My LSx Swapped Box

I wanted to branch out into a new thread.

My old race build from earlier this year was a compilation of the fab work that went into getting my car ready for a race I ultimately couldn't attend...in a very short period of time.

Regardless...the car starts runs and moves under its own power without any help which was a huge accomplishment all in it's own. I would like to try and make this thread as informational as possible so people can learn from the many mistakes I have made in the process and hopefully provide a reference point for someone pursuing a similar course of action in the future. I myself have always found the threads like this the most helpful as they help guide you around things which can become costly mistakes in a hurry! Either way, I hope you guys enjoy it.
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So....here is the Technical information of where I am at right now. No smoking mirrors or exotic tales....just what you will find if you were to tear the car apart tomorrow....

Engine
2006 All Aluminum 5.3 H.O. (rpo L33) 14x,000 Miles
Converted to carburetion (currently with the Victor Jr. Intake from Edelbrock, Proform 750)
Factory 9.9:1 Compression
Factory "799" Casting Heads (same as "243" z06)
Meziere Electric Water Pump (race version....no thermostat provision)
Modified "Dougs" F-Body Shorty Headers (1-5/8 primaries 2.5" v-band collectors)
F-Body Engine Dampener (no accessories, just a alternator)
Engine is almost 100lbs lighter than the iron block version

L33 Stock Cam Specs
114 LDA 116 INTAKE CENTERLINE
1.70 ROCKER RATIO

Lift:
@Cam @Valve
EXHAUST: 0.283 0.480
INTAKE: 0.283 0.480

Cam Timing@0.004-inch Tappet Lift:
Open Close Adv. Duration
EXHAUST: 57 BBDC 36 ATDC 273
INTAKE: 9 BTDC 87 ABDC 276

Cam Timing@0.050-inch Tappet Lift:
Open Close Duration
EXHAUST: 27 BBDC 14 BTDC 193
INTAKE: 19 ATDC 32 ABDC 193

Transmission
Fresh Rebuild on a TH350
Currently Auto Valve-Body with Governor and Modulator
B&M Hole-shot 2400 Stall Converter
Indexed and Re-drilled Stock Flexplate with GM Spacer

Rear End
1987 9C1 8.5 10 Bolt
Trick Flow Aluminum Girdle Cover
3.73:1 Gears on a Welded Differential
Stock Axles 28 Spline
9C1 Drum Brakes

What kind of air cleaner is that? Looks more "red" than a K&N does.

Do you plan on adding accessories like a P/S pump in the future?

...Onto the Game Plan...

Now that I have gotten this far with the car...it is really time to choose a direction. I have been on this stuck for a while. It is torn between being an all-out race car, or a really nice street car, and until recently I have had a hard time making up my mind.

I have decided that for financial reasons and personal reasons, I am going to tailor the cart towards being more street oriented. Basically I am going to move forward on maximizing my current setup. I have always believed that the correct batch of parts combined with the time to dial in an engine will always yield better results then throwing things from a speed parts warehouse at it. I have already learned of a few popular parts that just aren't suitable for street use, and I hope someone can use that info in the future. (I will go into detail later).

So....the goals for the winter are as follows:

-Interior rehabilitation
I want to bring back the 1981 time capsule look. I would like to concentrate on making the interior appear OEM, while maintaining functionality and a few amenities (a radio would be nice).

-Rear Differential
I have been gambling with the current setup for too long. I should have learned after the first broken axle that it is WAY cheaper to build a rear, then it is to paint and hang a quarter panel! I plan on going with a full spool, Moser axles, different gears, welded tubes, and a nice anti-roll bar.

-The Twins
I wouldn't be surprised if people called this "internet b/s" ...but those of you who have met me, know it will get done. The car is getting a pair of twin turbos over the winter that will compliment the lower rpm torque production of the motor. I am basically looking to set it up so the motor builds boost FAST.

If I can get these items squared away within budget...then I will consider doing paint and body if my guy has time (but that will all revolve around how much I get done mechanically first).

I am getting the car back into the sleeper stock appearance behavior it had before. I will dial it in to be a blast on the street and tune it down if it outruns the clock at the strip, but I have decided against doing the cage in the car. Maybe down the road, but for now, I have some different plans.

Matt Trakker wrote:

What kind of air cleaner is that? Looks more "red" than a K&N does.

