991-93-Chevy-Caprice-Body-bolt-spacer-6262234-?cmd=ViewItem&item=110644548585&vxp=mtr

Below is Vintage Parts (OUCH....$12.47ea)
Phone 1.877.846.8243 | Fax 1.800.368.8822 | info@vpartsinc.com
Mon-Fri 7am - 7pm, Saturday 7:30am - 1:30pm (CST)
MO-FR 8.30 to 17.00 (CET) Parts Locator
Search results for
GM/ACDELCO AUTO PARTS - 6262234OEM Part # Description Weight Qty
GM/ACDELCO AUTO PARTS 6262234 SPACER WT= 0.3LBs QTY Available= 34


Pos 1,2,4&6 Bolt is 3524497 (sold in packs of 5)
http://www.gmpartsgiant.com/components/1987-chevrolet-caprice~body-mounting-1b090010109-lr9md81bl35.html

Pos 2 is 14065301 or 3528567 (cant remeber but I'll check my slips
I also have some leftovers so hold up on pos 2 I must have extras
\Keep collecting info

Yeesh! S*^% gets expensive! But hey, it is so worth it!

Looks like I will have to jump on them as the availability is slim. So do I only need these for positions 1,2,4 and 6? I was under the impression that all positions 1-7 had them. I'm sure someone will clear that up before I have a chance to check the FSM. I feel like I should be buying the 10 sleeves you said that I need right now!

I would like to get the harder to find parts A.S.A.P. Motor and tranny parts will be around forever, but I feel some of these things wont be.

A few new pics of things I haven't seen in quite some time, thing's I'd never thought I'd see, and things I'd rather not see again! But all of these pics point to one thing! Progress!

It's been FOREVER since I've seen those bushes! And too long since I've seen that view out of a windshield, sucks I have to wait to see road in front of me though!



Never thought I'd see or do this!


Didn't think this would ever be seen either!


And now...stuff I get scared to think about! Like this dent!


The worse part is this picture, shoulder feels right at home in there! I owe someone a BIG favor after walking away with just a minor injury! Just a few feet farther back.....


Well, that's all for today! Now that shes inside I've got to grab a small electric heater and get to work! Gonna be...ah...fun out there in the cold.....maybe I'll take a break come really cold weather!

Looking good, keep up the good work, the project should be a worthy endeavor.

I have a nice impala frame and runner gear that would be right at home under that baby...

Doug

Matt, you're doing a hell of a job! I don't know that I'd have cojones to get into such a project. Props to you!

Pooge wrote:

Looking good, keep up the good work, the project should be a worthy endeavor.

I have a nice impala frame and runner gear that would be right at home under that baby...

Doug

It's a hell of an idea Doug! If the red caprice's frame isn't good then I'll go that route, but for now I think I'm sticking old school!

toomanytoyz wrote:

Matt, you're doing a hell of a job! I don't know that I'd have cojones to get into such a project. Props to you!

Really? I know its a big project but it seems like something common, maybe I'm reading too many Hemmings Muscle Machines restoration profiles!? If that's the case it can only help me right?

I'm doing it for the "fun" of it, plus, I don't want to have to search for another clean two door!

TBH the biggest problem with this resto is the beautiful LT1 Z28 down the street from my house on TT2s! Black with a stinger hood! UGH! I'm being tempted!!!!! It's for sale! Anyone want pics!?

Pooge wrote:

Looking good, keep up the good work, the project should be a worthy endeavor.

I have a nice impala frame and runner gear that would be right at home under that baby...

Doug

Chris McCabe has done the LT1 drivetrain under a boxy twice. The second one was with the whole frame. That is what I would do. You will love your Box even more.
Scroll down. Two door to boot.
https://badass-of-ne.forumotion.com/t121-post-pics-of-your-b-or-d-bodys
https://badass-of-ne.forumotion.com/t383-bump-stop-question#3925

OK, It's push Matt in a different direction time....

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=247963

You think you love your box now?

Think of the extra stories when you pop the hood on an LT1

You guys suck!

Maybe...ugh as if I don't have enough things to think about!

1984twodoor wrote:

You guys suck!

Maybe...ugh as if I don't have enough things to think about!

.... you need to drive an LT1 car...... what you doing sat.? ..... ill let you beat the lac up and you can see what we are all talking about.

