The SSheriff (1996 9C1)

That town line picture is SWEEEEEEET!

  

Indeed! Inspired by the pic below. Too bad my pic(s) is a crappy cell phone pic.

I like that pic because it reminds me of springtime, haha.

Matt Trakker wrote:

I like that pic because it reminds me of springtime, haha.

Ahhhhh I know, right? I still haven't fixed the heat in the Roadmaster yet. It's like driving a seat side bruins hockey game around. Waiting for the Zamboni to clear my windshield ovah heeyah.

An ISSF member shopped the push bar on, he was too excited to do that, so I had him do the rims black too

Anybody make 17" white letter tires???

MASShole9C1 wrote:

An ISSF member shopped the push bar on, he was too excited to do that, so I had him do the rims black too

Anybody make 17" white letter tires???

Yeah! But they're all LT off roads...

I have seen the new camaros with 18 BFG radial T/As but none have been RWL

Not HUGE deal about RWL tires. This other 'shopped pic makes it seem a little overboard. Nothing says you can't do your own
Time to get new tires anyway. Or wheels....hmmmm I wonder how the RMS would look with the wheels from the 9C1...NO! No visual mod spending! Go fast parts ONLY! (And new tires still)

Received my sequential kit from Jerry's Electronics. Possibly the best kit for our cars. I also put the proper Caprice specific (length and elec connectors) and I had a set of chrome spotlight heads and rings powder coated black. Big thanks goes to Billy for that one!

I have a gauge cluster surround with a tach to install soon. I haven't touched the Caprice in months, really.

I picked up a used/VIN lock power programmer III for $30. Knowing its useless in its current state, I had already found a tuner in New York that unlocks them and has better than excellent reviews. This way, if I change tires or something small, I do t have to send the PCM out for big bucks.

As per usual, nothing mind blowing to update, but I like to keep the timeline sorta documented.

I installed the gauge bezel mounted pro tach. Had to get a terminal for the signal wire to connect to the PCM (thanks to Mike Hewitt for that). Found out that all 96s, impala, caprice, whatever, have the white tach signal wire already installed. I just put it aside, closed the connector, and ran new conduit to the fire wall.

Grounded the tach to the dash frame. The police left a few convenient places for a ground.

I tapped into the ashtray light (which is actually the light to the blazer console PRNDL now) so the tach is only on with the exterior lights on and can be adjusted with the dimmer.

As for the 12v ignition wire, I used an "add a fuse" into the drivers side fuse panel. Once I put the SEO fuse box back in, the tach will have its own dedicated blade fuse.

It works great! Needs to be set at 4 cylinder in order for it to read accurate RPMs in a '96.

I purchased a 4 pin weather pack kit to use for the tach harness for ease of removal, and it'll look stock. Turns out I DON'T have the proper crimping tool for these terminals, so I'll have to wait to install that.

I also got the Caprice specific spotlights and connectors (a few actually) and installed those. Chrome heads until mod day at Billy's I'll grab the black ones. Drivers side works, passenger side not so much. I broke my test light somehow, so why it doesn't work will be determined later.

I now have the ribbed (for her pleasure) upper vinyl door panels I've been looking for, thanks to Dave. I guess I'll have to rivet it all together once I take on that project.

I also picked up a set of older chrome window crank handles with the black knob. I think they look cool. They fit like a glove! A little nicer looking than the blue plastic ones. The part number for those is 20322800. When looking for a set, I found NOS pairs for $150.00. Kinda crazy. I only got 3 and found the 4th in the HELP! section at advance for $6. Paid $10 on eBay for the 3 OEM ones.

I still have the sequentials to install and the autox springs to put back in.

I'm excited to announce, that I installed the sequential harness kit today and it works great and no problems from the get go!

I think programming it was more a PITA than drilling, soldering, cutting, bleeding, etc.

Excellent kit and super simple to install!

The factory harness connector in the trunk had to have the green and yellow wires cut and stripped and the harness was so brittle, the cooper insides came with the insulation :/

It's a good thing I hang on to all types of B harnesses and connectors. Cut stripped the new one, took the old connector apart, out with the old terminal, in with the new! I was kinda pissed.

