shudder

Indigo brings up a good point on the O2s. When it runs like crap have someone watch the exhaust and lay into it. If you get black sooty exhaust there's a good chance an O2 went out. Had that happen on my 94 RMW, would intermittently cut in and out of open loop. When it went into closed loop it would blow sooty exhaust and almost stall. You can't delete the front O2's, they are vital to making the engine run right.

If you unplug the coolant sensor it will force the computer to run in open loop. That will put it in a mode that doesn't rely on a bunch of sensors to run. Try driving it like that and see how it does.

ill go try the temp sensor thing now. gotta go to store anyways.

ok temp sensor is good, pulled the connector, check engine light came on and ran worse. it almost is like theres water in opti when i get rpms up its fine go to idle and try to take off it shudders. no black smoke either

Shuddering at idle sounds like a vac leak, but could be other things. A couple big spots to check are the elbow coming off the PCV valve. All of my cars were rotted and 2 of them had ripped open. Also check on the PS side of the throttle body. I have seen the big hose going to the EVAP solenoid split.

replaced all of those hoses last week. its not shuddering at idle only part throttle. idles great wot is great just partial throttle.And yes I double checked all the hoses again.

I'm out of ideas, haven't had that problem (yet) myself.

im stillleaning toward that opti. seems that it was almost 60 today and it ran a bit better, i also got my hand behind the opti, a tiny bit of wet oil was on my finger, so prolly is leaking into opti.

ohmed the tps today seems to be ok as well, what are the fuel injectors supposed to be at for ohms. want to check them as well just in case. i am thinking they should be around 16.7 ohms am i correct.

ok ohmed the fuel injectors. they all ohm out from 12.6- 13.1 and majority of them are 12.8. so seems there fine since there all within .5 of each other. how would i test the egr solinoid?

found the problem, the iac is frozen wontmove.

While you have the TB off, make sure you repair or replace the PCV connection under there.
ALWAYS loose (& inaccessible)
Even if you crank a clamp on there
Unfortunately, they are hard rubber, not sure if thats age or design.
If its age watch out, could be brittle

remove the tb lol. i squeezed my arse in there and got it off. but tommorow when i get the part in not one around here, ill get a tb gasket and take it off wouldnt hurt to clean it. damn mexican parts lol. and yes i spent some money on a good one. almost a hundred bucks for it. you would have to explain the pcv connection though, never seen it and the metal tube coming out has no play.

What did you spend $100 on IAC?
As far as the PCV follow the pipe on the drivers side from PCV valve to where it disappears under the TB
When you remove the TB you'll see a 90 degree rubber connection on a port in the intake.
If its loose as hell, replace that90 deg hose (or clamp it).
No big deal but you cant get at it any other time

mega wrote:

found the problem, the iac is frozen wontmove.

IAC's are'nt supposed to move easy, in fact you can damge them if you physicially force them. You need to use the output control on a Scan-tool, or an IAC motor driver (GM tool).

yes iac was almost a hundred and i was told to push the pintle down, if it dont bottom out its trash. this car is really pushing my last nerve.

Ummm...didnt you say it idled fine?

yes it idles fine but i was told to look at it at least and as last post stated tested it by pushing on pintle. thats what im going by. so no what. ef it 2000 some one take it.

OK...easy does it.
As you get mad you get harder to understand.
DO NOT sell the part at a loss like that.
Take the TB off & clean it thoroughly (assuming you've never done this).
You've thrown a part (IAC) at it...so be it...install it.
Do you know the reset procedure? google it.
If you get nowhere, I'll find it for you.
One thing at a time.
Personally, any shudder I ever had was electrical.
I'll go back but are your plugs & wires relatively new?

plugs and wires are pretty new less than 4 k on em, and reason i belive iac is because if it fails and stays open it can crated a internal vacume leak. and the few vidos and reading i could find say to disconnect battery while doing it, then after install button it all up, and drive over 45 mph at a constant speed for comp to learn new part. if im wrong steve please tell me. also i did do a ohm test on it but im not to happy with my numbers so im gonna do it again but it had .5 ohm in it at the 20k nob, and when i ohmed it with one on a pin and another on a bolt like another test said came up 0. in the reading and vids they say it sould have no less than 20 ohm and up to 13 ohm doing the bolt test. so even if it aint the problem a new one will be better than the old one. I am confident ill find the problem It just aggrivated the hell outta me epecially turning a wrench with a broken finger.

This is why I own 4 cars. When one is broken and hopeless or being modded, Its not too big of a headache

id have more cars to but one parking spot at my condo, they tell me im not allowed to open the hood on the property to. i hate cape cod so much lol.

mega wrote:

id have more cars to but one parking spot at my condo, they tell me im not allowed to open the hood on the property to. i hate cape cod so much lol.

When I had a condo in Attelboro, I was adding a K&N air filter to my Impala SS. A guy from across the way, made it a point to come over to me, and tell me I could not work on my car there. Take it to a garage to get it fixed. I said it was no broken, I was just replacing the air filter. He said I could not lift my hood on the property. I told him to get F#@*ed. I may or may not have threatened to shove him into a mail box or something like that. The Condo board sicked their attorneys on me a week later, and the condo was on the market the next day. Condos suck for car guys.

First of all, Al is right, you need to monitor the IAC counts & adjust TB blades etc to get it right. You cant do that (I'm assuming).

Try this:
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#iac_reset

Also...here's your resistance check.

http://shbox.com/1/iac2.jpg

Set your ohmeter to 200 Ohms to check this
Not sure where your getting your info (posted) but it's sketchy

yes they do, and to top it off the hospital bought the building in front on same property now they say i cant have a grill, hahahahah im grilling all summer.

thank you steve yes my numbers were way off but the meter dont lie the ohm are way off so it aint good. and the reset is better than the one i found. i will double check it again in morning but i think i had the meter on right. and your right i have no damn clue about it, most stuff on a older engine easy this one been boggling me since i got it.

fixt...... lets hope its the last fix for this problem lol.