car won't start. starter clicking LOUDLY

not sure what's going on here... in all my other cars, it's the solenoid when this happens.
I'd love to check my wires, but my hood won't pop now either...
blech.

chapel wrote:

not sure what's going on here... in all my other cars, it's the solenoid when this happens.
I'd love to check my wires, but my hood won't pop now either...
blech.

Turn on your headlights, and see if they dim or go out while you rotate the ign. key to the crank position.

Charge up and then load test your battery.

Check your starting circuit harness, particularly the heavy battery cables and the fusible link/s, both the (+) positive & (-) ground.

Often a marginal connection there will carry low current (lights) but may "go dead" upon a heavy load like cranking.

If this does not uncover your problem, and you do not have access to an FSM, I will be happy to guide you through.

Thanks to Cadet57 for finding this site. http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm_starter_4.3L_5.0L_5.7L/no_crank_test_1.php

Tell me the year and engine in your car to help pinpoint exactly which starting system you have.

I assume you have tried to flat palm "thump" your hood just to the right of the hood ornament after pulling the hood release lever.

Be careful, my hood is all dented down where some ham-fisted individual had done this WAY too hard before I bought my car.

it normally pops, but I think it needs cleaning.
no more light tonight, gonna have to wait til next weekend (which sucks). I never get home during daylight hours anymore

typical b-body hood. Just hit it a couple times with your fist. Not to hard, and use the bottom of your fist. Some light taps will release it.

oh ok. thanks.

"The Fonz"

I really need to invest in a jump pack...

toomanytoyz wrote:

"The Fonz"

Yes exactly! But without the juke box.

In IT we call it a 'technical tap'
in engineering, we call it 'percussive maintenance'

chapel wrote:

In IT we call it a 'technical tap'
in engineering, we call it 'percussive maintenance'

Did you technical tap the starter with a BFwrench and the booster cables hooked up?

no, I haven't had a chance to get the hood open yet, and I don't have a jump pack or any jumper cables... waiting for my friend to come over with his jump pack.

Not sure where my jumper cables went...

Ok, so...
the battery might be low... we tried a jump pack, and still had no-start. Everytime I try to start it, I get a click click click... then afterwards, that stupid air pump for the shocks runs for like 2-3 minutes.
Now the battery is fully dead.

is there a fuse I can pull to kill the air pump for the shocks until I fix this no-start?
we hit the solenoid on the starter to no avail too.

I might end up having this towed to a shop for repair. I don't have a free weekend on my schedule for a few weeks now... and it's too cold to work outside down here...

We replaced that starter when we did te tune up, don't have it towex id definitely start by putting a new battery in it.

96Brougham wrote:

We replaced that starter when we did te tune up, don't have it towex id definitely start by putting a new battery in it.

I need to get your email. Thanks for that. I'll start with the battery.

could you send me your service history on it? I meant to grab a copy of those receipts you showed me.

Just grab an Everstart Maxx battery at Wal-Fart, then clean the stupid screw in GM style terminals really well, and put Vaseline on them when you reinstall using a side terminal wrench or box end ratchet type wrench (or very carefully with another type of wrench) so you don't round off the terminals. Really sounds like a dead battery. The one in my Impala started to go a couple weeks ago, had the headlights on without it running for only a couple minutes and then it didn't start. Put a new battery in it and no problems.

Matt Trakker wrote:

Just grab an Everstart Maxx battery at Wal-Fart, then clean the stupid screw in GM style terminals really well, and put Vaseline on them when you reinstall using a side terminal wrench or box end ratchet type wrench (or very carefully with another type of wrench) so you don't round off the terminals. Really sounds like a dead battery. The one in my Impala started to go a couple weeks ago, had the headlights on without it running for only a couple minutes and then it didn't start. Put a new battery in it and no problems.

side terminal wrench?
my friend made a comment about the batteries in these being a 'F***ing GM side terminal bulls***' that he had to get a special wrench for.

I'd like to get a really good battery. a lot of my trips are only 1-2 miles, and with that air pump running for 2 minutes at a time everytime I shut the car off, I think it might be a good idea to unplug that pump (or put it on a switch)

I'm showing two battery types for this car: 75 and 78... which one do I use?
the 78 looks bigger
there's also a type 34 listed, but that has top terminals

chapel wrote:

Matt Trakker wrote:

Just grab an Everstart Maxx battery at Wal-Fart, then clean the stupid screw in GM style terminals really well, and put Vaseline on them when you reinstall using a side terminal wrench or box end ratchet type wrench (or very carefully with another type of wrench) so you don't round off the terminals. Really sounds like a dead battery. The one in my Impala started to go a couple weeks ago, had the headlights on without it running for only a couple minutes and then it didn't start. Put a new battery in it and no problems.

side terminal wrench?
my friend made a comment about the batteries in these being a 'F***ing GM side terminal bulls***' that he had to get a special wrench for.

