Undercarriage winterizing

I am going to drive the Buick through the winter. I would like to take care of the rust that is starting under the car.

As you can see it's pretty clean.





I am trying to prevent further corrosion. I do not want to spend a bunch of money on POR 15. I would like to know some CHEAP alternatives to this. I don't want to do the entire car. I just want to sand down the spots that are bad (no paint) and spray something over it. Maybe give the floors a light sanding to knock off all the tiny orange spots. What should I use (that is readily available and fairly cheap) to spray under it? Rustoleum spray paint? Should I use anything on the bare metal before I cover it with a spray? Should I give the frame a light sanding and coat of paint too? Thanks for any suggestions. I do wash my car frequently in the winter and go through undercarriage washes at least once a week.

Chainsaw OIL.

I have loads of used motor oil... what if I put that in a spray bottle and go to town?

it will be dirty as hell my grandad used to do it.

OK so I was thinking.

Sand everything down, use a metal primer, then spray the frame axle and suspension semi gloss black rustoleum. Then spray the floors with a color that sort of matches the color it is now. Sand down and spray the tank straps and heat shields silver. I'm not talking a 3 month project where i remove everything I could do this in a day or two and it would help resist corrosion.

Power wash bottom

napa undercoat (3 cans)

jack stands

face mask

goggles

respirator

spray like a mad man

http://www.cosmolinedirect.com/

What you need to do if you don't want to waste your time...(within reason)

You will have to degrease, wash down, then grind the undercarriage with a wire wheel for a cordless drill or a right angle grinder. That will get all the rust out of the pits and things like that. A 3M rust stripper wheel will work nice as well if you have some bad spots, but I think you will be fine if you just use the wire one. You can work piecemeal and just do the rust spots, of course.

After blasting it with the hose to get all the dust, rust, etc. off, you can paint once it's dry. If there is still any rust that worries you, hit it with some Naval Jelly, then blast that off after 15 minutes or so.

If It were me, I would use that silver master series paint that I did the rear end of my truck with. That way you can skip the Naval Jelly. Rust essentially "dies" under it because oxygen cannot pass through the aluminum oxide in the paint, which floats to the top after it's dry. It doesn't peel off either. You can scratch it, and the rust will literally not travel under the paint on each side of the scratch. It's insane.

POR15 is overpriced and not very good, you have to prep the surface just right or it falls off, and it is also UV sensitive so you will have to paint over it anyway. Even then it's not all it's cracked up to be. That Master Series stuff I used, Rust Bullet, or Chassis Saver is what you want if you paint and want it to last! You can even find a chassis black version of any of those (I think Billy did his car parts with it for the wagon) and just paint with that stuff after grinding down the rust spots.

You can also use the Rustoleum that comes in the quart (?) cans. I did that before, it probably isn't as strong though. I am thinking of trying the Rustoleum aluminum paint for certain projects, my father has always used that for primer on all kinds of stuff, even painting wood on houses. The paint job can last for decades if you do that, lol.

Spray paint will not save anything, it doesn't adhere as well and is strictly a topcoat for touching up and cosmetics, that's why spraying a house with one of those Wagner guns doesn't last very long. You will need to brush the paint on. Also, Rustoleum gloss black in the spray cans is not the same formulation as the paint that comes in the quarts and gallons you brush with! The brush stuff is thicker. You can use the spray as a finish coat, but I would only use the black "Professional" Rustoleum that comes in the taller silver cans.

The thing with the Rustoleum is you're going to spend like 20 bucks on all the paint anyway for what you're doing. That silver rust proof primer is like 30 bucks, and all you have to do is paint it once or twice, then spray bomb it black, then walk away. The can goes a long damn way too. If I were doing my truck again, I would use this stuff instead of the Rustoleum, because I plan on keeping the truck.

After you have what you want painted...painted...you can undercoat. 3m "Professional Undercoating" is the good shit! It is pretty tough once it's dry. It has a nice looking texture too, it looks like Line-X. Mar-hyde sucks, I used that and it takes forever to dry, peels off, smells terrible, and runs everywhere. It's like diesel fuel with paint in it. I've never used the NAPA stuff so I have no opinion on it, but I would google and see who makes Napa's undercoat, maybe it's 3M!

