White powdery residue

During the revamp of Matts car, I pulled the stock exhaust manifolds
#3&5, 2& 8 valve stems (as viewed thru the open exhaust port) are distinctly white
Anyone tell me what this is?

Cocaines a powerful drug.

sdstick wrote:

During the revamp of Matts car, I pulled the stock exhaust manifolds
#3&5, 2& 8 valve stems (as viewed thru the open exhaust port) are distinctly white
Anyone tell me what this is?

Is that what you kids are calling it these days.

sdstick wrote:

During the revamp of Matts car, I pulled the stock exhaust manifolds
#3&5, 2& 8 valve stems (as viewed thru the open exhaust port) are distinctly white
Anyone tell me what this is?

How did #s 1, 7, 4, & 6 look? Can you take photos & use the macro setting on the camera/phone? I some times forget to chose that pre-set. I usually use a mirror to photograph around corners. On a properly tuned (OEM stock) LT1, very light tan (almost white) is considered normal. Sooty or flat black is running rich & shiny or wet black is trouble. Usually from either: oil control ring failure, damaged cylinder walls, valve guides worn beyond .0025", or intake gasket leaks letting engine vacuum suck crankcase oil into the combustion chambers. Also examine the air injection system, although I doubt its the cause. Are the backs of the ex valves smooth or built up with carbon deposits? Coolant could also cause localized whitish discoloration, but those specific locations make me wonder, is there a bunch of little light colored "nodes" present? How does it smell? Let us know what you find. It is good to know that some people still take stuff apart while remembering to observe symptoms & carefully think about what they are doing!

Yes that's what they call it

Machine-De-Zine wrote:

sdstick wrote:

During the revamp of Matts car, I pulled the stock exhaust manifolds
#3&5, 2& 8 valve stems (as viewed thru the open exhaust port) are distinctly white
Anyone tell me what this is?

How did #s 1, 7, 4, & 6 look? Can you take photos & use the macro setting on the camera/phone? I some times forget to chose that pre-set. I usually use a mirror to photograph around corners. On a properly tuned (OEM stock) LT1, very light tan (almost white) is considered normal. Sooty or flat black is running rich & shiny or wet black is trouble. Usually from either: oil control ring failure, damaged cylinder walls, valve guides worn beyond .0025", or intake gasket leaks letting engine vacuum suck crankcase oil into the combustion chambers. Also examine the air injection system, although I doubt its the cause. Are the backs of the ex valves smooth or built up with carbon deposits? Coolant could also cause localized whitish discoloration, but those specific locations make me wonder, is there a bunch of little light colored "nodes" present? How does it smell? Let us know what you find. It is good to know that some people still take stuff apart while remembering to observe symptoms & carefully think about what they are doing!

Who IS this guy???? ^^^^^^^ Where'd he explode from, all of a sudden? And when do we get to meet him?

I say mod day at your house, man. And soon!

toomanytoyz wrote:

Machine-De-Zine wrote:

sdstick wrote:

During the revamp of Matts car, I pulled the stock exhaust manifolds
#3&5, 2& 8 valve stems (as viewed thru the open exhaust port) are distinctly white
Anyone tell me what this is?

How did #s 1, 7, 4, & 6 look? Can you take photos & use the macro setting on the camera/phone? I some times forget to chose that pre-set. I usually use a mirror to photograph around corners. On a properly tuned (OEM stock) LT1, very light tan (almost white) is considered normal. Sooty or flat black is running rich & shiny or wet black is trouble. Usually from either: oil control ring failure, damaged cylinder walls, valve guides worn beyond .0025", or intake gasket leaks letting engine vacuum suck crankcase oil into the combustion chambers. Also examine the air injection system, although I doubt its the cause. Are the backs of the ex valves smooth or built up with carbon deposits? Coolant could also cause localized whitish discoloration, but those specific locations make me wonder, is there a bunch of little light colored "nodes" present? How does it smell? Let us know what you find. It is good to know that some people still take stuff apart while remembering to observe symptoms & carefully think about what they are doing!

Who IS this guy???? ^^^^^^^ Where'd he explode from, all of a sudden? And when do we get to meet him?

I say mod day at your house, man. And soon!

Yes, it's kind of strange

Pics of the condition FYI


This is what caught my eye


Texture of the dark vs white is negligible. White MAY be a little more coarse.
This IS a high mileage motor & although its not crisp, it runs fine (or did until the day I pulled the plates)

hmm, i would guess lean, but probably not. What the plug look like.

