oil cooler lines AGAIN!

my lower oil cooler line is rusted in place to the radiator side tank, i dont want to round the nut (more) so brute force and penetrating grease isnt working. any ideas?

SOAK it with PB Blaster and use a vice grip to get it free.

GasTT wrote:

SOAK it with PB Blaster and use a vice grip to get it free.

yup keep soaking it ..... let it sit ...... spray again and go at it

Mmmmmmmm'

'Transmission lines'

Author Message
SScarlett_Caprice


Sun Feb 13, 2011 9:15 pm

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is there any way to temporarily fix the leaky metal crimps on the transmission cooler lines in my car? if not where can i order new lines? when i had my roadmaster i bought some from the dealership i work at and they were insanely expensive.



Tomz9C1
Posts: 795
Join date: 2009-01-21
Location: Rumford, Maine

Subject: Re: Transmission lines Mon Feb 14, 2011 5:36 am

That will work as a "quick fix". If there is 1 pinhole now, "__you can bet there's another right behind it__".

Ar you using tubing wrenches????? And yeah soak with oil walk away for 15 min and come back and spray again, I always use tubing wrenches and put a 2 foot piece of pipe over the other end of the wrench for leverage, haven't broken any yet.

For the trans lines I get that brake line that's green and doesn't rust ( the kind you bend by hand and replace the stock garbage with that stuff. do it once and you'll never have to do it again.

-
It sounds like its time to replace that crusty (unreliable) line. But maybe its not that bad and you only want to unstick a frozen nut.

Did you say if it was for the transmission or the engine? My 9C1 does have two coolers (engine oil and trans oil) in the radiator as well as the two air to oil cooler units up front behind the bumper.

The trans lines also notoriously rot inside the plastic sleeve as they pass thru the rad supt. 9C1s use a larger diameter trans line than the civilians, and consequently require a special radiator to match.

With a 6 point flare nut wrench, rotate (loosen) the nut and tube just a bit, a few degrees, but not so much as to bend up the line badly. That should relieve the gripping compression (crush) on the flared seal inside.

Then soak it again with trizol penetrating solvent or PB blaster. Try to rock the flare nut gently and patiently back and forth on the pipe to gradually break the corroded bond, while working the solvent into the crevice.

Using any tool that grips the tube nut from two sides (open-end wrench or vise-grip) will very likely "oval-ize" the nut and pipe. That will be an added head-ache. Buy, borrow, rent, or steal a six point flare-nut wrench.

B.T.W., be careful not to twist (damage) the oil cooler stack inside the radiator tank when trying to break the nut free. The seizure is most likely between the flare nut and the pipe's double-flared end anyway.

If the cooler in the radiator has a large thin nut (its made of formed sheet metal on mine) to secure and seal it to the plastic tank, then first make sure that its snug, but not crazy tight.


If it were me though, I would just cut the line off right at the nut, and use a snug-fitting six point socket to get it off safely.

Then replicate a new line using the very good quality (above mentioned) dark olive green line.

The NOS lines are also still available from Mike @ Hamilton Chevy. I have all my spares from him in my attic.

New lines can also be had in both double wrap mild steel as well as stainless steel from inline-tube and/or classic-tube.

I hope that some of this helps you out.

*

Machine-De-Zine wrote:

-
It sounds like its time to replace that crusty (unreliable) line. But maybe its not that bad and you only want to unstick a frozen nut.

Did you say if it was for the transmission or the engine? My 9C1 does have two coolers (engine oil and trans oil) in the radiator as well as the two air to oil cooler units up front behind the bumper.

The trans lines also notoriously rot inside the plastic sleeve as they pass thru the rad supt. 9C1s use a larger diameter trans line than the civilians, and consequently require a special radiator to match.

With a 6 point flare nut wrench, rotate (loosen) the nut and tube just a bit, a few degrees, but not so much as to bend up the line badly. That should relieve the gripping compression (crush) on the flared seal inside.

Then soak it again with trizol penetrating solvent or PB blaster. Try to rock the flare nut gently and patiently back and forth on the pipe to gradually break the corroded bond, while working the solvent into the crevice.

Using any tool that grips the tube nut from two sides (open-end wrench or vise-grip) will very likely "oval-ize" the nut and pipe. That will be an added head-ache. Buy, borrow, rent, or steal a six point flare-nut wrench.

B.T.W., be careful not to twist (damage) the oil cooler stack inside the radiator tank when trying to break the nut free. The seizure is most likely between the flare nut and the pipe's double-flared end anyway.

If the cooler in the radiator has a large thin nut (its made of formed sheet metal on mine) to secure and seal it to the plastic tank, then first make sure that its snug, but not crazy tight.


If it were me though, I would just cut the line off right at the nut, and use a snug-fitting six point socket to get it off safely.

Then replicate a new line using the very good quality (above mentioned) dark olive green line.

The NOS lines are also still available from Mike @ Hamilton Chevy. I have all my spares from him in my attic.

New lines can also be had in both double wrap mild steel as well as stainless steel from inline-tube and/or classic-tube.

I hope that some of this helps you out.