Rustoleum sells an undercoat at Wal-Fart but it seemed like flat black paint that had micro-beads of rubber that looked like sand in it. It has nothing on 3M.

I would undercoat the floor pans and frame rails, etc, and paint the hell out of the rear-end and such parts with gloss black paint. I used to think gloss black would look silly and too shiny, but satin/flat collects too much dirt and you can't spray the salt off of it.


I even went the extra mile on my truck's rear end after it was all installed and painted, I used up a can of Rustoleum wheel clearcoating and bombed the whole thing, including the brake lines and backing plates. Dirt barely sticks to it, and even if it does get dirty, I can wash it.



Don't spray undercoat over any rust, even surface rust. The rust will still "grow" under it, spread all over the place without you seeing it, and in addition to that, nothing really sticks to rust other than the paints that "kill" it because it's forever changing in texture as the metal oxidizes.

Of course, everything depends on if this is a beater you're keeping for one year, or want to preserve it. I'd say just using some brush Rustoleum and topping with undercoat after a nice prepping job will be a nice medium.

Also, if you use Rustoleum, use that red oxide "Rusty Metal Primer" first, or maybe even as a coat of paint for undercoating over if you want. When i did the truck, I used that, satin black paint afterward for some bite, then sprayed my undercoating.

mean ss wrote:

http://www.cosmolinedirect.com/

LOL, my friends' Romanian AK-47 was still packed in that when he got it. So was this:



http://www.motortopia.com/files/6360/journal/46fd0b4072b69/buried_plymouth_belvedere.jpg

That thing is junk. They could have done a better job sealing it.

Wire brush off the rust as best you can
Hit with rust converter (turns rust black)
AZ rubberized undercoat ($3.99/can)
You'll be fine. This is a 1/2 day job, no big deal.

lol, after 40+ years under a street what do you expect?

If you really want it to last then seperate the frame from the body. Then have the frame powder coated. Then get the body chrome dipped. It'll be purty forever and ever. Mainly cause you'll only ever see it once and it'll be burned into your retinas

I don't know about you but, I don't have the money for that. I am looking to spend like $30-40 on this whole thing and do it in 1-2 days time not months. I don't need it to last forever. I just want it to be protected for the winter.

Wire wheel to clean it all up. Some roll-on/spray-on bedliner to cover. Or just use a few cans of the patio furniture paint. It'll last you through the winter with no problem. Won't last 2 winters, but the car may not either

Are you against the undercoat?
Because thats the quickest/easiest way to assure yourself a winter free of rust.
Sounds like your leaning towards just paint so it looks kinda factory
The rust converter when used properly does buy you time
You can paint over that if youre thinking undercoat makes future buyers think your hiding something

If you just want to winterize it, just have the underside oiled, as mentioned above. It won't rot. Just don't park it on my driveway for a couple weeks.

Hi Tim

Mark Ross has the idea!

This is your winter car right? Not a show car, but you want to preserve it--Bar and Chain Oil. Scraping, wire brushing and painting it, is just too much work for a winter car. The old time northeast guys (older than me) use that oil, they heat it up and spray it underneath. Ever pick up a piece of metal that has been outside for a few years, but has an oily finish? Wipe off the oil and the metal is like new; that's what you are doing.

I do it to my two daily drivers, once a year. One of my brother's bought me a Wagner power sprayer about 25 years ago. I never used it, until about 5 or 6 years ago. I spay both cars and dilute the oil with mystery oil a little. It is real easy to spray and in a half hour both are done. It takes less than a gallon of oil and if I remember about $10. One car is a 98 CV and the other is a 03 Grand Marquis, no signs of rust on either.

Tom C.

toomanytoyz wrote:

Just don't park it on my driveway for a couple weeks.

Free Seal Coating!

When I undercoated the wagon, I bought a 3M waffle wheel, buzzed the whole car and got all the crusty shit off. It was brown, but clean. I used 4 cans out of a case of 6 of Transtar rubberized undercoat. cost me $42 for the case, obviously you wont need as many cans as me since you only have a sedan to cover. But those 4 cans did the entire frame, all of the floorpans, and the wheelwells. Took me about 2 hours on Doug's lift.