Awesome! Any pics/ video? I love sequentials. Def my first mod if I ever get a sedan.   

Ill shoot and post a video maybe tomorrow. I had to be to work at 7, so no time to install AND enjoy.

Yup. Found this guy loose and rattling and 2 others completely missing. All on the drivers side.

About a month ago I replaced all the bolts on the passenger side of my wagon. The rear most bolt was broken and the gasket blew out so it was loud as hell. I couldn't get that stud out using the well known method so I installed a new metal fel pro gasket using all new bolts in the holes I could get bolts into and it is quiet now. All the bolts came right out without any penetrating oil just using a 3/8 ratchet and small breaker bar on the end of it. Which is surprising because there is rust everywhere. The motor was warm and I didn't detach the cat from the manifold. Just unbolted the intermediate pipe.

I also replaced mine, with grade 8 bolts. Backside driver bolt backed almost all the way out!

I've heard of it happening, I knew the front drivers was missing, but I didn't expect to find this!

Man you stay busy, huh?

You are making me tired with all the work you are doing .............  

Carry on   

More "tinkering" than work, lol. You'll see tomorrow.

Here's my loud ticking/clacking. It's been too long like this, but now that I know for certain I'm gonna wait to purchase an aftermarket flexplate and a better TC. No sense in getting under there multiple times. One shot, one kill, as we say. A friend offered up his lift at his shop after he's finished building his plow truck. That'll hopefully give me enough time ($) to gather what I need. Anybody know the specific size/thread of the flywheel bolts?

Wow that last picture of the car has me drooling! What a gorgeous car my friend!

My next keeper bbody will be a low mile caprice 9c1, if I can ever find one. I want it to be, or I will paint it, black and white. Dual spotlights and a big push bumper are a must. The car would eventually become a t56 with a nasssssty cam.

I'm jealous lol blues brothers has always been my fav movie. Ill never forgive Elwood for picking a ford over the 9c1 for the sorry sequel BB 2000.

CrashMaster wrote:

Wow that last picture of the car has me drooling! What a gorgeous car my friend!

My next keeper bbody will be a low mile caprice 9c1, if I can ever find one. I want it to be, or I will paint it, black and white. Dual spotlights and a big push bumper are a must. The car would eventually become a t56 with a nasssssty cam.

I'm jealous lol blues brothers has always been my fav movie. Ill never forgive Elwood for picking a ford over the 9c1 for the sorry sequel BB 2000.

Thank you!

Mine will eventually get there. Not B&W tho. Too much attention. I agree on the BB 2K thing. BB king had a few B bodies there. Shame on Elwood. He went from a 440 mopar to a crappy smog equipped 351W. If memory serves me correct, none of them were actually police cars. I could be wrong.

Dan actually had a dark blue 440 police car in the 70s! He must have lost his taste in cars over the years or he's not a GM fan. I'm not sure!

I re-found my corvette fuel rail covers from a couple years ago. I installed the studs before I even owned the covers. Might end up putting some washers under the studs to allow some room for the harness. Everything is ready to be neatly tucked. I ordered the 90* Gates hose that "replaces" the disco corvette booster hose. Good ol rock auto!

I started putting the new (to me) solid Spohn chromoly sway bars and poly bushings/end links on. These are HEAVY. Gonna have to do some counter-weight reduction elsewhere on this pig.

Spohn on top (upside down) stock on bottom



Also swapping out the SS springs out back for the PPM springs I had in last year. Sits too high with the SS stockers.

All the stripping and painting I did almost 2 years ago is holding up pretty good! Had to do some touch up stuff with a rattle can. Not bad for sitting most of this time.





And then there's these 2 mystery pieces.........

Hmm.....^^^^

I think I know what those are

Started on the rear Spohn sway bar install. By start I mean, jack stands, wheels off, not one bolt turned. But, here's the rear of the car still clean.




