BADASS of New England

An automobile club for the enthusiast who enjoys the last of the big GM cars. The rear wheel drive B and D bodys. Chevrolet Impala SS, Caprice, 9C1, Buick Roadmaster, Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser, Cadillac Fleetwood
 
HomeHome  RegisterRegister  Log inLog in  
Log in
Username:
Password:
Log in automatically: 
:: I forgot my password
Who is online?
In total there are 2 users online :: 0 Registered, 0 Hidden and 2 Guests

None

Most users ever online was 105 on Fri Mar 24, 2017 9:02 am
Latest topics
» 2017 Kancamagus Ride
Yesterday at 11:05 pm by black blur 96

» Buick rear seat wanted (again)
Mon May 15, 2017 10:39 pm by MASShole9C1

» Midnight tour of the Allagash Ice Caves July 3rd!
Sun May 14, 2017 2:01 pm by booth9C1SS

» Dust off / hang out / mod day at my house May 20th
Sun May 14, 2017 11:10 am by toomanytoyz

» Spindles
Wed Apr 26, 2017 8:41 pm by MalibuSSwagon

» New Ride, New Forum!
Thu Apr 13, 2017 12:08 am by boojum

» '95 DCM RMW
Sat Apr 08, 2017 2:02 pm by Bull

» Is it just me or does impalassforum suck?
Thu Apr 06, 2017 8:48 am by toomanytoyz

» 94 RMS 60k miles and 94 FWB with 76k for sale
Fri Mar 31, 2017 4:41 pm by CrashMaster

Search
 
 

Display results as :
 
Rechercher Advanced Search
May 2017
MonTueWedThuFriSatSun
1234567
891011121314
15161718192021
22232425262728
293031    
CalendarCalendar

Share | 
 

 "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"

View previous topic View next topic Go down 
AuthorMessage
Matt Trakker

avatar

Posts : 5080
Join date : 2009-07-30
Age : 35
Location : Reading, MA

PostSubject: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Thu Nov 18, 2010 8:46 pm

Um, yeah.









My buddy Carl shot the replacements for me. The damn paint cost 125 bucks! Apparently no cars have been painted the color of a Twinkie or Lady Kenmore washing machine in several decades...so...

They were trashed before, but not broken. The front one came off a wagon in the middle of nowhere Montana back in like 2003 (it looked like it had latex paint on it), the rear was from an eBay auction out of Missouri, the front corner ones came from the same guy in Montana, and I forget where the rear corner ones are from. I did not want to use the fiberglass ones, because the sizes are all wrong and require all sorts of prep and cutting. I have a front corner one I had bought just in case for my last Impala, and it looks ridiculous.

Some other body guy that painted the side of my truck told me to sand all the paint completely off them with 80 GRIT paper! I almost think he was screwing with me. I didn't use that, maybe 180. That was still too rough. Come to find you should leave the previous paint on there if it's still good. Hopefully this paint won't react with the bare, 35ish year old urethane and make them fall apart. My friend primed them with something, plastic welded a few trouble spots, and smoothed out a lot of crappy areas. They came out pretty nice for what they were.





These were a PAIN. Not totally frozen but the position sucked and I needed a cheater bar and a 3/8 drive, couldn't even use my breaker bar other than busting them loose. A rust fleck fell off the back of the bumper and went in my ear canal! Laughing




Of course, because it was ME doing this, the 5 billion pound bumper fell off the jack when I removed it and rolled down the arm of it. Nothing got damaged though. This bumper must weigh three times as much as a 1980s boxy bumper with the aluminum reinforcement. I wish I saved the mint shape rear bumper from my old green one, this has a couple dings and a small rot spot in it.



^I thought it was interesting how both the rear of the frame and the body itself are notched for dual exhaust outlets.

The old fillers completely crumbled into a million pieces when I took the bumper off. I called it a day and put all the tools away because the paint on the "new" ones seems a little fragile, so I'm letting them sit in my house for a few days. I'll take the front bumper off next, that shouldn't be as hard.

