The SSheriff (1996 9C1)

I think youve nailed it this time tho...

Those pics are slick....car looks perfect

Thank god it doesnt have paint, cuz if it looks THAT good without....DAMN!

Dude, I love it. I love the SS grille too. I liked the old setup but it just looks awesome on the front like that now.

Yes, seriously it looks kick-ass!

I'd leave it like that

Moooooooooooooog!

Lmao!!

Very true, but not at all practical for DD style usage. Function over form in that case.

BTW. Thanks for all the comments gents.

It finally rides the way it looks (f&@kin badass)

But, I thank, IIRC, crovo for posting the big board thread that had the PPMs for sale, and Jim for "passing" on them. Man I love PayPal!!!

Anywho. So, what's next?

I'd like to get an SS rear to build with a "taller" gear.

Brakes upgrade? Possibly.

Guess that depends...

Do you want to go faster?....or slower?...

I personally choose drivetrain over brakes but you dont SEE drivetrain & it CAN get you in trouble.

The rear is definitely my next step. I know it'll be tough finding an SS rear.

Maybe get a civi rear and swap backing plates from drum to disk? Idk.

I do want to get GOOD headers sometime in the near future. Something stainless in and out.

Heads and cam will come soon as well. I read soooo many different opinions and dyno/track results from many different combos. It's running little birds and stars around my head like a cartoon hahaha

MASShole9C1 wrote:

BTW. Thanks for all the comments gents.

It finally rides the way it looks (f&@kin badass)

But, I thank, IIRC, crovo for posting the big board thread that had the PPMs for sale, and Jim for "passing" on them. Man I love PayPal!!!

Anywho. So, what's next?

I'd like to get an SS rear to build with a "taller" gear.

Brakes upgrade? Possibly.

Going down to 3.42's or 3.73's?

Yes

...

...

Must've missed a punch line or something

Brian, may I suggest a 2.56 open rear end for the ultimate in fuel miserly driving experiences?

You know you want to.

Hahaha. No thanks.

The 3.08s are a good gear, but I'd like to step it up.

Thanks goes to Steve for fronting the money for, and sending me, the air dam pieces I was looking for.

Cleaned, installed, I'm happy now.

Going back to a thread I started about my hi beam indicator staying illuminated, I'm fairly certain now, that it has to do with whatever engages/cancels it at the stalk. I fooled with it last night while adjusting the tilt, turning the wheel, signals on etc and managed to turn it off twice. It's stuck on again. The "click" is ummm, lazy and smooth rather than sounding like cracking knuckles.

Also, for the fuel gauge/warning light, I did a lot of reading of symptoms and whatnot, after I put gas in the car and the gauge has stayed passed full for some time. I know I didn't put enough in it to be full to begin with. Here's the link that I feel sums up my problem
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=235185

I've got to do that with the wagon. It goes way past full and stays too high until about half a tank where it goes down dramatically after that point.

That just might be the magic fix. Finicky cars I tell ya!

MASShole9C1 wrote:

That just might be the magic fix. Finicky cars I tell ya!

I don't think they are that bad at all. 80's fuel injected turbo cars are finicky.

V8Killer wrote:

MASShole9C1 wrote:

That just might be the magic fix. Finicky cars I tell ya!

I don't think they are that bad at all. 80's fuel injected turbo cars are finicky.

My friend has a Merkur....I agree with all.


Though any older car will be finicky at times....but still not as bad as older turbo yuppie cars.

Nice job!

Did the '96 used to look like this Sheriff car?

Just to be safe (if you havent already)
Hold one end of that tubing into a pot of boiling water to see how it acts when hot
You really DONT want to find out the hard way

When I did this, I tie wrapped the tube down the backside of the lower rad hose & left it hanging out down low
Makes it a 2 second job to bleed...5 seconds if you add the DD coolata cup to catch the coolant...

Thanks, Steve.

Yes Al. But only after 1997. Before that it was owned by the Metro Transit Authority in the L.A. area. I have no idea what that looked like. I haven't found any pictures of the MTA cars before it was disbanded in '97.