Hopefully when it's all done, I didn't add too much sway bar. Next things to upgrade are valve springs, rockers, brakes, exhaust (headers and elec cutouts) and some other small things. She may be "down" but she sure ain't out!

Got the rear Spohn sway bar on. It seems as tho the extended control arms do in fact spread out the mounting points for the sway bar. The stock one is apparently flexible enough. As I had little to no trouble putting it on maybe 2 years ago. I had to work some sorcery to get this one to fit on and bolt up properly. I also unbolted the shocks and swapped the PPM autoX springs back in. 1" drop difference between them and the stock SS springs I had in.


The hose I ordered from rock auto came in. So I'll be tucking and stretching to get the corvette covers on.

Suck fest. One of the cracks flared up some of the metal near the last bolt head. Back at it tm.

I think it's about time to change it!

You could say that. It's taking a little bit outa me to get it done, but slow and steady wins the race.

This pretty much ruined everything for me. I think I'm done until spring time. Roll her back out when it's warm again and reassess my situation. I tried it all from welding to vice grips to bolt-outs.

Hey. Are you having a problem breaking it loose because the motor turns? I have used a pipe wrench tuned back front to back in relation to the car on the harmonic balancer. Basically you put the jaw of the pipe wench in the big opening on the balancer, while the other part is gripping the belt side of it. then turn the motor with wrench til it puts the wrench against the frame. Now the engine will not turn in that direction. I have used this method several times to break the balancer, and the flex plate bolts loose.

No. Give me some credit, here. For that, I threaded in some bolts on the balancer and stuck a crow bar in there. Works great!

One (of the many) cracks in the plate was cracked up over the flange on the bolt head. Any attempt to break that bolt loose stripped it more and more. Me I'm here. Up the creek. No paddle. I've used the craftsman bolt-outs to no avail. They just cut the corners off the bolt head :/

I'm at a loss here. Extremely beside myself.

Can you get a dremel up there to grind or cut away the welds?

Weld an offset wrench to the bolt. Then hit it with a hammer.

I'm gonna give it another shot tm. I don't think I own ANY offset wrenches, to be honest. Good idea. I'll ask around.

That is a good idea Billy. Even if you had to mess up a new one it would be worth it if it worked.

It's snowing. I'm stuck at work. Bored. Soo...

I never got that last bolt out. I put everything away and rolled the 9C1 under the car port in October and slapped the car cover over it. Trans still hanging out on the frame rails. Pretty much lost hope at the time and moved on to other cars that I have. Hopefully spring will yield different results. Found the engine leaning, back like a homie, on the engine mounts. Shoulda thought about that beforehand.

If I can get it fixed and move on, I'd like to get a higher stall converter. Something that'll be good with 3.73s.

I'm currently planning the 24x conversion and buying my own software. Why not learn it and give it a shot. Kinda lucky that I have a '96 so I'll be saving some $$$ on parts the pre '96 LT1 guys would need to buy. There's nothing wrong with the opti in this car. Doesn't even have 50k mikes on it. But the LS PCM are apparently much easier to tune and can be more finely tuned than an LT1 PCM.

I'm ditching the thrashed H pipe for a Pypes X pipe.

I'd like to install a Vette starter while I'm under the car, as well.

I've got aluminum heads and some BBK headers waiting to go on. I'd like to open the heads up a bit. I'm going to add better springs and 1.6rr. Seems to be the trusted standard for a street LT1 car.

As we all do, I've got quite the extensive list of "to dos".

One thing I'd like to get done before spring is build my door panels. Anybody have a good idea on the best way to put the door panel pieces back together? The 3 big pieces.

I was thinking about ditching the heavy steel front bumper support for an aluminum piece. Maybe Billy M. can fab something up?

These are some of the "larger" projects on the list.

Smaller things like installing a weather pack connector for the tach harness (need special crimp tool), installing my poly bushing in the rear control arms, swapping the SS rear in, and doing breaks all around are on that list.

