BADASS of New England

An automobile club for the enthusiast who enjoys the last of the big GM cars. The rear wheel drive B and D bodys. Chevrolet Impala SS, Caprice, 9C1, Buick Roadmaster, Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser, Cadillac Fleetwood
 
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 Rust converter/reformer

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Matt Trakker

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PostSubject: Rust converter/reformer   Tue Jul 10, 2012 2:35 am

Anyone recommend a good functional rust converting product that chemically neutralizes rust? I've used a few of the rattle can kinds a long time ago but they didn't seem to do much but leave a plasticky film behind.
On my Impala's trunklid, rust has formed inside the lid itself at the very back bottom lip (above the taillights). Where the outer metal skin is pinched over the frame of the trunklid, on the outside back of the car, there is swelling beginning to appear in a couple places from rust forming inside the trunklid and pushing out on the metal! When these panels were made, the lip is bare metal and the skin is just wrapped over, then the whole piece was painted...

I want something potent I can blast into the holes and saturate the inside of the trunklid edge so it pools up in there, seeps downward into that seam and hopefully slows this down. I know the real fix would be to remove the skin and clean anything out but I don't know if I can do that (I'd have to peel the lip back and then over the edge, so any "fix" would show...lol.

I'll probably have to get another trunklid painted to match the stupid car which sucks because this is only a few inches right now and not very noticable, but is probably happening all the way across inside as well as on any replacement trunk I can find. And I'd HAVE to put the Beaulieu Chevrolet dealer emblem back on somehow since what the car has going for it is "provenance"... Laughing

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IMPALADAKID
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PostSubject: Re: Rust converter/reformer   Tue Jul 10, 2012 5:22 am

I have used duplicolor for years. It is best to sand most of the rust away. Sraying on a big clump of rust won't help. I like it for areas where I have sanded, and there is pitting left. I spray it on and allow it to work and dry. Then you can sand the excess off. Also great for hitting areas you can't reach.

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bowtiepimp

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PostSubject: Re: Rust converter/reformer   Tue Jul 10, 2012 6:08 am

IMPALADAKID wrote:
It is best to sand most of the rust away. Sraying on a big clump of rust won't help. I like it for areas where I have sanded, and there is pitting left. I spray it on and allow it to work and dry. Then you can sand the excess off. Also great for hitting areas you can't reach.



..... pretty much what he said..... as for the product, to each they own, gotta find what works for you.
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Matt Trakker

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PostSubject: Re: Rust converter/reformer   Tue Jul 10, 2012 11:53 am

Yeah, I know I'd have to clean out what I can, but the issue is the area isn't accessible. I just didn't know if there was a liquid chemical neutralizer I could try to dump/shoot/spray into openings on the underside of the trunklid that would run down into that spot once I close the trunklid. It's actually rust in between the three layers of metal at the rear bottom edge of the trunklid, where the outer skin wraps down, around, and then back up over the trunklid's frame...where the Chevy emblem is. I may try to pry the lip off and down and see if I can grind anything in back of there...but I doubt it's possible.
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sdstick

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PostSubject: Re: Rust converter/reformer   Tue Jul 10, 2012 2:06 pm

Once that happens your kidding yourself if you think there's an easy fix
Noone wants to admit it but we've all been there
Now.....preventive rust treatmernt cant hurt the areas that are prone to problems
Be inventive & spray shoot dump some converter in THOSE places
The duplicolor stuff goes on in somewhat of a stream, so you can let it run down to places you cant see.

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Steve


96BBB 28K 3.42 Bolt-ons
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Ironfistdog

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PostSubject: Re: Rust converter/reformer   Tue Jul 10, 2012 2:19 pm

How about getting a sandblaster in there??
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nttyfufu

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PostSubject: Re: Rust converter/reformer   Tue Jul 10, 2012 3:54 pm

I can't even imagine trying to get all the sand blaster media back out of there.
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http://s1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/nttyfufu/
Cadet57

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PostSubject: Re: Rust converter/reformer   Tue Jul 10, 2012 5:01 pm

nttyfufu wrote:
I can't even imagine trying to get all the sand blaster media back out of there.

