So What Is The Going Rate For a Rearend?

My bro wants to ditch his peg leg 2:56 come spring for something with a posi, preferably a 9C1 or Impala rear. What's the going rate for a ready to go rear end in good shape with preferably low miles?

It took me a good month to get $100 for a my 3.08 posi drum rear

How big of a deal is the rear end swap on one of these? I kind of would like to get something with more bite, ratio wise, but I'd probably sell the car and get something different after the crap I had to do on my truck's rear end swap, and that wasn't even with me physically bolting it in there!

Matt Trakker wrote:

How big of a deal is the rear end swap on one of these? I kind of would like to get something with more bite, ratio wise, but I'd probably sell the car and get something different after the crap I had to do on my truck's rear end swap, and that wasn't even with me physically bolting it in there!

Swap is easy. Driveway, jack, jack stands, and two guys: About two hours. 11 bolts, ebrake cables, abs wire, and brake line.

Good time to install new axle bearings, seals, and fresh fluid with a fel-pro diff cover gasket.

What would be the best swap, something from a B4U Caprice or Impala SS? I'm assuming there's a lot of BS involved with going from drum to disc?

Matt Trakker wrote:

What would be the best swap, something from a B4U Caprice or Impala SS? I'm assuming there's a lot of BS involved with going from drum to disc?

Very easy actually. If you want to keep the drums, and the new rear is disc, just pull the axles (should do anyways for bearg seal replacement), and swap backing plates. If going from drum to drum, go for the bigger drums. If the new rear has discs and that is what you want to use, you will need the both rear ebrake cables from the donor car. The best setup from the factory would be the 94-96 posi/disc rear from a L99 9C1. It comes with 3.23 final ratio. Or g80 equipped 9c1 or any impala ss will have 3.08 final ratio.
Some of the 91-93 cars may even have lower gears, and would still work.
If you are adding discs to a non disc car, just get the stealth brake bolt, and metering rod.
If you feel like it is too much, bring the rear end to me with the car, I will swap it out for you.
This is also a great time to replace the rear shocks.

IMPALADAKID wrote:

Matt Trakker wrote:

What would be the best swap, something from a B4U Caprice or Impala SS? I'm assuming there's a lot of BS involved with going from drum to disc?

Very easy actually. If you want to keep the drums, and the new rear is disc, just pull the axles (should do anyways for bearg seal replacement), and swap backing plates,. And you will need the both rear ebrake cables. If going from drum to drum, go for the bigger drums. The best setup from the factory would be the 94-96 posi/disc rear from a L99 9C1. It comes with 3.23 final ratio.
If you are adding discs to a non disc car, just get the stealth brake bolt, and metering rod.
If you feel like it is too much, bring the rear end to me with the car, I will swap it out for you.
This is also a great time to replace the rear shocks.

Pretty much what my brother wants to do. New rear, shocks, springs, the works.

I had been planning to do an axle swap on my 1A2 for a few months now, just too lazy to remove the rust off the replacement axle and plumb new brake lines
I was going to do a gear and carrier swap originally but I was talked out of it because its a pain to get the gears installed properly. Much easier to swap in a new axle.

If it was me, I would go balls out, and replace shocks, brakes, ebrake horseshoe on disc car, outer bearings, seals, all eight control arm bushings or new control arms, and not have to do any work in the rear for a very long time.

IMPALADAKID wrote:

If it was me, I would go balls out, and replace shocks, brakes, ebrake horseshoe on disc car, outer bearings, seals, all eight control arm bushings or new control arms, and not have to do any work in the rear for a very long time.

Probably would. Thats why we're going to do it come spring, give him time to get everything together and source out a good rear end.

Last time I did one I just hung the calipers and brakes lines still connected. Coat hangers > TBI > sliced bread!

Do it yourself. Swap for swap is the cheapest. I (mistakenly) had a "reputable" shop swap carriers to a posi, and I over spent. Trust me. I will be doing it myself from now on.

Yeah, from now on for me it's either a whole good rear end just being bolted in, or a full on rebuild with all new parts...messing with and adjusting bearings gears and all that crap near the center just seems like it's impossible to get done without having noise as a result, nevermind more serious headaches...