.... I ran 307 and 305 motors for a long time, yes they are good motors but nothing like an LT1 , im dreading the fact my winter lac is a 305 car

1984twodoor wrote:

You guys suck!

Your right Matt.....they do suck...wait what? ...

bowtiepimp wrote:

1984twodoor wrote:

You guys suck!

Maybe...ugh as if I don't have enough things to think about!

.... you need to drive an LT1 car...... what you doing sat.? ..... ill let you beat the lac up and you can see what we are all talking about.

.... I ran 307 and 305 motors for a long time, yes they are good motors but nothing like an LT1 , im dreading the fact my winter lac is a 305 car

That's what everyone has been telling me. I can't Saturday though, or Sunday. Maybe sometime next weekend or something.


The only problem with that is it would be another cost. Hmm, well I guess I will have to see now wont I? You guys make this a hard choice! A thinker for sure, but for now I have to focus on getting a few of the body bolts cracked.

Well, I jacked her up today on some jack stands, probably staying like that all winter... But hey it means little by little more forward progress! Some pics of the under carriage (some=21 LOL) So heres a few reasons why I am so #*()*@#()@*#@)*(&%@*()$&@)*(#@)&@_)*&@#@#(@_)($@)(*#&@)(#*@#)*(&@#)(@*#_)*&#@)*(&$@_ PISSED! about this situation!


On the other hand...I am glad I'm doing this to such a worthy body! Here we go!

[
Real men use pink jack stands!

Any of that crus you see isn't rust, its all mud from a puddle a few days before the accident, never washed it!

Really need the new cushions huh?

gonna start drenching them in WD40, trying to get back to Hooksett to get a gallon of the junk!

inside the frame where the box section begins in the rear on the drivers side, pretty clean for an 87 on an uncoated area huh?

Above the tranny....I almost ate dinner off of this...

Right below the cowl at the seam, plan on fixing when motor is out.



pass. side body mount, pos # 3 if i'm not mistaken...I might grab a set of those grip-tite sockets or whatever they are.

Inside of the C rail pass. side....its getting painful!!!UGH!

Space between the heat shield for the muffler and un-coated body, looks clean from here but I'll know more when I pull that all off.

Immediately in front of the tank

Shock mount, upper, pass side


Tanks straps need some attention at some point soon! Might be easier to do a fuel cell!


Driver side is worse...


The seams look similar to this in some ares, some other spots look untouched.


Keep in mind as you look at these pics....this car was built in Canada, sold in NH and lived there until August 2010...

SCORE!

I'm getting more and more excited as each day passes!

Though I am torn on the LT1/Impala frame option....that's a real thinker for this winter...

**Add on***

I have a gas tank for a 96 available and also a couple bins of engine parts for lt1 blocks if you go that route. I'm really missing my box. If I was to do another one I would do the lt1 swap. It's easier than you think. And especially easy with the front clip off! I have a complete wire harness for a 96 (can be modded to work 94/95 also) and a 96 PCM. Juuuuuuuust saying'. I could wire it up to be a stand alone harness for you if needed with taped on labels on what to connect each of the few wires to (not many) You know where to find me

UGH I may be doing the LT1 route...DAMMIT!

If I do, I would HAVE to build a 383 though


its a real thinker. Biggest con is I can't use my Camaro wheels dude! WTF haha!


I will be thinking about this, LT1 guys, don't be surprised if you get tons of PMs!

Swap spindles and the rear axle if your gonna do a frame/drivetrain from a 94-96. Otherwise just drop the lt1 into a box frame, why are you completely removing the body? Is the frame bad all the way under the firewall? Can't cut the frame and weld in a new piece from a donor? Say from a little in front of the firewall and forward?

Ironfistdog wrote:

Swap spindles and the rear axle if your gonna do a frame/drivetrain from a 94-96. Otherwise just drop the lt1 into a box frame, why are you completely removing the body? Is the frame bad all the way under the firewall? Can't cut the frame and weld in a new piece from a donor? Say from a little in front of the firewall and forward?

Well, this above is one reason, another reason is I already have the replacement mounts. I would never want to put all of this work and time and $$$ into a welded up frame, if it could work then I can see it as ok, but this isn't a rat rod so I dont want a patched together frame, I would much rather do everything right and do a full resto. If I don't do this now, I will be doing it in ten years or more and there will be more problems also.