I'd like to get a really good battery. a lot of my trips are only 1-2 miles, and with that air pump running for 2 minutes at a time everytime I shut the car off, I think it might be a good idea to unplug that pump (or put it on a switch)

Yeah, it's like a ratcheting small hex wrench designed for them. You can just use a small Crescent wrench if you don't have one, or if you have mini-sockets then you can use those. Just use care to not round off the screw in terminal bolt thingys.

With a new battery it probably will take care of the air pump killing the old one issue. The Everstart Maxx is a good battery for the price range. I had an Optima Red Top that didn't even last me 3 years, got a free one as a result but for 180 bucks or whatever the stupid thing cost, the Wal-Mart (Johnson Controls) batteries embarassed it. The Maxx one has a good warranty, and if it craps out, you can just take it back and get a new one before the warranty is done...

I was looking at Autozone batteries. I've always used them. The Duralast Golds are like $110 and have an 8year warranty with 800CCAs

looks like the wrench is a 5/16" (I don't have any standard wrenches, guess I'll go get one when I get the battery)
and a wire brush...

Matt Trakker wrote:

chapel wrote:

Matt Trakker wrote:

Just grab an Everstart Maxx battery at Wal-Fart, then clean the stupid screw in GM style terminals really well, and put Vaseline on them when you reinstall using a side terminal wrench or box end ratchet type wrench (or very carefully with another type of wrench) so you don't round off the terminals. Really sounds like a dead battery. The one in my Impala started to go a couple weeks ago, had the headlights on without it running for only a couple minutes and then it didn't start. Put a new battery in it and no problems.

side terminal wrench?
my friend made a comment about the batteries in these being a 'F***ing GM side terminal bulls***' that he had to get a special wrench for.

I'd like to get a really good battery. a lot of my trips are only 1-2 miles, and with that air pump running for 2 minutes at a time everytime I shut the car off, I think it might be a good idea to unplug that pump (or put it on a switch)

Yeah, it's like a ratcheting small hex wrench designed for them. You can just use a small Crescent wrench if you don't have one, or if you have mini-sockets then you can use those. Just use care to not round off the screw in terminal bolt thingys.

With a new battery it probably will take care of the air pump killing the old one issue. The Everstart Maxx is a good battery for the price range. I had an Optima Red Top that didn't even last me 3 years, got a free one as a result but for 180 bucks or whatever the stupid thing cost, the Wal-Mart (Johnson Controls) batteries embarassed it. The Maxx one has a good warranty, and if it craps out, you can just take it back and get a new one before the warranty is done...

chapel wrote:

I was looking at Autozone batteries. I've always used them. The Duralast Golds are like $110 and have an 8year warranty with 800CCAs

looks like the wrench is a 5/16" (I don't have any standard wrenches, guess I'll go get one when I get the battery)
and a wire brush...

Wow! Someones been around German cars too much!!! lol

Grab the ever start of a Die hard, kill them and turn them in right at the end of the warranty. Best system ever!

Replace the S*&T side terminals with the top post conversion things, 8 bucks at napa/AZ/Advanced. If you stick with side post, jam a much larger headed bolt in it. Makes it worth keeping.

BTW alot of those jump packs dont have the ballz to start an LT1
Your right about the battery tho....CCA FTW

chapel wrote:

I was looking at Autozone batteries. I've always used them. The Duralast Golds are like $110 and have an 8year warranty with 800CCAs

looks like the wrench is a 5/16" (I don't have any standard wrenches, guess I'll go get one when I get the battery)
and a wire brush...

the duralast gold is a good battery, mine is almost 4 years old and never a problem. crap jinxed myself lol.

chapel wrote:

I was looking at Autozone batteries. I've always used them. The Duralast Golds are like $110 and have an 8year warranty with 800CCAs

looks like the wrench is a 5/16" (I don't have any standard wrenches, guess I'll go get one when I get the battery)
and a wire brush...

A 5/16" wrench is LESS than 0.0025" smaller than 8mm!

The difference is quite literally the average thickness of a human hair!

In other words, use your 8mm socket or wrench on the Bat Terminal bolt. Just don't put a metric bolt in the battery, it should be 3/8" x 16 TPI.

Most side terminal bolt "strip-outs" are caused by over tightening the bolt, and then further compounded by slightly rounded off threads on the cable bolt.

Replace the bolts when they are worn on the threads, or just buy high quality replacement cables.

Some new batteries have rather poor female threads on their side terminals.


Don't buy a new battery until it has FAILED a competently performed load test, which means you must first properly charge up the battery.

If yours has failed, consider a Bosch Model # 78DT-850B. It has dual terminals (top & side) 1000 ca @ 32-f, 850 cca @ 0-f, 36 mo. free replacement and pro-rated for 96 mo. ($99.99) $5.00 core.

http://www.pepboys.com/catalog/partresult?category=8&group=19&time=1319457440293 - [The second one down the list is the one I like].