Here's an SCRTD unit, before it became LACMTA in 1993:

Basically, next on my list are:

Not in any specific order

Headers
3.42 (in an SS rear end)
BIG brakes
S10 converter
Blue leather RMS rear seat (not the ones made from baby seal skin SMH)
Paint the hood
Possibly locate another LT1 to have rebuilt, painted, my aluminum heads machined and put on along with a moderate cam
Maybe bigger rims
SEM the center console 
Add overhead console with temp, heading, etc
Jerry's sequential kit
New HIDs

Possibly all done by late next summer. Moving might hinder some of that.

Whats the point of the TB bypass?

It's "supposed" to lower the air temperature coming into the TB.

Since the op temp coolant passes through the TB (from the steam pipe to the reservoir) it defeats the purpose of any CAI.

Given the chance, its a quick and simple mod where you basically run the steam pipe directly to the reservoir via the reservoir hose. Cap off the 2 unused ports on the TB to keep em clean, bleed the system, you're done.

Dyno numbers, again, supposedly add 5 HP with cooler air coming in as well as a crisper throttle.

If nothing else, it adds to your "mod belt".

The original design is to run the hot coolant through the TB to prevent the blades from icing. I don't drive in the winter and, our LT1s inject fuel AFTER the TB so there's no real chance of it happening anyway.

I've read that it doesn't do much, all the way to guys stating they'll do it to every car.

To each his own and it doesn't hurt anything.

MASShole9C1 wrote:

It's "supposed" to lower the air temperature coming into the TB.

Since the op temp coolant passes through the TB (from the steam pipe to the reservoir) it defeats the purpose of any CAI.

Given the chance, its a quick and simple mod where you basically run the steam pipe directly to the reservoir via the reservoir hose. Cap off the 2 unused ports on the TB to keep em clean, bleed the system, you're done.

Dyno numbers, again, supposedly add 5 HP with cooler air coming in as well as a crisper throttle.

If nothing else, it adds to your "mod belt".

The original design is to run the hot coolant through the TB to prevent the blades from icing. I don't drive in the winter and, our LT1s inject fuel AFTER the TB so there's no real chance of it happening anyway.

I've read that it doesn't do much, all the way to guys stating they'll do it to every car.

To each his own and it doesn't hurt anything.

According to GM, it's there to prevent icing of the throttle-body on super cold days, and to help with cold start emissions warm up.

I have my throttle-body bypassed on EVERY one of my vehicles, including the Buicks, and the Silverado. Good mod in my book

^ A testimonial from a real person, not an actor

Nothing monumentous to update.

I had a small electrical problem that left me with no headlights, causing me to use a jumper wire to get home at night.

https://badass-of-ne.forumotion.com/t5451-no-headlights

The dimmer switch was toast as was the connector and about 1 inch out, of the 4 wires going in to it.

I bought an OEM style connector and pig tail from vatozone for almost $30. Took 2 days to arrive.

I did have to repin the terminals as its a generic GM setup.

All white insulated wires too. It's made in USA by BWD and boasts a NASCAR logo on the box. It's connector # PT359 for anyone interested in the future.

The dimmer switch I got was about $8.00.

I've had no issues since (going on a week) with extra heat from that connector or the harness. Fingers crossed.

Since the already substandard factory wiring for the headlights, are almost 20 years old, I decided to upgrade.

I bought Gary's Innovative Wiring 2 relay plug and play headlight harness. A bit of change, but will help take the load off that switch.

http://innovativewiring.com/?page_id=232

Today I received a set of replacement, low beam only, 8k HIDs too replace my broken 6ks. This too, will decrease the load as the HID have a lesser current demand than the silverstars I've been using since March.

I plan to get Garry's battery cables that are used with the corvette starter as well.

http://innovativewiring.com/?page_id=175

I also purchased an OEM throttle linkage cover and a few other things.

Today I located a set of BBB door handles, so I can scratch those off my wish list.