Another thing that puts an N.O. on cut and welding in would be the bend in the frame after pos#'s 1 & 2. I would have to weld at pos # 3, kind of a mid point in the frame. I'm no chassis designer but to me that screams bad idea.

I would rather do the frame-off because everything can be fresh, either if I decide to 5X5 or a 5X4.75 bolt circle everything can be brand spankin new and fresh. If I do this, I want a new car! Just without buying a new car.

Rat rods have nothing to do with welding frames to fix them. Your chassis came from the factory piecemealed together. It's not like it's a continuous piece of metal. The rails maybe most of the way, but not every pieces is molded/bent. There are a ton of welds there. I look at it as: if the 87 had a pretty mint frame and it was only the front 3-4 feet smashed/bent why not cut the parts of the frame you need from another caprice (I believe even the 91-96 frames are the same) and GRAPH not patch it to the front. you could also plate it for added strength all around. If I especially if you are gonna put a monster under the hood..... Nothing wrong with re-enforcing the frame. They are designed to rust away..., that's the gimmick. It doesnt have to look like a hack job if someone who knows what they are doing is welding it. it's just an option/opinion. Either way the car will be nice when done. It's just a major undertaking that maybe could avoid having to strip 2 cars.. I'm not looking at the car so the frame could be absolute rusty toast under there. you can still do mounts by just lifting up the car and not having to take apart both is what I'm saying.

Ironfistdog wrote:

Rat rods have nothing to do with welding frames to fix them. Your chassis came from the factory piecemealed together. It's not like it's a continuous piece of metal. The rails maybe most of the way, but not every pieces is molded/bent. There are a ton of welds there. I look at it as: if the 87 had a pretty mint frame and it was only the front 3-4 feet smashed/bent why not cut the parts of the frame you need from another caprice (I believe even the 91-96 frames are the same) and GRAPH not patch it to the front. you could also plate it for added strength all around. If I especially if you are gonna put a monster under the hood..... Nothing wrong with re-enforcing the frame. They are designed to rust away..., that's the gimmick. It doesnt have to look like a hack job if someone who knows what they are doing is welding it. it's just an option/opinion. Either way the car will be nice when done. It's just a major undertaking that maybe could avoid having to strip 2 cars.. I'm not looking at the car so the frame could be absolute rusty toast under there. you can still do mounts by just lifting up the car and not having to take apart both is what I'm saying.

Indy I respect and understand your opinion and the option you just described, trust me I do. One guy (not here) told me to heat up the bent frame and bang it back...he was looking right at it too. That opinion/option was something I wouldn't even try to consider!

Grafting the front of one frame to another and plating it would work like you said, but I just don't feel as if I would want to do that. The other two door has to be stripped and scrapped anyway, so if the frame is good, why wouldn't I use it right? If I wanted re-enforcement in it I would do what Machine-De-Zine did with his caprice and box the frame. Doug mentioned an available Impala frame and LT1 which got the wheels turning on that idea. I am not so sure I'd want to make this car an LT1 though, if I did end up ditching the "old school" small block why wouldn't I up it to LS power? Right? That would make even more sense.

To me swapping the frames just seems to make the most sense and seem like the most hassle free way to go about the whole repair. No way will be EASY what-so-ever, I came to that conclusion the day after my accident when I was looking at the car thinking about what I wanted to do with it. If the frame I already have is good, I'll use that and use either a 355 or 383 carb'd. If I get an Impala frame with four wheel disc and harness for an LT1 then I would either use a low mile LT1 or build a stroker LT1. OR I would try and grab a low mile LS motor either an LQ9 or 5.3L from a truck.

In all honesty, I hope that my 84s frame is worthy so that I can just run that and a traditional SBC with a carb. having thought about the welded frame since my last post, I don't think I want to do that. My final choice for this rebuild will be a full frame off as it just makes more sense to me. Sorry if I did offend you with the previous post, I didn't mean to at all!

I knew as I was typing that you'd think I was upset. Lol. I wasnt. And wven if i was tough shit....It's ur project. No one can tell you what to do. I wanna see this beast on the road! Id just hate to see you get too deep and drown. I have full confidence in you though!