Do you plan on adding accessories like a P/S pump in the future?

Spectre....it was the autozone special LOL. Actually doesn't seem to be a bad filter for the money and it is washable, but I didn't want to drive around town with an open carb AND no hood lol.

I have no plans of adding power steering. I really like the feel of the manual box, and I like the feedback I get from the road. If anything, the car may get a set of skinnies on steel wheels with the NOS wheel covers I have....just to make the steering effort a little easier in tight situations (parking lots, and the garage)

bfurches wrote:

Matt Trakker wrote:

What kind of air cleaner is that? Looks more "red" than a K&N does.

Do you plan on adding accessories like a P/S pump in the future?

Spectre....it was the autozone special LOL. Actually doesn't seem to be a bad filter for the money and it is washable, but I didn't want to drive around town with an open carb AND no hood lol.

I have no plans of adding power steering. I really like the feel of the manual box, and I like the feedback I get from the road. If anything, the car may get a set of skinnies on steel wheels with the NOS wheel covers I have....just to make the steering effort a little easier in tight situations (parking lots, and the garage)

I like the way this is going on! Dual leaf blowers will be really cool for this! I'll have to come see it sometime soon


And did you know, some tests have shown Spectre filters flow BETTER than K&N filters do? Food for thought before you spend 10 bucks on a filter and another 50-65 extra on the name.

As with any bigger project...it quickly becomes 75% planning and 25% fabricating if you want the end result to come out nice...

I am trying to get the main ideas behind the turbo plumbing figured out. One turn off with the twin turbo stuff has always been packaging and overall appearance....I never got into the whole non-symmetrical look...but it is what it is, and I am sure I can make due...

Anyways....here are a few of the hurdles...and I am open to suggestions...

The Motor Plate




As you can see in the pictures, with the set-back of the engine, and factoring in the drop...there is really no practical way to notch the plate and have the manifolds exit low and forward...I think no matter what I will be stuck with coming up and forward. (this eliminates the option of going truck manifolds). I have been looking into options and this is where I am at with it....

LS2 C6 Manifolds "UP"

The C6 manifolds seem like a viable option. They appear to be well designed and I feel like they would flow good. They are also fairly symmetrical in appearance, and I could make a nice transition like the engine bay pictured below:





04-06 GTO Manifolds or Headers

Another option I like would be to use the 04-06 GTO style manifolds or possibly even the stainless JBA shorty headers. These are more of a swept forward design if I were to flip them up....but I am afraid they may sit too high (I can't find any pictures of them installed in that configuration)...




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Those two listed above seem to be the most viable cost effective option at the moment....but if someone else has any suggestions I am all ears...

The aftermarket Stainless forward facing options are amazing, but I simply can't see myself spending 1k dollars on headers alone. It is just to rich for my blood and way off budget. Here are a few examples of the offerings just for reference so you guys get a better idea of what I am trying to accomplish with placement and etc...

OBX Turbo Headers (Stainless Works Knock-Offs 400-500 but I can't find them for sale anymore)




Stainless Works (very nice, but 900-1,200)




Schwartz (polished stainless 900 with v-bands)



Nelson Racing Engines (5,000 )



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As you can see...there are some REALLY nice products out there...but many come with a hefty price tag...and this build is all about getting the most bang for the buck. So .....opinions, suggestions or critique?

More turbo information...

I took a ride over to my Caprice today to take some more measurements and continue building on my game plan. I concentrated mostly on intercooler and radiator placement.

Radiator

The first thing I figured out was the amount of usable room inside the radiator support. The goal is to have the radiator and fans flush mounted into the core support (as opposed to externally mounted as it comes from the factory). I determined that the total available space is 17.5"x34". This number gives me a few options for off the shelf radiators (I can machine some aluminum mounted bosses and have them welded to the rad afterwards).