Got HIDs hooked up the other day.

Today I received Gary's wiring harness. Super simple to do. Includes instructions, zipties, and extra relays.
Took me all of about 30 minutes to do.



I also received a throttle linkage cover, bracket, and bolt. Installed that while I was under the hood.

Also, while under the hood I found what seems like a small oil leak somewhere around the passenger side valve cover. It's always something with these bastard cars. I haven't narrowed it down yet.

A pair of 9C1 wipers came today to install on my upcoming vehicle purchase

MASShole9C1 wrote:

A pair of 9C1 wipers came today to install on my upcoming vehicle purchase

Let the bait hit the bottom...bring it up a foot or so.....then hang on tight... 

Hahaha, Steve. Well, its nothing super amazing. Needs a little but of work (what friggin B body doesn't). Tho, the color and certain options might be harder to find than most. Maybe not. We'll see... 

Interesting, my streetlights came with that exact relay pack.

You think maybe he designed it?

98% possibility that happened lol

MASShole9C1 wrote:

Hahaha, Steve. Well, its nothing super amazing. Needs a little but of work (what friggin B body doesn't). Tho, the color and certain options might be harder to find than most. Maybe not. We'll see... 

Hey I can keep secrets!   

1984twodoor wrote:

MASShole9C1 wrote:

Hahaha, Steve. Well, its nothing super amazing. Needs a little but of work (what friggin B body doesn't). Tho, the color and certain options might be harder to find than most. Maybe not. We'll see... 

Hey I can keep secrets!   

Maybe, but so can I  

A mint set of BBB door handles came today. Pretty excited about that.

Remaining on the BBB list are
-wheel well moulding a
-lower door/fender trim

I'm still looking for 2 big items.
1) blue leather roadmaster rear seat (94-96)
2) impala ss rear end to build

I've also started reading about the 1.6 rr and what springs to use. A ton of reading.

Also wondering where a reliable place is, to buy rear end gears from. Looking for 3.42s.

Still undecided on headers. I think I'll wait until I have the cash to get new cats too. Out with the old and in with the new. Plus I think I have some exh manifold bolts that are broken :/


Oh! I was able to reconnect the interior light switches in the door jambs. 9C1 cars come with them disabled. Both front driver and passenger wires are tucked behind the kick panels. Just plug them into the switches.

I picked up a mint headliner from Andrew out of his parts 9C1. This will be for my overhead console install since it has the ticket light hole and mine does not have one.
Gotta get this new project car rolling. Gonna need a lot of parts for that thing too. Damn B bodies. Using all my money. I DID pick up a complete set of silicone 9C1 hoses for it for $70 shipped. Not bad. They're in excellent condition!

MASShole9C1 wrote:

Still undecided on headers. I think I'll wait until I have the cash to get new cats too. Out with the old and in with the new. Plus I think I have some exh manifold bolts that are broken :/

If you are not in a big hurry for headers, I have a pair of original Clear Image Tri-Ys with matching "cat-delete" pipes that I just removed from my 96 9C1.

They are boxed up and UPS ready so that they can be re-ceramic coated by Dan.

I doubt you'll need cats, my car has always passed E-tests with Dan's "jump-pipes" installed, even WITH the aggressive PCM-4 LESS re-programing done.

This is a 1996 SS, dual cat - four O2 sensor (OBD-II) configuration.

The iMac is still down, so I can't post images, but if you're interested in the exhaust parts, I can send photos to your phone or email if you PM me.

No big updates. No pics yet either (have to empty my phone)

With the help of Indigo today, we swapped in some BBB door handles. Honestly, taking the door panels off made me nervous. But we did so without breaking a single thing. All the plastic door trim clips and whatnot were good to go back in.

The rears are sort if a PITA to swap out. It was easiest to take the outer sill trim off along with the actual glass. Once the glass was out it was very easy to access the 2 10mm mounting nuts.

Looks a lot nicer without the chrome handles. Had to run it through the car to get all the nasty finger prints off of everything.