My batteries take a ridiculous amount of neglect and/or abuse in my "fleet", and this model battery has proven it's worth WAY above all others. The stainless steel female threads are well made too.

I had an accident in one of my boxies, and that Bosch battery was crushed & trapped in the wreckage, the case was punctured in two places and the top was split along a 6" seam.

Then the car sat through an entire winter/spring, so I figured the battery to be toast! Based on the past record of excellence, I tested it but found it to be stone dead, & almost no electrolite left in it!

The battery was laying nearly on its side all that time, but I sealed it up with some killer glue, added water, charged it back up on my tender, now two years later, it remains a perfect top performer.

I agree with Matt on what a waste of money the red-top Optima battery is, the WORST battery I have ever owned.

There is a very good Booster-Pac >[made in USA]< by Clore Automotive.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015DOMUK/ref=as_li_tf_til?tag=bgna50-20&camp=14573&creative=327641&linkCode=as1&creativeASIN=B0015DOMUK&adid=1QGPG7A8691575F1BD7M&

Jump N Carry X-Force Extreme JNCXFE 146-046-020. By far, the best one Iv'e used or owned.

chapel wrote:

Ok, so...
the battery might be low... we tried a jump pack, and still had no-start.

Did you jump from the battery or the remote jump terminal near the firewall? When mine died, I tried to jump it with a jump pack at the (rusty) battery terminals and couldn't get it going. AAA got it jumped. I hadn't read the manual yet and didn't know about the remote terminal. I replaced the battery, plus the terminals and cables just for the hell of it; six weeks and 2,500 miles later I haven't had a problem.

from the battery.

I think I'll replace the battery anyway.

I think I'm going to get this 'Model 34' battery. It has both top and side posts
Same price as the 78

AdvanceAutoParts is having a sale: 15% off orders over $100 + $50 coupon for future purchase of $100+

chapel wrote:

I think I'm going to get this 'Model 34' battery. It has both top and side posts
Same price as the 78

AdvanceAutoParts is having a sale: 15% off orders over $100 + $50 coupon for future purchase of $100+

Double check, but I dont think batteries and oil are included in that sale.

Cadet57 wrote:

chapel wrote:

I think I'm going to get this 'Model 34' battery. It has both top and side posts
Same price as the 78

AdvanceAutoParts is having a sale: 15% off orders over $100 + $50 coupon for future purchase of $100+

Double check, but I dont think batteries and oil are included in that sale.

I got 15% off

So, I found this:
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=250848

I can yank Fuse 27 to disable the pump when the ignition is off... why would you want the ALC to be on when the car is off? I don't get it?

[quote="chapel"]

I can yank Fuse 27 to disable the pump when the ignition is off... why would you want the ALC to be on when the car is off? I don't get it?[/quote

Because when you first shut the car off it "resets" the suspension to stock height if needed.

oh... well... I'd rather have a fresh battery going into the cold weather and taking such short trips.

chapel wrote:

oh... well... I'd rather have a fresh battery going into the cold weather and taking such short trips.

Just take it out for a weekly beating and keep the juices flowing and the systems charged up

new battery fixed it
removed fuse 27 too. no more pump running after the car is shut off.

gonna see if the old battery is any good. Anyone need a battery if it is?


that drop light is awesome, btw... I gotta buy one.

chapel wrote:

new battery fixed it
removed fuse 27 too. no more pump running after the car is shut off.

gonna see if the old battery is any good. Anyone need a battery if it is?


that drop light is awesome, btw... I gotta buy one.

Damn! That is a sweet drop light!

it's two pieces:
the drop light with hooks on it
and then there's this thing called a Light Perch:
http://www.amazon.com/Central-Tools-Lighting-13003-LightPerch/dp/B0002WSDJG/ref=pd_sxp_f_i

it's two spring loaded hooks that hook to the hood:



it's pretty awesome. Not cheap though

chapel wrote:

it's two pieces:
the drop light with hooks on it
and then there's this thing called a Light Perch:
http://www.amazon.com/Central-Tools-Lighting-13003-LightPerch/dp/B0002WSDJG/ref=pd_sxp_f_i

it's two spring loaded hooks that hook to the hood:



it's pretty awesome. Not cheap though

I'll stick with the cheapies!

More importantly whos wagon?

lol. I didn't even notice that
those were just photos I found on amazon.

chapel wrote:

lol. I didn't even notice that
those were just photos I found on amazon.

DAMN! Oh well!

I have a LED light bar from HF that works nice, rechargeable one. Only snag is the weight of it makes it hard for the magnet to hold, and the hook doesn't offer a lot of places to hook into. Great flashlight for my shed with no lights/power in it!