If these fillers fall apart too, I AM tucking the bumpers! I have a pic of a car like mine with it done on my hard drive at home I'll post sometime. It doesn't look all that terrible.
Back to top Go down
toomanytoyz
Club President
avatar

Posts : 6877
Join date : 2009-01-20
Age : 40
Location : East Hampstead, NH USA

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Thu Nov 18, 2010 9:16 pm

You really should. Wink

Nice project.

_________________
Bill "The Verb" Crovo - Resident Car Slut & Unicorn Hunter

A Toasted Marshmallow, A Long German, A Lame Suburban and expensive dreams...
Missing all my previous B's, D's and V... Sad
American Ricer
www.badassofne.net
"Ooooh! Look! Something shiny!"
NO MORE UNICORNS!!!!!

LOWER IT!!! Wink
Back to top Go down
http://impalass.uniquekind.net/
1984twodoor

avatar

Posts : 4059
Join date : 2010-03-30
Age : 23
Location : Wilmington/Wakefield/Andover

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Thu Nov 18, 2010 10:14 pm

I think that it would look sick like that. If they crack, do it! Very Happy
Back to top Go down
Matt Trakker

avatar

Posts : 5080
Join date : 2009-07-30
Age : 35
Location : Reading, MA

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Fri Nov 19, 2010 1:01 pm

It's funny, almost like GM anticipated that bumper fillers will not last very long, so the contours of the bumpers are made to recess back against the car under the grille, headlights, and taillights.
Back to top Go down
Matt Trakker

avatar

Posts : 5080
Join date : 2009-07-30
Age : 35
Location : Reading, MA

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Sun Nov 21, 2010 3:45 pm

I did some more work today. Can I just say that this is a genuine pain in the ass? I almost want to just trade this car for a really nice SS and be done with this nonsense. Laughing

Seriously though, this sucks. I started by putting the corner fillers on the back. Apparently, when these cars were built, they just made the fillers and metal braces for them however they wanted, then some clown randomly shot screws into the body of the car, right in a nice area to cause rot, to hold the fillers on. Stupid. This means that fillers from another 74 Impala made next in line from mine may not even fit on my car right. Like how these don't. Laughing

I got one put together, tried to put it on, no good, I had to start each screw using the Impala's original metal braces to do the best to make them fit. This cracked the paint in spots, and even the fillers themselves. On one, a big web of cracks appeared, so I smeared some Quiksteel on the back to try and strengthen it. I think this effect was because of the whole sanding down the paint to nothing beforehand and then working with bare urethane, maybe a chem. reaction.





FWIW, they still aren't brittle, and I think I can use them. They're just fragile when you're ramming tools into them. The old ones hardened into this black volcanic glass looking stuff and literally blew apart on the highway as I drove.



Got the old crappy broken filler off the back bumper:



Replaced:


This is when it started to suck really bad. You know it sucks when you don't even bother to take any more photos.

Tried to put the bumper back on, it doesn't fit onto the car past the fillers! So after much wrangling and almost destroying the things, I took the corner fillers back off the car (which is a pain, because the screws I had to fiddle with for a half an hour are also almost impossible to get a mini-socket onto), and just put the bumper back on (loose) with it's filler installed. That filler actually looks pretty nice on the car.

I think I'm going to try and just put the corner ones back on with the bumper half-ass installed so I have wiggle room, do the best I can, even if I can't get all the screws into them, then adjust and tighten the bumper.

And, I'm planning to install the fronts with the front bumper in place. I can at least take out the grille and headlight bezels for that, I took all the old stuff off a long time ago with the bumper still on.

If I were to tuck the bumpers, this is what I'd be dealing with.


Has anyone ever done, or heard of, drilling holes in the pistons for the bumper shocks to let the pressure out, then putting the car against a building, with tires or towels in between, and then putting it in drive to mush the bumpers in gently? Someone told me that.
Very Happy
Back to top Go down
Machine-De-Zine