Current:


http://www.northernfactory.com/HIGH_PERFORMANCE/SEARCH_BY_CATEGORY/HIGH_PERFORMANCE_RADIATORS/ENGINE_SWAP_-_CONVERSION_RADIATORS/205183
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-1-26271-x/overview/

The Northern unit would be ideal seeing that my water pump has both it's ports located on the passenger side:



Intercooler

I have put a lot of thought into this portion. I really wanted an intercooler that would take full affect of the Caprice's large front egg-crate grille. I have the options narrowed down to two (which are basically the same thing anyways). The idea would be to have the intercooler mounted forward of the radiator outside the core support where the ac condenser would normally be placed. There is a lot of room to work with:



I would have the intercooler positioned so that the outlet to the carb/ throttle body comes up where the OE hood latch used to be. The rad support already has a nice molded recessed area that would be perfect for the center outlet of the intercooler. Placing the cooler here would also allow me to have the inlets for the intercooler to drop right by the high-beam buckets.




I could completely cut out and smooth the inboard metal structure of the rad support where the high-beam harness passes through. The compressor outlets would be positioned in a manor where only one 90* bend would be required off a coupler to go directly into the air-cooler.

These are my two choices that would be a perfect fit....

http://godspeedproject.com/GODSPEED_INTERCOOLER?product_id=1508
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=IC0011-A&Category_Code=INCO

The other nice thing about having the intercooler up high is that I can build an air pan under the front bumper to direct air to the lower portion of the radiator which will still be exposed.

Not even sure its's plausible, but since you're looking to maximize underhood space. Would mounting two slightly smaller radiators side by side angled to fit flush behind the grill work? I'm not sure if this explanation makes sense but it does it my head.

Edit, I reread your post and this is for inter cooler fitment.. I think that may actually work for that too. Depending on the intercooler dimensions you could run two in the same positions.

Intercooler behind the grill seems like the best possible spot for it. If you do the typical lame-o setup with it down low, you'll ruin it on a landing because I can totally see this thing twin turbo'd pulling the front wheels. The inlet for the carb where the hood latch goes is perfect, hood pins can take care of the lack of a latch, as long as you're ok with that taking away from your sleeper stock appearance.

Back to your post a few days ago, do any of the truck manifolds allow for good turbo mounting? An older issue of HOT ROD magazine had a cheap turbo LS article that used junk yard truck manifolds. It may be worth checking out, but I have a feeling you've already searched that topic thoroughly.

Cadet57 wrote:

Not even sure its's plausible, but since you're looking to maximize underhood space. Would mounting two slightly smaller radiators side by side angled to fit flush behind the grill work? I'm not sure if this explanation makes sense but it does it my head.

Edit, I reread your post and this is for inter cooler fitment.. I think that may actually work for that too. Depending on the intercooler dimensions you could run two in the same positions.

I think I am follwing you. Basically have two small intercoolers make a "V" that follows the grill?

1984twodoor wrote:

Intercooler behind the grill seems like the best possible spot for it. If you do the typical lame-o setup with it down low, you'll ruin it on a landing because I can totally see this thing twin turbo'd pulling the front wheels. The inlet for the carb where the hood latch goes is perfect, hood pins can take care of the lack of a latch, as long as you're ok with that taking away from your sleeper stock appearance.

Back to your post a few days ago, do any of the truck manifolds allow for good turbo mounting? An older issue of HOT ROD magazine had a cheap turbo LS article that used junk yard truck manifolds. It may be worth checking out, but I have a feeling you've already searched that topic thoroughly.

Unfortunately the truck manifolds would dump low and forward, which if I wasnt running a motor plate....it would probably work perfect. I have to get something that will come up and over the motor plate which is where I am running into problems. I can't seem to find a method I like without spending some coin. Even the corvette manifolds I pictured....guys want 150+ (because it is a corvette part). Those OBX headers weren't too bad....a little pricey for Chinese stuff...but at least they looked nice.....but now they are nowhere to be found.

bfurches wrote:

Cadet57 wrote:

Not even sure its's plausible, but since you're looking to maximize underhood space. Would mounting two slightly smaller radiators side by side angled to fit flush behind the grill work? I'm not sure if this explanation makes sense but it does it my head.

Edit, I reread your post and this is for inter cooler fitment.. I think that may actually work for that too. Depending on the intercooler dimensions you could run two in the same positions.

I think I am follwing you. Basically have two small intercoolers make a "V" that follows the grill?

Bingo.

bfurches wrote:

Cadet57 wrote:

Not even sure its's plausible, but since you're looking to maximize underhood space. Would mounting two slightly smaller radiators side by side angled to fit flush behind the grill work? I'm not sure if this explanation makes sense but it does it my head.