Cadet57 wrote:

When I undercoated the wagon, I bought a 3M waffle wheel, buzzed the whole car and got all the crusty shit off. It was brown, but clean. I used 4 cans out of a case of 6 of Transtar rubberized undercoat. cost me $42 for the case, obviously you wont need as many cans as me since you only have a sedan to cover. But those 4 cans did the entire frame, all of the floorpans, and the wheelwells. Took me about 2 hours on Doug's lift.

my 67 firebird was undercoated and that car had more rust than any car I ever had

mean ss wrote:

Cadet57 wrote:

When I undercoated the wagon, I bought a 3M waffle wheel, buzzed the whole car and got all the crusty shit off. It was brown, but clean. I used 4 cans out of a case of 6 of Transtar rubberized undercoat. cost me $42 for the case, obviously you wont need as many cans as me since you only have a sedan to cover. But those 4 cans did the entire frame, all of the floorpans, and the wheelwells. Took me about 2 hours on Doug's lift.

my 67 firebird was undercoated and that car had more rust than any car I ever had

My hope is that from here on in its just maintenance. The car was pretty solid when I bought it. Even if I have to touch up the undercoat every year or two, its better than replacing pieces of frame, isn't that right Crovo?

Chainsaw OIL,

LOL I don't want to spray a bunch of rubber undercoating under the car. I think that stuff is crap. It makes the undercarriage a black abyss and when it comes time to replace things its just in the way. My Caprice was undercoated at some point and there is rust forming underneath it. I will probably take the time to buzz off the rust and paint it with a brush or something. If it takes me a few days of my time thats fine.

M.ROSS wrote:

Chainsaw OIL,

Broken record much

sdstick wrote:

Wire brush off the rust as best you can
Hit with rust converter (turns rust black)
AZ rubberized undercoat ($3.99/can)
You'll be fine. This is a 1/2 day job, no big deal.

Do as Steve says. For what you are using the car for, this is the best and cost effective solution.

mean ss wrote:

my 67 firebird was undercoated and that car had more rust than any car I ever had

Bet it was that Dealer applied thick crap that dries out after a year or 2 & the rust starts under it & because its trapped spreads like crazy?
This cheap AZ stuff sprays on easy & relatively thin. Dries fast......but Tim says no so there you go.
I just dont have the patience anymore to lay on my back under a car & chase rust.

OR

You could use

CHAINSAW OIL (friggin turn on all the lumberjacks when you go north )

When i change the oil in the cougar I just take what i have and use the nasty rag to wipe down whatever I can reach, thats about as a far as i'll go for that thing. but its kept it all looking nice-ish seeing as it looks crappy already anyway.

My way's easier. Buy a car with a bad oil pan gasket and blown rear main seal. Then just keep driving it without bothering to fix anything. Works great

bammax wrote:

My way's easier. Buy a car with a bad oil pan gasket and blown rear main seal. Then just keep driving it without bothering to fix anything. Works great

I like this idea....lol

I repeat, undercoating will not stick if rust is under there, and spray paint, while it will look good for a week, will NOT last more than a couple weeks in the winter aside from being used as a cosmetic topcoat. It will both peel off and also have any rust seep through. Even if you get the rust out of the pits in the rust spots so it's all shiny, it's actually still there and will come back very fast unless you use an agent that chemically changes it, or blocks oxidation such as the special paints I mentioned.

It sounds like from what you want to do, I would just grind the rust spots, treat them with a rust converter or Naval Jelly (One Step is the best rust converter, a google search will turn something up most likely), then paint the entire floor pans with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer and topcoat that with some flat or satin black and/or rubberized undercoat OVER the new paint. Undercoat will not last unless the metal is painted first!!! I realize you don't want to undercoat, but I would highly recommend it on the floor pans and frame. This is how my wheelwells look after I clean them up:

OK so I went and bought a wire brush, some gloss black and gloss gray spray paint. I know it won't last forever but as long as it lasts the winter I'm good with that. I'm not entering this in a lowrider car show with mirrors under it and stuff so I missed some spots and its not perfect but I'm happy. It's not done I only did from the rear axle back. Still need some touch up back there but its looking better!