Plugs look fine. No difference between white & non-white cylinders.
Never used additives with this car except Pennzoil Marine® Full Synthetic 2-Cycle Oil (approved NMMA TC-W3® oil.) 1 oz per 5 Gal in the tank.
I have made it gargle with throttle body cleaner before but maybe twice in 5 years
I'm not afraid of this, just wondered if anyone had ever seen it before.

Whats the 2 stroke oil suppose to do? I do work at a marine, have barrels of the stuff.

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91206

toomanytoyz wrote:

Machine-De-Zine wrote:

sdstick wrote:

During the revamp of Matts car, I pulled the stock exhaust manifolds
#3&5, 2& 8 valve stems (as viewed thru the open exhaust port) are distinctly white
Anyone tell me what this is?

How did #s 1, 7, 4, & 6 look? Can you take photos & use the macro setting on the camera/phone? I some times forget to chose that pre-set. I usually use a mirror to photograph around corners. On a properly tuned (OEM stock) LT1, very light tan (almost white) is considered normal. Sooty or flat black is running rich & shiny or wet black is trouble. Usually from either: oil control ring failure, damaged cylinder walls, valve guides worn beyond .0025", or intake gasket leaks letting engine vacuum suck crankcase oil into the combustion chambers. Also examine the air injection system, although I doubt its the cause. Are the backs of the ex valves smooth or built up with carbon deposits? Coolant could also cause localized whitish discoloration, but those specific locations make me wonder, is there a bunch of little light colored "nodes" present? How does it smell? Let us know what you find. It is good to know that some people still take stuff apart while remembering to observe symptoms & carefully think about what they are doing!

Who IS this guy???? ^^^^^^^ Where'd he explode from, all of a sudden? And when do we get to meet him?

I say mod day at your house, man. And soon!

LOL

I think he might be one of those individuals with an insane car you see driving by once in a while, but you never see them in person to invite them to the forum.

sdstick wrote:

Plugs look fine. No difference between white & non-white cylinders.
Never used additives with this car except Pennzoil Marine® Full Synthetic 2-Cycle Oil (approved NMMA TC-W3® oil.) 1 oz per 5 Gal in the tank.
I have made it gargle with throttle body cleaner before but maybe twice in 5 years
I'm not afraid of this, just wondered if anyone had ever seen it before.

The question I have is "Ok, the white ones look fine, but what about the black ones?" Well, the excellent photos included show that the "non-white valves" are also in the range of normal for an older higher mile car. I would expect this range of color variation, considering that all 8 injectors are not likely to be outputting exactly the same amount of fuel or in identical spray patterns either. There could be other contributing variables here, such as some slight parts clearance related oil inclusion (valve guide wear), but overall, things look well enough. You may want to remove, test and compare each individual injector for performance and balance. It was noted that all the plugs looked ok, but sometimes a bad distributor or wire/s can "cheat" some of the cylinders selectively of the combustion spark it requires. Picture an old points type distributor with one of the 8 lobes on the shaft that opens the contacts worn down. I find that its better to explore MORE than is necessary, then "narrow down", than it is to be "too brief" and miss something, just so long as you hold back a minute before rushing in with repairs and evaluate with careful awareness of the big picture. There is ALWAYS some price to be paid for actions made in haste! Consider the expense of the fix against the value & importance of the vehicle. The old (COST vs BENEFIT analysis). Some people seemed programmed to keep pace with the "mad rush" as our world seems to be spiraling up and out of sight, but there is so much more to be learned by patient thoughtful deliberation on these "broken-car" encounters. Nobody ever gets the correct answers before stopping to figure out which are the right questions. B.T.W. That Pennzoil 100% Synthetic 2 cycle-Oil additive suggestion is VERY compelling & I intend to investigate, Thanks for the heads-up!

The game plan for this car is in my frame off (but only a little) thread.
My son who wont drive for 1-1/2 yrs will start with this car.
I refuse (& fight my inner need constantly ) to put a motor in this car until he learns to drive & maintain properly. I'm making sure its sound BUT not to fast.
I was getting the cold start lifter tick which is begging me to refresh the valvetrain.
I will not remove the heads for reasons above.
If I pull the intake, I'll do lifters, pushrods, rockers & springs.
I'm on the fence.

Lots of good info above.

But for what the car is, I'd leave it how it is. It seems to be running pretty good, and there is nothing in those pics that is overly concerning. You could put a set of stock valvesprings springs in it if you wanted, and get the injectors serviced, but why bother? The valvesprings will help with the valve float, but maybe that's good for a first car. The injectors might be a good idea though... Wait til he gets a job and decides to "upgrade" it.

^^Thats the voice of reason^^
The motor was sufficient for me as a DD. It'll be more then fine for his 1st.
If he doesnt like it I'll tell him Crovo has made his decision & its final.