So who here knows how to install nitrous?

I am looking at some sets on craigslist, and would like to know if anyone here would be willing to install it.


http://www.jaxed.com/cgi-bin/sd.cgi?cat=pts&fil=nitrous&state=XNE&submit=go

what are you putting it on?

No Moa wrote:

what are you putting it on?

X2, I have done a few. EFI or carb? LT1? Bottle warmer? Purge?

I got the NX # 20915-10 from E-bay new in the box for $350 a few years ago
so don't pay to much for a used one and make sure you get a wet kit,then there
still will be a lot more stuff to get.

94 z28 with 190k on the clock. Would definitely need a bottle warmer. Is having a purge system necessary?

yes and everything that this kit has plus a timing & delay box

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NEX-GENX-2/
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodlist.asp?idcategory=23
http://impalassforum.com/tech/nitrous/newbies/newbies.htm

mean ss wrote:

yes and everything that this kit has plus a timing & delay box

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NEX-GENX-2/
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodlist.asp?idcategory=23
http://impalassforum.com/tech/nitrous/newbies/newbies.htm

I agree, you need a wet kit, and the ability to turn down the timing. You can do it without a purge, but it sux. Can you say BOG

1. wet kit all the way, dry kits rely on your injectors for more fuel, dont make them work harder than they need to....

2. bottle heaters are a must, bottle pressure is everything. Example: Lets Say the Manufacturers spec for there jets is 900psi, and 6 for fuel....if that bottle heats up too much, pressure goes up, and then your pushing more N2o through that jet. If the fuel side stays at the 6psi pressure it was supposed to unlike the now higher N20...then the engine could go lean and boom. Same thing will happen if the bottle cools down, now you cant push that specified 900psi of N20 through the jet and youll make less HP

3. colder spark plugs and smaller gaps, You need a smaller gap cuz with that much more oxygen forced in the cylinder, you need to maintain a spark, Colder plugs are needed so you dont turn the engine into a diesel with glow plugs.

4. timing retard boxes are essential. 2 degrees per 50 hp is a good standard. some guys say 2 degrees per 100hp hit but being safe than sorry for initial testing is my theory, you always can jet leaner and put timing back in, rather than put a new set of pistons in... Again this will refer back to #2 with the engine goes boom...

5. Purge kits are cool, but not mandatory. they definitely look cool though, worth the 80 or so bucks...
You always can purge the system, manually overrided, right through the engine in neutral or park, but the motor has to be at speed, you cant do it from idle.. the motor has to be at 2500rpm or more to do it that way.. This way is becoming more and more commonly done at the track...

these are just my opinions, im not telling anybody what to do or not to do... these come from my own experiences with nitrous on a GSXR sportbike, and in 3 different LT1s, and now a multi stage kit on my drag car... The first LT1 went boom, but I didnt have this knowledge at the time i blew it up.. learn from me: a stock bottom end will not tolerate a direct port kit with 250hp jets and only 2 degrees of timing pulled....haha

with a proper setup, spray no more than 150hp with the stock bottom end, and it will live a long life.

Good luck with your kit!