avatar

Posts : 512
Join date : 2010-11-16
Age : 60
Location : Wrentham

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Sun Nov 21, 2010 8:58 pm

Those pistons were really a nice piece of body saving engineering on those cars when they were new. We all hated them when they came out though! I grew up neck deep in 64-72 A-Bodies, and these so-called "5 mile per hour bumpers" looked SO hideous when they were introduced. It was all part of a government plot to destroy us evil hot-rodderz! They "smogged" the engines, added lots of weight & killed the handling by those bumpers that grossly increased the high polar moment of inertia. On one of my 88 LS Bro-Hamz I had one piston stuck part way in, so I drilled it out and drained the oil. Then I set it up on the hydraulic press and placed the other drilled-out full length piston next to it and compressed it to the same length as the stuck one, then welded them to a fixed length, looks awesome. Since they are collector type cars for me, I bought all four new ones from GM while still available. I opened the box and (although they look like they will bolt up) they were tiny, and very light weight. On a friends race car, I duplicated them as spacing stand-offs made of aluminum and painted them black. I made up the aluminum plates by tracing the original bumper & frame side plates & joined with a measured length of weldable alum pipe, the first pipe I tried was not weldable (never found out what alloy that stuff was, just scrap) B.T.W. The reason the body looks like it is made to fit like a glove when all the way in was to keep a momentary compressive impact from causing body damage, (at least thats the theory)! Hey, anyone out there ever take one apart? I always wondered if there was an actual coil spring inside in addition to the high pressure gas. When I was repairing the filler "rubbers" in my 88, I made all the repairs while still attached to the car, actually what I did was take a spare rigid header from another car and did the repairs on the header so that I knew it would fit an identical fiberglass header. That urethane material shrinks, distorts & gets brittle as it ages.
Back to top Go down
1984twodoor

avatar

Posts : 4059
Join date : 2010-03-30
Age : 23
Location : Wilmington/Wakefield/Andover

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Sun Nov 21, 2010 10:57 pm

That guy with the box at Tim's dads place probably tried it once lol Razz
Back to top Go down
Matt Trakker

avatar

Posts : 5080
Join date : 2009-07-30
Age : 35
Location : Reading, MA

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Mon Nov 22, 2010 12:54 pm

Machine-De-Zine wrote:
Those pistons were really a nice piece of body saving engineering on those cars when they were new. We all hated them when they came out though! I grew up neck deep in 64-72 A-Bodies, and these so-called "5 mile per hour bumpers" looked SO hideous when they were introduced. It was all part of a government plot to destroy us evil hot-rodderz! They "smogged" the engines, added lots of weight & killed the handling by those bumpers that grossly increased the high polar moment of inertia. On one of my 88 LS Bro-Hamz I had one piston stuck part way in, so I drilled it out and drained the oil. Then I set it up on the hydraulic press and placed the other drilled-out full length piston next to it and compressed it to the same length as the stuck one, then welded them to a fixed length, looks awesome. Since they are collector type cars for me, I bought all four new ones from GM while still available. I opened the box and (although they look like they will bolt up) they were tiny, and very light weight. On a friends race car, I duplicated them as spacing stand-offs made of aluminum and painted them black. I made up the aluminum plates by tracing the original bumper & frame side plates & joined with a measured length of weldable alum pipe, the first pipe I tried was not weldable (never found out what alloy that stuff was, just scrap) B.T.W. The reason the body looks like it is made to fit like a glove when all the way in was to keep a momentary compressive impact from causing body damage, (at least thats the theory)! Hey, anyone out there ever take one apart? I always wondered if there was an actual coil spring inside in addition to the high pressure gas. When I was repairing the filler "rubbers" in my 88, I made all the repairs while still attached to the car, actually what I did was take a spare rigid header from another car and did the repairs on the header so that I knew it would fit an identical fiberglass header. That urethane material shrinks, distorts & gets brittle as it ages.