Edit, I reread your post and this is for inter cooler fitment.. I think that may actually work for that too. Depending on the intercooler dimensions you could run two in the same positions.

I think I am follwing you. Basically have two small intercoolers make a "V" that follows the grill?

1984twodoor wrote:

Intercooler behind the grill seems like the best possible spot for it. If you do the typical lame-o setup with it down low, you'll ruin it on a landing because I can totally see this thing twin turbo'd pulling the front wheels. The inlet for the carb where the hood latch goes is perfect, hood pins can take care of the lack of a latch, as long as you're ok with that taking away from your sleeper stock appearance.

Back to your post a few days ago, do any of the truck manifolds allow for good turbo mounting? An older issue of HOT ROD magazine had a cheap turbo LS article that used junk yard truck manifolds. It may be worth checking out, but I have a feeling you've already searched that topic thoroughly.

Unfortunately the truck manifolds would dump low and forward, which if I wasnt running a motor plate....it would probably work perfect. I have to get something that will come up and over the motor plate which is where I am running into problems. I can't seem to find a method I like without spending some coin. Even the corvette manifolds I pictured....guys want 150+ (because it is a corvette part). Those OBX headers weren't too bad....a little pricey for Chinese stuff...but at least they looked nice.....but now they are nowhere to be found.

Dare I say find someone to make something custom Probably not very good cost wise but you know they will work.

I found something kinda cool today that I wanted to share....

I was researching individual EGT (exhaust gas temp) gauge setups today, and at the moment it seems that the Red Alert system basically has the market cornered.
http://www.altronicsinc.com/pages/redalert.html

Overall it is a nice system....however it has a few drawbacks.....it is bulky and ugly, it only displays data for one cylinder at a time....and it is wicked expensive.

With all that said...while researching I stumbled across this unit from Auber:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_26&products_id=231

I looked into it thinking "you get what you pay for" ....but everything I have read so far has shown some really great results. The display is small enough where you could make a panel to mount 8 units and still be aesthetically pleasing.

Here are a few single gauge installs for size reference...


http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1d830b3127ccefd025eea603c00000030O08CZtXDdy5ag9vPgo/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/
http://www.4wdaction.com.au/_phpBB/download/file.php?id=69522&t=1

Nothing crazy for an update....

it makes it hard to work on the car when it is parked a half hour away (I may just end up bringing it back to the house for the winter months....undecided.)

But...here are the new gauges going in:




I picked up these Autometer Carbons from my friend. I really like the design, layout and etc of these over the Ultra Lites I have in the car now .....which are spoken for ....It is just something a little different.

The game plan is to stuff a stock "speedo-only" cluster back in the dash, and I want to make the black panel above the glove box a trap door that folds out with all the gauges mounted in an aluminum pod. (it looks better in my head then it sounds on paper LOL)

I also would like to move the ratchet shifter up under the dash (since all of the vents and etc are gone), and bend up an arm that comes out by the column so I have a functioning column ratchet shifter.

I have a lot of work this winter LOL

I started on the gauge cluster today (the one I want to mount behind the dash).

Basically, I am looking to have the decorative panel flip out and lay flat to reveal the aluminum pod with all gauges angled towards the driver. So far, I am liking how it is coming together. I have to come up with a hinge assembly, but visibility from the drivers seat is excellent, and when open, it doesn't really interfere with the front seat passenger either.









Nice to have some actual progress pics again!

I can't wait to see it all finished up!

Have you heard that already today?

So I was over at my buddies junkyard yesterday because he said he had a caprice with blue interior he was getting ready to scrap in case I needed anything. Well the car was an 86+ and the majority of the interior parts I needed were junk....

So I walked around the yard and stumbled across a 1985 Deville Brougham with 56k miles. The interior was in PRISTINE condition. It has the red velour with leather accents on the dash and seat bottoms.

Now I know these are FWD and a different platform all together....but after taking some measurements I determined I can use the seats, dash, and some parts of the door panels. I started ripping yesterday and I accomplished a fair amount. I still have to go back today to finish pulling the dash without breaking anything....but here is a teaser of the rear seats loosely fitted:





It will take a little work to get them in there, but they are the same width and everything (not to mention a WAY nicer material).

I also snatched the steering column that has titl/ telesope feature. The wheel is mint.



