Headlight wiring modification help please?

Hey guys,

So I plan to do something a little different for the headlights in the marshmallow. I only have single beam hid's in the headlight capsules and would like an option for high beams. So what I did was buy a set of 7" round auxilary driving lights to mount behind the grill. I'd like to wire them to come on when I hit the high beams. I'd also like to add a relay for them, and have the low beams stay on when I hit the high beam switch. I think the ground is shared between the hi/low beams somehow, that prevents them from both being on at the same time from the factory. Can somebody help me out with what I need to do for triggers, grounds, and relay pin wiring?

Thanks!

Hmmm. That is a really good idea.

Maybe, you could trace the hi beam circuit back to the dimmer switch and run them to the grill lights.

Effectively cutting the "dual filament" out of the circuit.

Maybe run relays and grounds like Gary from innovative wiring?

You have three wires coming to the socket. Using a wire schematic, or a circuit tester find the ground, and the wire for the high beam. Cut the wire to the high beam about 2" from the socket and tape the socket end up (in case you need to put it back later). Splice in the ground wire the length you need to get to the new lights, and add the length you need to the high beam wire. This will get you to the light. You can use these wires to ad your relays too.

Ok. You guys have brought me back to my original starting point. lol.

I know the three wires for the headlights. Tan is low beam, green is high beam, black is ground.

I don't have the FSM handy and I know there is a quick and easy "4 light highbeam" mod done on the trucks, and I think it can be done in this case, also. I just don't know what it is.

I just want to wire it up safely and reliably.
Low beams = HID's only.
High beams = HID low beams AND relayed 7" driving lights in grill.

Now... How do I do that?

Sound like you need to keep the low beam tan and black, then send the green to the round lights AND to the tan of the low beams.
The problem with that is once tan gets power so does the green. that would be all lights on no matter what the stalk says (hi/low)

How about thinking about it in another way.....

Rewire the dimmer switch so that low beams get constant power with light switch pulled and then just splice the round lights into the green wire at the socket. Your ulimately just making the dimmer switch an on/off switch. Low beams will be on and not affected by the dimmer.
Find switched constant power and bridge it to the low beam, that should give low beam always on. Then once you flip highs, the rounds should come on and the lows should reamain as well.
I don't have a schematic with me but I'll look it over when I get a chance.

That's what I was trying to say, in too little words I guess.

I had one of those High-beam relay kits in a mid 90's suburban the relay had the high /low beam wires and a power from the battery along with a ground wire to the the frame. You could just order one of those kits and adapt it to your specifications or study the pictures of it from painless wiring and just buy a simple relay used for a snow plow and some wire. The kit seems to start at around $40 depending on the application you choose.

Good luck with it

Boxchevy84 wrote:

I had one of those High-beam relay kits in a mid 90's suburban the relay had the high /low beam wires and a power from the battery along with a ground wire to the the frame. You could just order one of those kits and adapt it to your specifications or study the pictures of it from painless wiring and just buy a simple relay used for a snow plow and some wire. The kit seems to start at around $40 depending on the application you choose.

Good luck with it

Good idea.

25 bucks on eBay. Sold.

Lol


Let us know how it turns out.