Ha, something tells me that you have some vehicles we need to see photos of, sir. LOL

I think if I WERE to tuck the bumpers in, I'd like to have a backup set of bumper shocks so I could put it back the way it was...or I wonder how hard it would be to have some kind of bracket made to supplant the shocks? Cool
Back to top Go down
sdstick

avatar

Posts : 4284
Join date : 2009-03-20
Location : Revere, MA

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Mon Nov 22, 2010 1:52 pm

Matt Trakker wrote:

I think if I WERE to tuck the bumpers in, I'd like to have a backup set of bumper shocks so I could put it back the way it was...or I wonder how hard it would be to have some kind of bracket made to supplant the shocks? Cool
If you knew someone in manufacturing that wasnt to far from you it'd be relatively easy. scratch

_________________
Steve


96BBB 28K 3.42 Bolt-ons
95BBB 100K 3.73 383 New DD...already broke fixt the 4L60E twice
95 Black WB4 Hole...ee...grail
96 Black WB4 No holes in this
95BBB 189K 3.08 Old DD Stolen...by Matt. Cool
Whine..eee...Silver LS6
Back to top Go down
Matt Trakker

avatar

Posts : 5080
Join date : 2009-07-30
Age : 35
Location : Reading, MA

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Mon Nov 22, 2010 2:00 pm

Hmm...are you trying to say you'd be interested in bidding on said contract if such a project came to pass? lol
Back to top Go down
sdstick

avatar

Posts : 4284
Join date : 2009-03-20
Location : Revere, MA

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Mon Nov 22, 2010 3:53 pm

Couple of questions...
1) Did you mean interested or willing?
2) Did you say bidding or bending over?
Oh....nevermind, I think I know
Start measuring
Looks like 2 rectangular plates with appropriate holes & 1 X Dia pipe cut to length as a spacer & welded.
Because its a race car, I'm assuming you'd choose aluminum
You've got all winter to get er done

_________________
Steve


96BBB 28K 3.42 Bolt-ons
95BBB 100K 3.73 383 New DD...already broke fixt the 4L60E twice
95 Black WB4 Hole...ee...grail
96 Black WB4 No holes in this
95BBB 189K 3.08 Old DD Stolen...by Matt. Cool
Whine..eee...Silver LS6
Back to top Go down
Matt Trakker

avatar

Posts : 5080
Join date : 2009-07-30
Age : 35
Location : Reading, MA

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Mon Nov 22, 2010 8:48 pm

Hahaha

I'm just not sure how I'd get the bumper shocks out, yet. They bolt on the sides of the frame rails or something like that. There are huge brackets attached to the outboard sides of the rails actually, and the shocks slide into those...I gotta get under there.

And yeah, I'd need super light weight ones, you know, for the autocrossing competitions.
Back to top Go down
95brmw

avatar

Posts : 1432
Join date : 2009-11-10
Age : 32
Location : Connecticut

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Mon Nov 22, 2010 11:12 pm

That car looks amazing! I have a 75 impala couple myself that I hope to someday restore. Has been sitting in a garage for 10 years, lots of rust. She has about 250k on the original 350. Do you have a source for replacement parts?
Back to top Go down
Machine-De-Zine

avatar

Posts : 512
Join date : 2010-11-16
Age : 60
Location : Wrentham

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Tue Nov 23, 2010 5:57 am

Matt Trakker wrote:
Hahaha

I'm just not sure how I'd get the bumper shocks out, yet. They bolt on the sides of the frame rails or something like that. There are huge brackets attached to the outboard sides of the rails actually, and the shocks slide into those...I gotta get under there.

And yeah, I'd need super light weight ones, you know, for the autocrossing competitions.
Don't laugh too hard at the prospect of wheelin a big-ole B-Body around in an auto-cross. At least not until you have seen Tad's whale sized SS "taxi" eat up some C5 Vetts and a $200,000.00 Ferarri Challenge Stradale for lunch! . . http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_lJHBujAEdQ . . Back to the thread: After 40 years of every kind of operation on hydraulic presses, I hoped I might be able to "pull" my pistons back out to proper stock length, but no way. After making a VERY secure support set up and applying power, I watched as the mounting plates tore out of their piston cylinders @ some 15 tons of linear force. Wow, they are strong. I just re-seated the plates and welded everything up. Now that I think of it, it didn't take nearly as much force to compress/shorten the the full length rusty mate down to the stuck one's height. When I bought mine new from GM 4 years ago, they were about $90.00 apiece if memory serves me. I would definitely make replacements out of steel and try to match the pipe diameter to original for strength and an OEM look. If you tap anything with that hulking car, there will be NO GIVE and you may bend your chassis! BTW, Remember to coat all hardware that attaches to the chassis (or bumper) with QuickSilver Perfect Seal Goo. I must have tried several hundreds of products to prevent under car/truck & tractor corrosion issues and this stuff and Jet-lube Marine Kopr will gidder-dunn! Man, do I ever hate when, during disassembly, those nice stainless steel capped carriage bolts spin their under head "squares" while tearing the hell out of the previously perfect bumper chrome. Aluminum replacement bumper pistons are only for stock racing rules that require all this original stuff to stay in the car. In these transitional years like yours, you might look into the possibility that GM made some later, but same style cars, with an aluminum inner-bumper support structure. I can see from the photo that your is surely steel. I did find such a thing for my 1988 cars. Remember the solid aluminum front bumpers on 1976 Camaros? Hey, Did you really take that photo of your car? It is ultra pro looking, and GM probably spent hundreds of thousands of dollars to get just ONE shot that looks THAT good!
Back to top Go down
Matt Trakker