Some before pics



That frame brace makes a good on your back maneuvering bar!













Wire brushed







Some paint









To be continued....

Dude drop the gas tank and sandblast everything you pussy

This is my winter beater so I am not going to take the time to remove anything. I also am doing this in my driveway so I can't have it in pieces while I am doing it!

Looks good Tim.

CHAINSAW OIL

mean ss wrote:

Dude drop the gas tank and sandblast everything you pussy

amen, sandblasters are our friends!!! Little black beauty and she'll be beautiful!

M.ROSS wrote:

CHAINSAW OIL

You live in the frakin city, what do you know about a chainsaw?

I can't use oil. I don't live in the country where my driveway is dirt or I have grass to park on. I share a driveway with people in my building and nobody wants to see 20 puddles on oil.

Did you only do the rear because you didn't have to jack it up because of the air shocks???

GasTT wrote:

....... I share a driveway with people in my building and nobody wants to see 20 puddles on oil.

Guess I couldnt live THERE! You just eliminated 2/3 of my vehicles
BTW, it probably only drips for a short period of time ( just until the excess runs off) the oil COATS the metal (like the commercials)
I see youve got everything under control tho.
Next spring you'll know if that method was worth it.

toomanytoyz wrote:

Did you only do the rear because you didn't have to jack it up because of the air shocks???

Lol, someone really doesn't like the "phuck me in the ass" look haha

1984twodoor wrote:

toomanytoyz wrote:

Did you only do the rear because you didn't have to jack it up because of the air shocks???

Lol, someone really doesn't like the "phuck me in the ass" look haha

Which is saying something considering he drives a wagon. That just screams "I love me a big ol booty"

What does that say about me....

Cadet57 wrote:

1984twodoor wrote:

toomanytoyz wrote:

Did you only do the rear because you didn't have to jack it up because of the air shocks???

Lol, someone really doesn't like the "phuck me in the ass" look haha

Which is saying something considering he drives a wagon. That just screams "I love me a big ol booty"

What does that say about me....

it says time to quit the sonic chili cheese tots


....i have to too lol, its worse for me its in my own town

1984twodoor wrote:

it says time to quit the sonic chili cheese tots


....i have to too lol, its worse for me its in my own town

Dood you aint kidding. I love those dam things. I was at the one in Peabody a couple weeks ago. Last time we went to the Reading one it took them 3 tries to get our order right

The Wilmington one is alright, but it takes for efffing ever to have your food brought to you. Even just one drink. But I do like the extra large tub O' tots

1984twodoor wrote:

The Wilmington one is alright, but it takes for efffing ever to have your food brought to you. Even just one drink. But I do like the extra large tub O' tots

I know where i'm stopping on the way home for my "driving home" drink

Cadet57 wrote:

1984twodoor wrote:

The Wilmington one is alright, but it takes for efffing ever to have your food brought to you. Even just one drink. But I do like the extra large tub O' tots

I know where i'm stopping on the way home for my "driving home" drink

Well...lets be honest...there's too much driving to have just a drink. You better make it a pit stop and get some tots

1984twodoor wrote:

Cadet57 wrote:

1984twodoor wrote:

The Wilmington one is alright, but it takes for efffing ever to have your food brought to you. Even just one drink. But I do like the extra large tub O' tots

I know where i'm stopping on the way home for my "driving home" drink

Well...lets be honest...there's too much driving to have just a drink. You better make it a pit stop and get some tots

Lol, this after eating at Holy Grail. Good thing I have my work on speed dial. If I go, I want to be buried in the wagon!

Put it in vertically so that the big ass doubles as a headstone.

1984twodoor wrote:

Put it in vertically so that the big ass doubles as a headstone.

And the tail lights can serve as marker lights

Cadet57 wrote:

1984twodoor wrote:

Put it in vertically so that the big ass doubles as a headstone.

And the tail lights can serve as marker lights

PERFECT! I love it!

we should probably stop jacking this thread now lol...sorry folks