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Matt Trakker

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PostSubject: Re: Rust converter/reformer   Tue Jul 10, 2012 5:26 pm

Yeah, it's really not accessible in any way unless you separate the trunk skin from the framework of the lid itself, it's like sheetmetal sandwiched over itself. The car's in really good shape obviously to those who've seen it, it's just so old that this could have been happening 35 years ago and finally showed itself. On the bright side, if I wind up needing to replace the lid (the paint on that is the worst of the car anyway, it's dull for some reason), I can pop out that dealer emblem from the inside, there are two prongs going through the lid. Probably let water through! Laughing
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IMPALADAKID
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PostSubject: Re: Rust converter/reformer   Tue Jul 10, 2012 5:50 pm

Steve beat me to it. Pull any emblems that go through the skin. Tape the holes and any other drain holes from the outside. And spray duplicolor rust converter from inside with the trunk lid as low to the latch as possible with you there That will allow the converter to hit all the spots you can't reach after about 5 min, remove the tape. Sandblasting will certainly leave more media than remove rust when you can't see it. And you would have a hell of a time getting all the media out, and it would just become a sponge for moisture anyways.
Option 2 is take the lid to a body shop, and let them figure it out.

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2007 Pontiac G6 VL 2.4 I4 (Wife's Daily)
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bowtiepimp

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PostSubject: Re: Rust converter/reformer   Tue Jul 10, 2012 6:42 pm

again..... SEM ![b] Laughing


....get a can ( a quart should do most of the car ) ..... just pour it right into the area's you can't reach, an acid brush is a good tool to have handy. Sand and prep everything you can. If your looking for a quick fix this is the cheapest, fastest , easiest way to do it.


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Cadet57

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PostSubject: Re: Rust converter/reformer   Tue Jul 10, 2012 6:49 pm

bowtiepimp wrote:
again..... SEM ![b] Laughing


....get a can ( a quart should do most of the car ) ..... just pour it right into the area's you can't reach, an acid brush is a good tool to have handy. Sand and prep everything you can. If your looking for a quick fix this is the cheapest, fastest , easiest way to do it.



X2. We were talking about this stuff again at the mod day. I can't stress enough how great it is. All you need to do is scrape off the flaky stuff and otherwise, you're good to go. It's self leveling so will fill in any imperfections.
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Matt Trakker

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PostSubject: Re: Rust converter/reformer   Tue Jul 10, 2012 10:51 pm

Way ahead on the SEM- I found out it's sold like a mile from my house. I may wind up getting a gallon, but it's pricey for that...like 60-70 bucks plus hardener I guess? I want to do the undercarriage on the Tahoe, same on the Caprice, and anything I need to on the Impala.

I'll try to post a pic of what I'm talking about on the Impala tomorrow. The problem is I think the trunk skin has begun rotting already. Embarassed
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bowtiepimp

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PostSubject: Re: Rust converter/reformer   Wed Jul 11, 2012 12:04 am

no harder needed........ SEM is #1 brand used in body shops along side 3M ........



.... word to the wise.... don't get it on anything you don't want it on, including yourself Surprised
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Ironfistdog

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PostSubject: Re: Rust converter/reformer   Wed Jul 11, 2012 2:47 pm

http://bit.ly/NurveS

eBay item # 170862326223
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Matt Trakker

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PostSubject: Re: Rust converter/reformer   Wed Jul 11, 2012 3:13 pm

LOL, thanks for the tip on that one. Pretty pricey and probably a lot to ship tho. But it'd be dry as a bone...

Little do they know that will actually fit all 71-76 Chevrolets EXCEPT the 71-6 Caprice coupes, and the Impala "Custom Coupes" with the back window that curves in. It fits all the 4 doors, convertibles, etc. As far as I know anyway. Laughing Oddly enough the car in the pic seems to be a 75 "sport coupe".
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Ironfistdog

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PostSubject: Re: Rust converter/reformer   Wed Jul 11, 2012 3:20 pm

If it works for your car you should try to get it. You'll end up paying more I the long run trying to put a band-aid on a gun shot wound.
Shipping isn't as bad as you think. We have stuff sent greyhound all the time CHEAP! They buy a bus ticket and the parts hitch a ride in the bus.
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