Its a pain in the ass on the ground, find a buddy with a lift and a tranny jack. Oh and difinatly find a buddy. Cause i did mine alone 3 times and it SUCKS!!!

remember you'll need a different driveshaft, 8.5 rears takes a shorter one, make sure you make it look pretty, yeah on the ground was a pia, but moving it up and out of the cellar by yourself well thats more fun..


it was easier for me to roll it under the car

waynes91 wrote:

remember you'll need a different driveshaft, 8.5 rears takes a shorter one

Thanks for the heads up. Never knew the DS was different.

Cadet57 wrote:

waynes91 wrote:

remember you'll need a different driveshaft, 8.5 rears takes a shorter one

Thanks for the heads up. Never knew the DS was different.

I think he means on the sedans, wagons should all be the same.

It would be a sedan. My bro has a 93 LS.

Cadet57 wrote:

It would be a sedan. My bro has a 93 LS.

Depending on the final gear, it could be either size. A 2.56 would be a 7.5, and a anything 2.93 or higher would be a 8.5 if memory serves me, and yes there is a difference in driveshaft size. A set of long trailing arms should compensate if you have the smaller diff/longer DS. I actually have long forgotten the length difference, since I have never owned any b-body with the smaller differential.

IMPALADAKID wrote:

Cadet57 wrote:

It would be a sedan. My bro has a 93 LS.

Depending on the final gear, it could be either size. A 2.56 would be a 7.5, and a anything 2.93 or higher would be a 8.5 if memory serves me, and yes there is a difference in driveshaft size. A set of long trailing arms should compensate if you have the smaller diff/longer DS. I actually have long forgotten the length difference, since I have never owned any b-body with the smaller differential.

Yeah, he has the 7.5 2:56 rear. That part I knew. I just never knew there were two sizes of d/s's What would an 8.5 driveshaft run plus the rear end?

Cadet57 wrote:

IMPALADAKID wrote:

Cadet57 wrote:

It would be a sedan. My bro has a 93 LS.

Depending on the final gear, it could be either size. A 2.56 would be a 7.5, and a anything 2.93 or higher would be a 8.5 if memory serves me, and yes there is a difference in driveshaft size. A set of long trailing arms should compensate if you have the smaller diff/longer DS. I actually have long forgotten the length difference, since I have never owned any b-body with the smaller differential.

Yeah, he has the 7.5 2:56 rear. That part I knew. I just never knew there were two sizes of d/s's What would an 8.5 driveshaft run plus the rear end?

First of all, I would be talking to Doug or one of the many other guys here who sell parts from parts cars. You will keep it in the familiy so to speak, plus get a good deal on the rearend and driveshaft.
I like Junk yards for some things, but there is nothing like a drive to Walpole NH to clear the head, get a good deal and help a friend.

IMPALADAKID wrote:

First of all, I would be talking to Doug or one of the many other guys here who sell parts from parts cars. You will keep it in the familiy so to speak, plus get a good deal on the rearend and driveshaft.
I like Junk yards for some things, but there is nothing like a drive to Walpole NH to clear the head, get a good deal and help a friend.

Plus he has a lift.

But that is what I planned, come spring I (or if my brother ever joins...) will start a thread looking for the goodies. I was going to start with the usual suspects, Doug, Glen, etc and go from there.

Cadet57 wrote:

IMPALADAKID wrote:

First of all, I would be talking to Doug or one of the many other guys here who sell parts from parts cars. You will keep it in the familiy so to speak, plus get a good deal on the rearend and driveshaft.
I like Junk yards for some things, but there is nothing like a drive to Walpole NH to clear the head, get a good deal and help a friend.

Plus he has a lift.

But that is what I planned, come spring I (or if my brother ever joins...) will start a thread looking for the goodies. I was going to start with the usual suspects, Doug, Glen, etc and go from there.

I C.

IMPALADAKID wrote:

Cadet57 wrote:

IMPALADAKID wrote:

First of all, I would be talking to Doug or one of the many other guys here who sell parts from parts cars. You will keep it in the familiy so to speak, plus get a good deal on the rearend and driveshaft.
I like Junk yards for some things, but there is nothing like a drive to Walpole NH to clear the head, get a good deal and help a friend.

Plus he has a lift.

But that is what I planned, come spring I (or if my brother ever joins...) will start a thread looking for the goodies. I was going to start with the usual suspects, Doug, Glen, etc and go from there.

I C.

Hah, yeah. But I thought i'd get a jumpstart to see what he is looking at to do the swap the right way so he can start finding parts and saving some $$ up.