If red riding hood is getting chopped up then maybe it would be easier to build the frame wit drivetrain and jar have a mod day and just have 4 or 5 ppl help you roll the built chassis under the body.

Speaking of rat rod's don't forget to list the bent frame on craigslist, ppl like me are always looking for full size frames to build shit on. Make a little $$$$

Ironfistdog wrote:

I knew as I was typing that you'd think I was upset. Lol. I wasnt. And wven if i was tough shit....It's ur project. No one can tell you what to do. I wanna see this beast on the road! Id just hate to see you get too deep and drown. I have full confidence in you though!

If red riding hood is getting chopped up then maybe it would be easier to build the frame wit drivetrain and jar have a mod day and just have 4 or 5 ppl help you roll the built chassis under the body.

Speaking of rat rod's don't forget to list the bent frame on craigslist, ppl like me are always looking for full size frames to build shit on. Make a little $$$$

Glad you weren't actually upset! I was worried about that, I try not to step on anyone's toes. This isn't the big board ya know!

If I did list the frame I'd only have it up for a week, planned on scrapping a lot of the stuff to get it out of the yard. But that is another though!

That is exactly what I was thinking about doing too! I was going to use my 350 and build the motor up then completely go through, blast/paint/new parts the frame this summer. Just roll er under the white body after the under carriage is prepped and POR-15'd.

Well, I did the most nerve wracking thing I have ever done today! Removed my first body bolt! IT WENT PERFECTLY! I really really really really hope the next 13 go as smooth....I doubt it

Here are the pics of that! I've since covered the vacant hole in oil and hit all of the other bolts with a good loooooong squirting of penetrating lube. Hopefully I can start to crack a few each day! But if I am not in the right mood I just wont do it! Plain and simple. I don't want to blow off steam by working on this section of the car! Some more frame pictures added in too.

Hard to tell but that is all DIRT! and rust and grime from the past 25 years.....YUCK! In the eyes, I got the goggles right after this

Lower bushing marked White & Blue


Tharrr she blows! The first hole exposed!

This bolt might be a re-usable candidate



All in all this sums up a successful day!

Good to hear of your success! Keep hammerin' away and it'll be done in no time!

MASShole9C1 wrote:

Good to hear of your success! Keep hammerin' away and it'll be done in no time!

Thanks! No time sure is a long time though! The true goal is a roller by next august. Lets see how that works out!

Heres some more pics for you to look at....or not look at because its really just bolt porn at this point...

LH pos # 4




LH pos # 3

dang washer fell out!


Clean bolt though


Well more to come as it comes!

Nice!
Unfortunately no penetrating oil will hit the mark unless you drill.
Good news is, it doesnt look like you'll have to.
No curse...no curse...

sdstick wrote:

Nice!
Unfortunately no penetrating oil will hit the mark unless you drill.
Good news is, it doesnt look like you'll have to.
No curse...no curse...

Yeah I've noticed that! Hey you have to try everything at least once right? well...maybe not EVERYTHING

You better not curse me! I came in the house today and told my mom and she responded with "wow you're moving right along huh?" I bet I spin all of the remaining now!

But I hope that doesn't happen!

Look at all of the DIRT AND RUST! Thank god that wasn't in my eyes!!!

Seeing pics like these^^^means only one thing! Progress!

Ones like these down here mean Anger!

At least I can get to this one. Glad it wasn't a hidden one!

The bolt from the pos # 2 on the drivers side (side of impact) was bent, I think it's safe to say this # 1 that is giving me trouble is also bent Weeeelll fix er up though!

Don't know if ya got most of ya parts but i just seen this on CL.

http://southcoast.craigslist.org/cto/2679660083.html

mega wrote:

Don't know if ya got most of ya parts but i just seen this on CL.

http://southcoast.craigslist.org/cto/2679660083.html

I saw that one the other night actually. But any of the parts on that I already had, bought them already, or have them spoken for and waiting for me at the next club meet. Oh well.

Too bad cus a woodgrain two door would be awesome!

I never wanted this day to come

But I'm glad I will be using most of this car in the future and the rest of the good parts I'll save for a rainy day. Anyway I had to take a few last shots of this car! Here ya go, something to kill a few minutes with












More waves than the friggen ocean!




Hmmmm I still kind of want to use this again!