Look into plastic welders for the door panels
I havent bought one yet but thought about it a couple of times
I've been sucessful with JB Weld for some areas

sdstick wrote:

Look into plastic welders for the door panels
I havent bought one yet but thought about it a couple of times
I've been sucessful with JB Weld for some areas

Thank you, sir!
I'll look into that. Something like door panels that get a lot of use, I want it to be solid and cured like factory.

You may want to look into plastic repair compounds for doing body repairs, etc. Is this to repair a cracked panel or to just put them together like factory? I know GM just used the plastic melt approach from factory, so the plastic welding iron may be your best bet.

MalibuSSwagon wrote:

You may want to look into plastic repair compounds for doing body repairs, etc. Is this to repair a cracked panel or to just put them together like factory? I know GM just used the plastic melt approach from factory, so the plastic welding iron may be your best bet.

I'm using an upper TBI style section with my 96 door panels. My 9C1 came cloth glued over the speaker grills on the doors. I was able to find on complete manual door with bare plastic speaker grill and I have another I'm going to have to put the new grill portion plus the upper portion together. I'll have to take pictures of what I'm talking about.

Door panels arent hard to work like the factory did
Just need to be able to position parts properly then, using an adequate method, secure.
Same old story...the right method & tools

sdstick wrote:

Door panels arent hard to work like the factory did
Just need to be able to position parts properly then, using an adequate method, secure.
Same old story...the right method & tools

Gotcha. Let's see what I can come up with.

Alrighty. Looking for my next upgrades. With the trans still out, I'd like to get a "better" converter. I was also thinking about getting a new aftermarket flexplate (still have to remove the rest of mine). TCI or keep the OEM one I got used? I'm also thinking corvette starter. I can't remember much about the corvette starter. I know Tim did that to his. Anything special I need to know ahead of time? I figure I'd get Gary's harness for the batteries and corvette starter as well. For a TC, I'm not looking for some crazy performance type deal. Maybe a used OEM one from an S10. Again, any insight, suggestions, tips?

S10 converter and OEM flexplate will be fine. Vette starter bolts right in. Nothing to worry about if you are getting the harness I think the wires are longer. Changing rear main seal while you are in there?

GasTT wrote:

S10 converter and OEM flexplate will be fine. Vette starter bolts right in. Nothing to worry about if you are getting the harness I think the wires are longer. Changing rear main seal while you are in there?

Rear main seal on a 4x,xxx mile engine that's not leaking? Likely not. Where's you get your Vette starter from? Looking for a part # since the GM # is disco.

AutoZone Corvette starter, part number 17124

Got a Advanced Auto LT4 starter in each of my turbo Buicks (yeah they fit those too). Factory Buick one weighs almsot 20 lbs, LT4 is like 8 lbs......and spins way faster with less current draw.

Wouldn't use a used conveter unless I knew for certain the trans it came out of was ok, or you risk pumping crap through your good trans and ruining it.

Thanks! I'm looking at a reman TC. Don't have the kind of money a big name company charges, like edge or something. Trying to spread the funds out to get more than one "upgrade". If I don't, I won't be able to drive it this year, either. No sense in putting it back together just to tear it apart again IMO.

Once I get the funds, soon, I'll be ordering the Daaco TC and the Vette starter. I'll stick wit the OEM flexplate I have to replace my broken one. Provided I can get that last bolt out. I'm gonna try some heat or using that bolt buster tool. Keep your fingers crossed. I don't want to end up paying to have it towed to a shop where some dick is gonna charge me stupid $ to get that bolt out. Obviously worst case, which way far out there. I just need this snow to melt and the warm sun to grace us once again. The '88 and the rms are on the back burner until this car is fixed and driving again.

I was also thinking about ditching my effed up H Pypes for one of those Pypes X pipes. Anybody running one of those?

All goes well, there's a few more things needing attention and I'm hoping she will be ready for the annual passage to the Mother's Day weekend swap meet that's here. Maybe even get to install the SS rear end that I got from Al.

This is me needing a paved driveway or garage with a lift

Pic from months ago. Probably another 3' of snow now.