I want to see if I can pry up the plexi glass in the center and replace the cadillac logo with the caprice crest.

Hope you don't need the dash harness

Once you put the 2nd motor in that car....those'll be the front seats...

Wait, so those seats are from one of the FWD "little Cadillacs"? Or a Brougham? I'm confused because you said you were taking the dashboard too?
Do you mean the RWD Brougham and this kind of dash?



Why the swap after all that work with those hidden gauges?

Matt, its the C-body DeVille he's using.

sdstick wrote:

Once you put the 2nd motor in that car....those'll be the front seats...

I lol'd

Matt Trakker wrote:

Wait, so those seats are from one of the FWD "little Cadillacs"? Or a Brougham? I'm confused because you said you were taking the dashboard too?
Do you mean the RWD Brougham and this kind of dash?



Why the swap after all that work with those hidden gauges?

Good point you must really want a capricillac

Matt Trakker wrote:

Wait, so those seats are from one of the FWD "little Cadillacs"? Or a Brougham? I'm confused because you said you were taking the dashboard too?

The 1985 was the first year of the smaller FWD caddies. Overall the dash is 1.5" more narrow then the caprice dash, but the way it lays out in the car, I really dont think it will be noticeable. If it is however, I have an idea to correct it.

Cadet57 wrote:

Matt, its the C-body DeVille he's using.

Justin, thanks again for helping me with the removal today!

1984twodoor wrote:

Matt Trakker wrote:

Why the swap after all that work with those hidden gauges?[/b]

Good point you must really want a capricillac

My main thing is I always wanted a red interior in the caprice, but I could never really find anything I like. Also...the 85 Caddy dash is so much more useful in tearms of layout and appearance that I can actually add some control of primary function right in plain sight and it wont appear horribly out of place (kinda like the way things are now on my dash).

I just feel like when it is done I will have a much cleaner overall look inside.

This is an example of the dash (but with digital cluster while mine is analogue)

bfurches wrote:

Matt Trakker wrote:

Wait, so those seats are from one of the FWD "little Cadillacs"? Or a Brougham? I'm confused because you said you were taking the dashboard too?

The 1985 was the first year of the smaller FWD caddies. Overall the dash is 1.5" more narrow then the caprice dash, but the way it lays out in the car, I really dont think it will be noticeable. If it is however, I have an idea to correct it.

Cadet57 wrote:

Matt, its the C-body DeVille he's using.

Ok, I knew all about the FWDs, the "Brougham" threw me off along with the avant-garde dash selection there, esp since the 1984 Deville was a C-body as well...lol

This should look pretty interesting, I'm eager to see how it turns out. I like the idea of putting gauges of necessity in the places that the dash had all the fuel economy/trip computer stuff. I saw a guy put a 97-99 GMT400 dash in a 70s Chevy truck once, that looked awesome.

The only thing I didn't like about those dashboards was the font GM used for all the lettering, for some reason it always reminded me of the Mr. Coffee logo. They definitely seem to hold up better than the 77-92 RWD dashboards (the pad anyway)

So....it has been fail after fail lately LOL

My folding dash idea for the gauges FAILED

My FWD Cadillac dash swap FAILED

I wanted to have some boost by this time this year..... FAIL

but it's all good. The car is completely back together.
I took it for an alignment yesterday, I rewired everything behind the dash, built a new gauge cluster, moved the MSD off the kick panel and up into the dash, cleaned the guts of the car out, and drove around town.








Fuel level gauge should be here end of the week, and I have to install the tinted plexi cover over the MSD in the dash. Now I just need to work on the tuning and start enjoying as opposed to taking apart.

Hey! It doesn't need more lower! Looks good!

I dunno about that gauge panel, though. You gonna make a trim ring or something? I like the gauges and the positioning though.

toomanytoyz wrote:

I dunno about that gauge panel, though. You gonna make a trim ring or something? I like the gauges and the positioning though.

I know this guy who does custom billet gauge bezels.... Talked to him in Daytona about doing one for my 9C1 cluster...

toomanytoyz wrote:

Hey! It doesn't need more lower! Looks good!

I dunno about that gauge panel, though. You gonna make a trim ring or something? I like the gauges and the positioning though.

LOL, no more lower. haha its pretty slammed.

