This is for anyone looking to remove the a/c from their '94-'96.
This write-up has nothing to do with removing the stock compressor, but I'll mention that on my car during removal the compressor wouldn't clear the frame with the rear support bracket still attatched. I used a 15mm wrench to unbolt the compressor bracket from the stud in the block but the stud stuck out too far for the bracket to slide all the way off. I ended up grinding the star tip off the stud so that I could rotate the compressor enough to allow the bracket to slide off the end of the stud. I'm now using the stud with the original 15mm nut as a point to run ground straps from the engine to the frame (at the battery cable tie-down) and the inner fender.
Tools needed to install delete pulley:
13mm socket (used for the idler to remove the belt as well as for the compressor bolts)
I bought the delete pulley from Autozone for just under $42 after tax. It took 2 days for them to get it from the warehouse to the store for me to pick up, so plan accordingly. The pulley is NOT the Camaro 1le pulley, but the Dorman "a/c bypass pulley" part number 34209. There was no need to do any clearancing to the bracket and the stock belt fit perfectly. So those who have had to do some clearancing may have had an older model pulley or a Camaro pulley.
The holes in the delete pulley bracket were threaded perfectly to allow the use of the stock bolts. This in itself is a problem. If you reuse the stock bolts they will not sit flush as the section under the bolt head is smooth as was the bolt holes in the original compressor. Those bolts will bottom out in the new bracket with about 1-2" left sticking out. This was unacceptable to me as I wanted to get as much of the bolt in the block as possible to ensure no bolts would be snapped from the side forces being applied by the belt. Also they got in the way of the belt being put on and taken off.
I drilled out the threads on the bracket using a 3/8ths drill bit and then cleaned up the holes with a small grinding tip on a dremel. The drill kept jamming in the threads so I ran the drill in reverse and it cut fine without jamming at all, all-be-it very slowly. Once I opened up the holes enough to let the bolts drop fully in and out of the holes I was satisfied and moved onto the next issue.
The bracket in stock form doesn't allow the belt to line up right. The nub that the pulley sits on just isn't long enough. I thought I could put a spacer behind the pulley but the bearing needs to be seated onto the nub just right and any spacer between the pulley and the bracket will take the bearing too far off the nub to allow it to carry any load reliably.
Go to your local Home Depot/Lowes and buy 9 washers for a 3/8ths bolt. Take a stock bolt with you if you need to be sure about the size. You're going to need a total of 9 washers for this (as 3 go on each bolt) so consider buying one or two of those little baggies of 3/8ths washers for a buck or two.
During assembly you'll place these washers between the pulley bracket and the block. This is where having the bolts slide freely helps alot.
First start out by sliding the middle bolt through the bracket fully and place 3 washers on the expossed end of the bolt. Then start the bolt into the block just enough to allow the pulley to be held to the engine.
Second slide one of the other two bolts through the bracket and put 3 washers on the end. Then start the bolt into the block just until it's at the point that it won't fall out and drop the washers.
Then do the same with the last bolt.
If you use 2 washers the belt will sit on the back edge of the idler and there won't be much clearence between the pulley and the block. 3 washers seemed to be the perfect amount to sit the belt in the exact same spot it was in with the compressor. It should be noted that this info is best used with the a/c hoses already removed to allow easier clearance for fat hands and tools.