New Wheels!

I picked up a set of front Weld Draglites in a partial trade this past week. They are 15x6 and have brand new 195/65 tires on them. I was going to buy this size anyways, because I feel that the "skinnies" (15x3/ 15x4) are just too thin for these big cars. I just rolled them in front of my wheels to get an idea of how they would look...



I think there going to look really nice with the chrome bumpers/ stainless door trim.

Does anyone know what backspace you need to run in the rear for a 15x10?
Also...does anyone know of any manufacturer that makes the long shank lug nuts in black (satin or gloss)?

Wow, I dont know how i missed this lol.

I like how those wheels look but I wouldn't be comfortable with too skinny of a tire up front. Did you get two or four?

I only got front runners for now. They may end up going bye-bye...

Some big changes have just come up with the direction im taking the car....

bfurches wrote:

I only got front runners for now. They may end up going bye-bye...

Some big changes have just come up with the direction im taking the car....

Please tell me its a low rider!? LOL

MASShole9C1 wrote:

bfurches wrote:

I only got front runners for now. They may end up going bye-bye...

Some big changes have just come up with the direction im taking the car....

Please tell me its a low rider!? LOL

EEWWWWWWWW!

...Unless it gets the same ET as a lowrider with panel paint and everything

What are the REAL plans?

www.x275.net

looking to shave a little off the ET for 2011

bfurches wrote:

www.x275.net

looking to shave a little off the ET for 2011

So are you keeping the small block or are you doing the LS build up? Whats goin under the hood??

...this for one...

bfurches wrote:

...this for one...

Is that a Garrett T6? Billy likey!

I like where this is going

Cadet57 wrote:

I like where this is going

GIGGIDY! GIGGIDY! GIGGIDY!................Awwwll Riiiight!

I had Weld Draglites on my pinto 15x4 up front, and 15x10 out back. I would love to find a set of those for the wagon in 5x5 bolt pattern.

Looked almost like this one except the flames
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUpi5oU-wmA&feature=related

lol, yes Garrett t6 custom TV series with an 80mm wheel
Good for 1200-1300hp

bfurches wrote:

I picked up a set of front Weld Draglites in a partial trade this past week. They are 15x6 and have brand new 195/65 tires on them. I was going to buy this size anyways, because I feel that the "skinnies" (15x3/ 15x4) are just too thin for these big cars. I just rolled them in front of my wheels to get an idea of how they would look...



I think there going to look really nice with the chrome bumpers/ stainless door trim.

Does anyone know what backspace you need to run in the rear for a 15x10?
Also...does anyone know of any manufacturer that makes the long shank lug nuts in black (satin or gloss)?

In my 88 I installed true three piece centerline model"X" wheels that measure 16 x 11 by themselves, and 12"overall with 295/60-16 tires mounted on them. I rolled the wheel lip all the way up to be even with the bulge inside the wheel house just above the inner lip. This saves the side wall from the "rolling knife action" we have all seen. I welded up the 9" ford 1" narrower on each side & the wheel back space is 6.750" with a .3125" brake rotor hat (x2) added in. It is very easy to check on your own car, just measure the axle from drum to drum (with two tight lug nuts) on the car with the rear wheels off, one person on each side with a straight edge pressed tight & hanging straight down and use a tape measure. Then drag a plumb bob across the inner wheel house over the frame axle hump while scribing the floor to get the maximum inner width of the car that a tire would have to clear inboard. Then subtract the lesser chassis width from the larger drum to drum width and then divide that result by 1/2, (this is the back space that you will see "per wheel" with the tire mounted because it MUST include the bulge of the tire). You also MUST KNOW the ACTUAL width of the tire mounted on the rim. You then have to give a little clearance for the tire inside due to the deflection of the rear upper and lower control arm bushings that will allow the rear axle to shift side to side. Also remember that the top of the tire "tips in" at it's top when the opposite tire is in full droop. This would certainly be a good time to verify that the rear is centered in the car, because if it is not, you should correct that first. My tire to wheel housing clearance is less than 3/8", it NEVER even rubs, and I drive very hard. I do not know who makes black chrome nuts, but I would still recommend McGard even if you can't get the finish you desire.

Machine-De-Zine wrote:

bfurches wrote:

I picked up a set of front Weld Draglites in a partial trade this past week. They are 15x6 and have brand new 195/65 tires on them. I was going to buy this size anyways, because I feel that the "skinnies" (15x3/ 15x4) are just too thin for these big cars. I just rolled them in front of my wheels to get an idea of how they would look...



I think there going to look really nice with the chrome bumpers/ stainless door trim.

Does anyone know what backspace you need to run in the rear for a 15x10?
Also...does anyone know of any manufacturer that makes the long shank lug nuts in black (satin or gloss)?

In my 88 I installed true three piece centerline model"X" wheels that measure 16 x 11 by themselves, and 12"overall with 295/60-16 tires mounted on them. I rolled the wheel lip all the way up to be even with the bulge inside the wheel house just above the inner lip. This saves the side wall from the "rolling knife action" we have all seen. I welded up the 9" ford 1" narrower on each side & the wheel back space is 6.750" with a .3125" brake rotor hat (x2) added in. It is very easy to check on your own car, just measure the axle from drum to drum (with two tight lug nuts) on the car with the rear wheels off, one person on each side with a straight edge pressed tight & hanging straight down and use a tape measure. Then drag a plumb bob across the inner wheel house over the frame axle hump while scribing the floor to get the maximum inner width of the car that a tire would have to clear inboard. Then subtract the lesser chassis width from the larger drum to drum width and then divide that result by 1/2, (this is the back space that you will see "per wheel" with the tire mounted because it MUST include the bulge of the tire). You also MUST KNOW the ACTUAL width of the tire mounted on the rim. You then have to give a little clearance for the tire inside due to the deflection of the rear upper and lower control arm bushings that will allow the rear axle to shift side to side. Also remember that the top of the tire "tips in" at it's top when the opposite tire is in full droop. This would certainly be a good time to verify that the rear is centered in the car, because if it is not, you should correct that first. My tire to wheel housing clearance is less than 3/8", it NEVER even rubs, and I drive very hard. I do not know who makes black chrome nuts, but I would still recommend McGard even if you can't get the finish you desire.

Welcome!

^ yes also welcome.

You brought up some great tricks for those who have never measured back space before...good valuable info.

Your car sounds interesting. Do you have any photos or details on it?