avatar

Posts : 5080
Join date : 2009-07-30
Age : 35
Location : Reading, MA

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Tue Nov 23, 2010 4:45 pm

95brmw wrote:
That car looks amazing! I have a 75 impala couple myself that I hope to someday restore. Has been sitting in a garage for 10 years, lots of rust. She has about 250k on the original 350. Do you have a source for replacement parts?

Haha, thanks, and that's awesome! Is it the sport coupe or the custom coupe?

Fortunately this car had very low mileage, so it didn't need much and mechanical stuff is easy to come by. Your best bet is to go junkyarding via car-part.com, browse demolition derby classifieds, and eBay! It took a long time for me to find these stupid filler things.
Back to top Go down
Matt Trakker

avatar

Posts : 5080
Join date : 2009-07-30
Age : 35
Location : Reading, MA

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Tue Nov 23, 2010 4:52 pm

Machine-De-Zine wrote:
Matt Trakker wrote:
Hahaha

I'm just not sure how I'd get the bumper shocks out, yet. They bolt on the sides of the frame rails or something like that. There are huge brackets attached to the outboard sides of the rails actually, and the shocks slide into those...I gotta get under there.

And yeah, I'd need super light weight ones, you know, for the autocrossing competitions.
Don't laugh too hard at the prospect of wheelin a big-ole B-Body around in an auto-cross. At least not until you have seen Tad's whale sized SS "taxi" eat up some C5 Vetts and a $200,000.00 Ferarri Challenge Stradale for lunch! . . http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_lJHBujAEdQ . . Back to the thread: After 40 years of every kind of operation on hydraulic presses, I hoped I might be able to "pull" my pistons back out to proper stock length, but no way. After making a VERY secure support set up and applying power, I watched as the mounting plates tore out of their piston cylinders @ some 15 tons of linear force. Wow, they are strong. I just re-seated the plates and welded everything up. Now that I think of it, it didn't take nearly as much force to compress/shorten the the full length rusty mate down to the stuck one's height. When I bought mine new from GM 4 years ago, they were about $90.00 apiece if memory serves me. I would definitely make replacements out of steel and try to match the pipe diameter to original for strength and an OEM look. If you tap anything with that hulking car, there will be NO GIVE and you may bend your chassis! BTW, Remember to coat all hardware that attaches to the chassis (or bumper) with QuickSilver Perfect Seal Goo. I must have tried several hundreds of products to prevent under car/truck & tractor corrosion issues and this stuff and Jet-lube Marine Kopr will gidder-dunn! Man, do I ever hate when, during disassembly, those nice stainless steel capped carriage bolts spin their under head "squares" while tearing the hell out of the previously perfect bumper chrome. Aluminum replacement bumper pistons are only for stock racing rules that require all this original stuff to stay in the car. In these transitional years like yours, you might look into the possibility that GM made some later, but same style cars, with an aluminum inner-bumper support structure. I can see from the photo that your is surely steel. I did find such a thing for my 1988 cars. Remember the solid aluminum front bumpers on 1976 Camaros? Hey, Did you really take that photo of your car? It is ultra pro looking, and GM probably spent hundreds of thousands of dollars to get just ONE shot that looks THAT good!