I get what your saying on the gauge panel....I dunno, its hard to see in the photo, I need some better ones. It actually looks really good in person. Maybe a thin chrome strip on the bottom or something to break it up would help?

Get some hand painted pin stripes around the gauges. It's an idea.

Looks great! Glad to here the progress, not do much the fail. It happens. Deadlines mean nothing if its rushed and not done correctly. Personally, I don't set them anymore. It causes panic and rush. Which, as you know, are VERY bad things in this hobby.

Keep up the good work! I'm happy to see all these box bodies on the scene!

Enjoy that thing for a bit. I want to check it out!

I was honestly confused when you'd mentioned the FWD Cadillac dash swap, what made it not work? Are you putting like a small digital speedo in that leftover port? I like the MSD box in the dash. Part of me thinks that would look awesome with the tinted plexi and then some LEDs, kind of like the lights that technogeeks like to put in their clear case desktop PC towers and stuff...

"Failed" is too strong a word there, trial and error leads to awesome end results...kehd.

I was just talking about the gap on the sides of the panel. Like it's a trapezoidal hole, but a rectangle plate. Dig?

Still looks better than any gauge cluster I've made.

I'm liking the car rolling! I think you should just meet up with me and get the lights...LOL and then take it to the track and have fun.

I was gonna say, still gotta do the lights!

May I suggest this fine gauge arrangement

Lol

Registered the car today.

Also decided to go injected. I am done messing with the carb.

Plan on doing a lot of wiring this weekend.

Good news either way!

What are you going to use for the "swap" from a carb? Anything special?

bfurches wrote:

Registered the car today.

Also decided to go injected. I am done messing with the carb.

Plan on doing a lot of wiring this weekend.

You need a throttle body? I have a spare 350 one that I bought when I was trying to solve that no fuel/no spark issue.

MASShole9C1 wrote:

Good news either way!

What are you going to use for the "swap" from a carb? Anything special?

My buddy got an 01 Tahoe in at his yard with a 5.3. He is letting me rob everything I need in trade for performing some work on his van.

Cadet57 wrote:

You need a throttle body? I have a spare 350 one that I bought when I was trying to solve that no fuel/no spark issue.

No thanks. I don't believe it would work on my intake.
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Getting ready to make a few changes for summer street fun. Stay tuned.

So now I'm all alone...


At least I have less wires!

MPH is for pussys.

Took quite a while...but I guess I can add LSX injection harnesses to my resume LOL

I went to the junkyard today, pulled the harness, intake, valley cover, sensors and etc.

I spent a LOT of time reading and studying the schematics, and I am proud to say the entire harness has been repined and thinned out.




I still want to reroute some things while its on the motor and tuck as much as I can, then I will loom it all up. I took out almost 5lb of wiring from the harness LOL

Wait. I think you need that Pink/Black wire... Shit.

toomanytoyz wrote:

Wait. I think you need that Pink/Black wire... Shit.

LOL

I am not going to lie....it will be a little unnerving until I actually hear it run. That was a lot of shit to remove haha

Rerouted a lot of the harness today for as clean of a look as possible. A lot goes under the intake, the injectors have all been turned toward the intake so all the wiring is inside the rails, and the two primary bundles that go over the intake through the stock location will be covered by the retainer as well as the Vortec engine cover.




I also got everything taped up and loomed. I used a combination of standard convoluted tubing as well as the fabric "chinese finger trap" stuff. I really like the overall look and the way it came out. I am going to try and get it all installed this week.

Looks great! I think this summer I'll give the corvette fuel rail covers another go. I need to "tuck" all the garbage that runs in the valleys next to the injectors. A miserable task in the sun and when its humid as hell.

Highly looking forward to the completion of this swap!

MASShole9C1 wrote:

Highly looking forward to the completion of this swap!

Thanks Brian....me too! If all goes smooth, im hoping I can take it out this weekend and start tuning. Time to put away the jet tool and dust off the laptop!

Pretty cool, man. I'm happy to see you decided to go with fuel injection for it! That's gonna rock.

Today I got a LOT done....





I need to figure out fuel line routing, throttle cable, and button up some wiring. Down-pipes are off to have the new O2 bungs welded in. Making some major headway!

That is dead sexy!

Looks like some kind of robotic parasite lol. Nice man