Front Upper A-Arms

Are the 2 bolts (that get shimmed to align) just regular bolts?
I dont have easy access to pound on them to see if they'll push thru.
Theyre rusted in pretty good so I figured I'd ask

sdstick wrote:

Are the 2 bolts (that get shimmed to align) just regular bolts?
I dont have easy access to pound on them to see if they'll push thru.
Theyre rusted in pretty good so I figured I'd ask

No. They have a splined shank, and are a mofo to get out once rusted in.

You are probably going to damage them taking them out, so you would need to replace all 4. Mine are still in because I could not get them out. The best way I know is to have the engine out to give you room to pound them out. Sorry. Maybe someone else has a better idea. I have only attempted this twice. I did them in my Grand national, but it was only 8 years old at the time, and I purchased new uppers, and the bolts came out ok due to it never seeing winter til I got it. and the wagon. The originals are still there because I could not get the bolts out. I should be doing an egine swap in the spring, I will do them then.

Thanks Bill, thats why I asked. I can re-use them,
I'll just need to pull/ relocate the steering shaft to sneak the UCA shaft out enough.
Havent looked at the pass side yet

Pc of cake....pulled the steering box to remove the collapsable shaft
Out came the arm

Thanks Bill, you were 100% right. There was no way in hell those stud/bolts were coming out

You don't have to pull the steering box. Make sure your steering wheel is straight ahead and locked. Unplug the battery for air bag safety, and remove the bolt at the upper column and the bolt at the rag joint. The intermediate steering shaft can then be collapsed and pulled up, giving you access room to slide the UCA off the mounting studs. Remember to keep the UCA shims together for each side and put them back in the same location after you're done. Not too hard to get the bushings out of the UCA, or you can take them to an automotive machine shop, most can handle it.

i used a socket big enough for the head to go into, and pressed them out with a big c-clamp when i did mine.
worked great, even with close to 300k.
got the new bolts and nuts through the dealer.
i remember something about buying 4 bolts,
and having to buy 10 nuts.

jvette65 wrote:

You don't have to pull the steering box...... remove the bolt at the upper column and the bolt at the rag joint. The intermediate steering shaft can then be collapsed and pulled up, giving you access room to slide the UCA off the mounting studs.

Thanks, I tried that 1st, the thing wouldnt collapse at all. Didnt try it now that its out but its good to know my 1st thought SHOULD have worked.

laidlow91 wrote:

i used a socket big enough for the head to go into, and pressed them out with a big c-clamp when i did mine.
worked great, even with close to 300k.

Thanks, but now that the a-arms are out I wont bother with the bolts their fine.
Its the a arm bushings that look tough

sdstick wrote:

jvette65 wrote:

You don't have to pull the steering box...... remove the bolt at the upper column and the bolt at the rag joint. The intermediate steering shaft can then be collapsed and pulled up, giving you access room to slide the UCA off the mounting studs.

Thanks, I tried that 1st, the thing wouldnt collapse at all. Didnt try it now that its out but its good to know my 1st thought SHOULD have worked.

laidlow91 wrote:

i used a socket big enough for the head to go into, and pressed them out with a big c-clamp when i did mine.
worked great, even with close to 300k.

Thanks, but now that the a-arms are out I wont bother with the bolts their fine.
Its the a arm bushings that look tough

You can take a hammer or air chisel with a flat nose & hit (or buzz) the head of that straight knurled upper control arm stud as if your trying to install them. This will break the rust bond. Then thread two nuts onto each of the threaded stud to protect the threads, slide a deep socket over the nuts, & tap and/or rock them after soaking with PB or TriZoil. No muss, no fuss. If they dont fall into your hand at this point, at least now they come out VERY easily with the above described method using a C-clamp on the nut protected inboard side and a short socket on the outboard side. With those studs out, it's also much easier to clean up & paint that area so that it doesn't look so "crusty-corner-ish"

You OBVIOUSLY didnt know "crusty-corner-ish" is this cars middle name
The pass side was much more of a beeatch due to AC lines & tank vent lines
I got it tho & chances are pretty good this car will die with those bolts rusted in.
If that time comes disassembly will be in a more logical progression..

Had you been more of a man, you would have done the ROSS-OFF. And been done with it.

Aaaahh....ya.....I've been meaning to talk to you about that..... j/k

Bring it, oh and that "honda mower" when you come.