I actually saw online about 10 years ago, someone autocrossing a '75 Bel Air 4 door post sedan, LOL. I was still being facetious, however the car handles pretty good for what it is.

I was afraid of tucking the bumpers because I've seen these bumpers do their job before, and I didn't want to crinkle the impossible to find sheetmetal in case someone hit me. I've never had an accident with the yellow one, but a lot of people hit my green Impala. All Toyota products, mainly Corollas, btw. LOL
One girl pulled out into moving traffic and came across two lanes of traffic, while looking at me trying to swerve, and hit my front bumper as we slammed into each other. The Impala sent her car spinning in a circle and ripped the entire front end off. I just had a cracked blinker lens. She had to pay to "fix my car" too!
Laughing
When I parted out my brother's '89, the rear bumper support, made of aluminum, had corroded around the mounts! The front was fine. I think 1980 was the first year on the B- bodies for this.

And yep, I took that pic in Danvers, MA in the middle of the cornfields behind the old State Hospital (torn down). Thanks!
Back to top Go down
Matt Trakker

avatar

Posts : 5080
Join date : 2009-07-30
Age : 35
Location : Reading, MA

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Tue Nov 23, 2010 4:54 pm

Oh, and for rust proofing, I use this stuff:

http://www.masterseriescoatings.com/index/primer/

It's pretty crazy. I bet QuickSilver is along the same lines?
Back to top Go down
Machine-De-Zine

avatar

Posts : 512
Join date : 2010-11-16
Age : 60
Location : Wrentham

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Tue Nov 23, 2010 5:53 pm

Matt Trakker wrote:
Oh, and for rust proofing, I use this stuff:

http://www.masterseriescoatings.com/index/primer/

It's pretty crazy. I bet QuickSilver is along the same lines?
Yes, that stuff IS most excellent! but it has a different purpose, USE BOTH! That product you are comparing to is a primer . . a permanent painted-on coating for the whole surface of the part, and the Perfect Seal is for preventing any kind of corrosion from happening in the gaps, crevices, threads and mating surfaces that stay together for a long time, but may need to be disassembled some time in the future. When that time comes, and your the guy taking things apart, and you see how amazing this stuff works, you WILL wrap both your arms around yourself & give a great big hug! Wipe off the old Perfect Seal & the parts, bolts & surfaces will be AS NEW! I first found this stuff at a marina where the owner, for whom I installed & rigged two roots blown big block chevys in his pleasure boat, used to provide me with post-warrantee engine cores from Merc-Marine. Anyway, this is the standard of the marine industry and insisted upon by Mercruiser for assembling most parts on the boat & in the bilge. Imagine putting an aluminum "propellah" on a tapered steel shaft, and then submerging THAT in salty-sea water for the some extended duration. I go through lots of this stuff and can NOT contemplate building car's undercarriages without using it. When I finally figure out how to post pics, you will see on all the under the car photos, a shiny brown residue around EVERY fastener installed under my cars. It may look like "oozing crud" to some observers, but to me, it looks MINT! The best applications for our cars are -bumper bolts - body mount bolts & bushing cavities - upper & lower control arm bushing bolts & sleeves.
Back to top Go down
sdstick

avatar

Posts : 4284
Join date : 2009-03-20
Location : Revere, MA

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Tue Nov 23, 2010 6:22 pm

But...wasnt your link to this product advertised in Lira?
Where can we find it locally?
I take it we're looking for a Mercruiser dealer Question

_________________
Steve


96BBB 28K 3.42 Bolt-ons
95BBB 100K 3.73 383 New DD...already broke fixt the 4L60E twice
95 Black WB4 Hole...ee...grail
96 Black WB4 No holes in this
95BBB 189K 3.08 Old DD Stolen...by Matt. Cool
Whine..eee...Silver LS6
Back to top Go down
Machine-De-Zine