During the drive home, on the highway, a kid in a fox body decided to try and race me. It was definitely fun for the 20 seconds it lasted. He had a car in his lane and he was forced to fall back. The 9C1 picked up, with the go pedal down, pretty quick surprisingly. Considering all the weight in the car. I thought he woulda had me GVW wise. Nope! I don't usually "race" but when you make eye contact, its like an animal instinct.


I also picked up some sand blasted valve covers and basically everything needed for the digital climate control swap. Thanks again Indigo!

The 9C1 has been laid up for over a month with a cracked flex plate.

Just got one in the mail from ironfistdog.

I did score an SS rear end as previously mention in my WTB thread. Full rebuild at some point.

I put G body springs out back, too low for me. Instead of putting the PPM autox springs back in, I put stock SS springs in. Looks and rides good.

I do have a pretty neat wheel and tire combo idea that, hopefully, I can achieve by this time next year.

So far so good, we are closing on our first house on the 18th. That + winter coming, she'll be put away until next year when I e got time, weather, and money on my side.

MASShole9C1 wrote:

The 9C1 has been laid up for over a month with a cracked flex plate.

Just got one in the mail from ironfistdog.

I did score an SS rear end as previously mention in my WTB thread. Full rebuild at some point.

I put G body springs out back, too low for me. Instead of putting the PPM autox springs back in, I put stock SS springs in. Looks and rides good.

I do have a pretty neat wheel and tire combo idea that, hopefully, I can achieve by this time next year.

So far so good, we are closing on our first house on the 18th. That + winter coming, she'll be put away until next year when I e got time, weather, and money on my side.

congrats on the house! Glad to hear it's going well!

Thanks, Matt. It's got a nice wooden carport and a shed for 2 cars, pool, patio, etc. the driveway is crushed stone tho. We're going to to order a prefab 24x30-ish garage and pave the driveway. But, that'll be later on. We're gonna be adding our own touches inside first.

Back to the car, I also gave Al my spotlight housings to give to Bill M. to have powder coated. Hoping to hear back sometime soon.

Good luck on the house.

MASShole9C1 wrote:

........... I also gave Al my spotlight housings to give to Bill M. to have powder coated. Hoping to hear back sometime soon.

Al AND Bill?????? Oh-Oh......Good luck with that too.... .... 

MASShole9C1 wrote:

So far so good, we are closing on our first house on the 18th. That + winter coming, she'll be put away until next year when I e got time, weather, and money on my side.

 Congrats! Staying in Attleboro?

Thanks guys! Yes, Mike. We are staying in the same area.

Fought on eBay a bit to get the PROPER length spotlights MADE for a Caprice.

Hopefully I'll get the PCd spotlight housings back from Bill M. soon so I can swap them out.

Also managed to get one of those funky trunk release/black out combo buttons from a big forum member. $15 shipped ain't bad considering they go from $50-$100 new on eBay and virtually impossible to find in a junk yard.

Kind of irrelevant things to buy, I know. I do alot of searching and waiting. I see the chance, I'll take it!

New (used) correct length S6 spotlights arrived today. Came with correct OEM mounting brackets specific to a Caprice.

They actually work too.

Pretty excited since I've been waiting a long time to get the correct ones.

If you check eBay, some sellers want $150-$250 for ONE Caprice specific spotlight. I snagged these for $94 shipped.

So in keeping with the ironic look of a lowered and "customized" 9C1, I am complete. Still got that push bar too...hmmmmmmmm

Nothing "progress" related to update. I wanted to share some pics tho. More of a photo dump of my favorite pics. I like to look at it when I can't drive it .

Also, I've since acquired an SS rear end from Al and will probably be going with 3.73s. I'll need to find someone for that or learn to do it myself, obviously. Then to choose a stall speed. Sooooo many factors to consider!!!

I've located a flywheel from Indigo too. It's sitting in the trunk still, with me hoping the noise I have IS a cracked flywheel. Haven't had the weather or time to look at it closely.