*

im with ya on that but cant you use a little bit larger diamiter line like fuel line or braided line one its flexible 2 it might hold more presure and being a bit bigger in diamiter wouldnt that help with flow and cooling but it might reduse the pressure also my l99 dont have a oil cooler is it easy to put in? and were would i hook up the oil lines

-
Can you please specify more clearly what you are referring to, and where exactly, when you say " leaky metal crimps"?

The pressure in the trans cooler lines is insignificant. Its not a working pressurized circuit, but just enough delivery pressure to circulate the heated oil through the trans cooler/s.

The inlet (female threads in the radiator) for the lines are too small in your car's radiator for directly connecting the 9C1 lines, and besides, you won't need the extra flow.

In order to fit the larger lines, you would have to either change the radiator to the HD unit (the internals cooler may be larger as well) or install a pair of step down (female to male) inverted flare seat bushings.

But also, that kind of defeats the whole purpose of wanting larger lines. The cooler's inlet/outlet step-down adaptors will restrict the increased flow capacity of the larger lines.

Unless you are intending to massively abuse your car and it's transmission for extended periods of time under the worst conditions, (like sustained police pursuit where failure is not an option) I would just leave it as it was installed by GM.

On the other hand, if you must tow a heavy double axle trailer through very hilly terrain, on the hottest summer days with the A.C. blasting on max, then do it. (Install an auxiliary trans oil cooler).

Go on eBay and find Hamilton Chevy, write your questions to Mike, he specializes in selling N.O.S. police & SS Impala specific OEM parts.

I recently bought two new trans and engine oil coolers with ALL the GM hoses and pipes (lines).

There are cheaper ways to do it from the after market as well. Remember: It costs you money and time to execute any solution in search of a problem!

I vaguely recall that it was maybe Boss Kettering who said, "Parts left out cost nothing and cause no service problems."

If you REALLY are going to do it, I will be happy to post which lines to route where, as there is a correct way to do it with respect to flow direction and what gets plumbed first in series.

ps, I humbly ask: Do you omit capital letters and punctuation intentionally? I find your posts a bit difficult (but not impossible) to read and follow.

*

mega meets Machine-De-Zine......

2 worlds collide...

!
Care to elaborate on what that observation means?

With a tractor-trailer license at risk, I try my level best to avoid ANY and ALL collisions, both of the vehicular AND the inter-planetary variety!
?

Well......
Ted (mega) tends to post (the idea, problem, suggestions, guesses & comments..etc) in a big pile.
You on the other hand post with engineer like logic & presentation.
Mega cant proof read or punctuate a post because he's already typing his NEXT 20 posts.
You however seem to handle 1 post at a time.



Seemed much less harsh when I just had 2 worlds colliding....

Disclaimer......no offense intended here, just my questionable sense of humor trying to show itself

Machine-De-Zine wrote:

-
Can you please specify more clearly what you are referring to, and where exactly, when you say " leaky metal crimps"?

The pressure in the trans cooler lines is insignificant. Its not a working pressurized circuit, but just enough delivery pressure to circulate the heated oil through the trans cooler/s.

The inlet (female threads in the radiator) for the lines are too small in your car's radiator for directly connecting the 9C1 lines, and besides, you won't need the extra flow.

In order to fit the larger lines, you would have to either change the radiator to the HD unit (the internals cooler may be larger as well) or install a pair of step down (female to male) inverted flare seat bushings.

But also, that kind of defeats the whole purpose of wanting larger lines. The cooler's inlet/outlet step-down adaptors will restrict the increased flow capacity of the larger lines.

Unless you are intending to massively abuse your car and it's transmission for extended periods of time under the worst conditions, (like sustained police pursuit where failure is not an option) I would just leave it as it was installed by GM.

On the other hand, if you must tow a heavy double axle trailer through very hilly terrain, on the hottest summer days with the A.C. blasting on max, then do it. (Install an auxiliary trans oil cooler).

Go on eBay and find Hamilton Chevy, write your questions to Mike, he specializes in selling N.O.S. police & SS Impala specific OEM parts.

I recently bought two new trans and engine oil coolers with ALL the GM hoses and pipes (lines).

There are cheaper ways to do it from the after market as well. Remember: It costs you money and time to execute any solution in search of a problem!

I vaguely recall that it was maybe Boss Kettering who said, "Parts left out cost nothing and cause no service problems."

If you REALLY are going to do it, I will be happy to post which lines to route where, as there is a correct way to do it with respect to flow direction and what gets plumbed first in series.

ps, I humbly ask: Do you omit capital letters and punctuation intentionally? I find your posts a bit difficult (but not impossible) to read and follow.

*

Thank you machine. I have never had it explained to me like that and like what you have said about this. I guess you do learn some thing everyday because from a few guys always told me to do what i said but, they way you explain it, it does make sense and i will take this into account next time i do my lines. Now as for a tranny cooler, If you remove the tranny lines from the rad you must cap the rad were they were correct? Now on to my grammer lol. I ALWAYS GOT A D IN ENGLISH, not my strong suit lol. i can't speel for ish but who needs proper spelling and period to turn a wrench lol.