Window Regulator Job

I replaced the broken plastic "rollers" on one door earlier in the week (with the updated round "buttons") and am doing a second door now.

I was following this thread here since I am a first-timer with this job:
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=232364

Now, this fellow has you trying to open up the crimped ends of the tracks in order to get the sliders out and the window free. I found this to be infuriating because there is no leverage to be had.

On the second window I decided just to pop the rollers/roller pieces off of the ball studs first, then remove the whole track with rollers still in it. That allowed me to put the track in a vise where I had all kind of access to make uncrimping the ends simple.

Maybe you all already do it that way, but I figured it doesn't hurt anything to make a thread.

Good heads up!

I've never done it. But never considered your specific situation.

I had 1 caprice that needed them done in the rear. Sold it like that.

My 9C1, manual windows. Probably wont ever have an issue.

MASShole9C1 wrote:

Good heads up!

I've never done it. But never considered your specific situation.

I had 1 caprice that needed them done in the rear. Sold it like that.

My 9C1, manual windows. Probably wont ever have an issue.

Manual windows are the way to go, simple and no bullshit!

I've had two broken windows since I got the car last fall.  I didn't have the time or desire to do what I expected to be a shitty job until now, since I have the summer off.  Overall, the job isn't so terrible.  I've had enough access for everything, even the 2" clamps to get the new rollers on.  The job hasn't even drawn blood.  I also notice that on these cars GM was kind enough to round off the edges of the sheetmetal under the door panel, around all the access holes.  On older GM cars I have found these edges to be SHARP and still have a scar from getting sliced badly when I was in college.

I hate the idea of applying new lube to dirty old channels, arms, and other window components.  I found that a #0000 steel wool pad with some carb cleaner sprayed on it very quickly cleans all of these parts.  Once they are clean and dry I lube the contact points with a silicone gel that I got in a large tube from NAPA years ago.  Seems to work well.

Sadly these two door panels have been damaged by mechanics or owners pulling on them so hard that the plastic that holds the Christmas tree clips in just tore away.  That sucks when you are down two fasteners; guaranteed loose panel.

And how the Hell do people Dynamat door panels?  There are so many rivets, sheetmetal pieces, connecting rods etc. in the way it seems like it would be a royal pain in the balls to lay sound deadening material.

I always just pried em open in the door. Either a regular pair of pliers or small channel locks work good. Like a 10 minute job to do those damn things now. I did all 4 doors in the fleetwood, at the storage unit, in about half hour... Don't know if that's good or bad.

toomanytoyz wrote:

I always just pried em open in the door. Either a regular pair of pliers or small channel locks work good. ;)Like a 10 minute job to do those damn things now. I did all 4 doors in the fleetwood, at the storage unit, in about half hour... Don't know if that's good or bad.

It takes you that little time to remove the panel, drill the rivets, pop the old rollers off the balls, clean and grease the parts, press on the new rollers, line up the track with the window frame, rivet or bolt it into place and reinstall the panel?! Do you have a sombrero and speed blur around you as you work?

I have a drawer stuffed with all kinds of pliers and none of them were making uncrimping the channel ends any fun. There is no space to apply leverage and any force you do apply to the channel causes it and the regulator arms to twist, reducing the force on the crimps. I mean, I'm only on my second one of these, but in my experience the in-door uncrimping was a major ball sucker and I don't see why doing it that way makes more sense than just popping the channel off with rollers intact and taking it to the bench/vise.

I've bent the channel and also cut 'em with a dremel. No need for drilling the rivets. The rollers don't don't go anywhere the end of the channel during normal operation and it's OK if you destroy the ends. I don't try to open 'em but just bend them down enough to get the old roller out. You don't need most of the tools in that thread.

boojum wrote:

I've bent the channel and also cut 'em with a dremel. No need for drilling the rivets. The rollers don't don't go anywhere the end of the channel during normal operation and it's OK if you destroy the ends. I don't try to open 'em but just bend them down enough to get the old roller out. You don't need most of the tools in that thread.

If you don't drill the rivets that means you leave the channel in-place for the whole job?

Bull wrote:

boojum wrote:

I've bent the channel and also cut 'em with a dremel. No need for drilling the rivets. The rollers don't don't go anywhere the end of the channel during normal operation and it's OK if you destroy the ends. I don't try to open 'em but just bend them down enough to get the old roller out. You don't need most of the tools in that thread.

If you don't drill the rivets that means you leave the channel in-place for the whole job?  

That's what I have done, it's a PITA, but saves a lot of time.

Bull wrote:

If you don't drill the rivets that means you leave the channel in-place for the whole job?

Yes, I don't even know how to take it out.

boojum wrote:

Bull wrote:

If you don't drill the rivets that means you leave the channel in-place for the whole job?  

Yes, I don't even know how to take it out.

X2. Me neither.

Ah, I see. So I just happened to find and follow a thread from a guy who made the job longer.

Bull wrote:

Ah, I see.  So I just happened to find and follow a thread from a guy who made the job longer.

Apparently so. Doh!

I guess I'm in the bend the channel in place group  
Although if its front window rollers I'm replacing I pop the one remaining one off the regulator and pull the glass out so I can work on it outside the car. The front glass is super easy to remove, the rear is a real bitch.

I've been in a hurray & decided to hack it in place

Didnt make me comfortable but it was a necessity

Its way easier if you have time to disconnect & do it right.

Better job too.....if your keeping the vehicle (that eliminates 90% of the above posters... )