avatar

Posts : 512
Join date : 2010-11-16
Age : 60
Location : Wrentham

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Tue Nov 23, 2010 7:39 pm

sdstick wrote:
But...wasnt your link to this product advertised in Lira?
Where can we find it locally?
I take it we're looking for a Mercruiser dealer Question
If any one listening (reading), and has ever owned a boat, and still lives or travels near a marine supply house, thats youze guys dat live nearest to the coast, go to their parts department and order it, maybe several guys could do a group buy on a carton of six cans and share in the savings. Failing that, I will see if I can secure this stuff for those interested. This place always has tons of choices on the shelf. I have gotten lots of very cool and useful stuff from them . . . http://fcmsupply.com/ . . . Or, Call (516)-868-0177 and ask them if they can ship you < Quicksilver PerfectSeal 92-342271 > I get all my machine shop supplies, including the Jet-Lube Marine-Kopr from . . . http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/GSDRVSM?PACACHE=000000163353751. . . BTW, Check this site out. They are awesome. Their shipping & comprehensive supply of products for immediate delivery is unsurpassed! At my job, we have an account with them, so unfortunately I don't know if you can just call up & order without an account on record. I guess my point is, you can get a lot of great stuff from many nearby places if you "endeavor persevere" and know what your'e looking for, or simply use the internet to have suppliers with efficient shipping departments standing by to get it out to you quickly & cheaply!
Back to top Go down
M.ROSS

avatar

Posts : 443
Join date : 2009-01-21
Age : 57
Location : So.Portland/ME

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Wed Nov 24, 2010 2:00 am

Matt .Try contacting Mike Harris who makes the lightweight bumpers supports on ISSF
maybe he'll cut you a deal on just the bumper shock part.
I bought this for my car and didn't like the way it fit the bumper so i went with the stock support.
Back to top Go down
GasTT

avatar

Posts : 2675
Join date : 2009-01-19
Age : 29
Location : Treasure Coast, FL

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Wed Nov 24, 2010 2:32 am

Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!
Back to top Go down
Machine-De-Zine

avatar

Posts : 512
Join date : 2010-11-16
Age : 60
Location : Wrentham

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Wed Nov 24, 2010 3:38 am

M.ROSS wrote:
Matt .Try contacting Mike Harris who makes the lightweight bumpers supports on ISSF
maybe he'll cut you a deal on just the bumper shock part.
I bought this for my car and didn't like the way it fit the bumper so i went with the stock support.
Let me retry sending this observation even tho I forgot what was written in my first attempt; I had seen this light weight looking aluminum racing bumper posted which looks fine for a bubble car at the 1/4 mile race track but on that car 91-96 it only has to support the urethane skin. But on the mid seventies B-Body cars 73-76, the front bumper looks more like the boom assembly off of an M88A2 Hercules Tank Retriever! . . . http://www.olive-drab.com/idphoto/id_photos_recovery_m88.php . . . That piston substitute looks as if its made of 6061 0.125" thick T4 sheet alum. I am having a hard time imagining his heavy "Brooklyn Bridge" of a front bumper not dropping under the front wheels of his car as he hits a pot-hole at 70 MPH. Unless of course he acid dips the shell and sub-support and drills it like swiss cheese. I believe the guy would have to make it out of AT LEAST 1/4" plate, but I'd use 5/16" or 3/8" and the tube, if aluminum, should be 4" diameter 1/4" wall T6 heat treat, then welded on both sides of the tube. Then I would trust it. Of course THAT would weigh more than the ones in the picture but they would be accurate, new, lighter than stock, affordable, & yes, strong enough. Probably just as well to make them out of hot rolled steel, cheap, strong and even more affordable than aluminum.
Back to top Go down
sdstick

avatar

Posts : 4284
Join date : 2009-03-20
Location : Revere, MA

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Wed Nov 24, 2010 6:04 am

Machine-De-Zine wrote:
I believe the guy would have to make it out of AT LEAST 1/4" plate, but I'd use 5/16" or 3/8" and the tube, if aluminum, should be 4" diameter 1/4" wall T6 heat treat, then welded on both sides of the tube. Then I would trust it. Of course THAT would weigh more than the ones in the picture but they would be accurate, new, lighter than stock, affordable, & yes, strong enough. Probably just as well to make them out of hot rolled steel, cheap, strong and even more affordable than aluminum.

Funny thing is....all this really doesnt matter cause Matt wont make a decision on this.
Earlier he waffled over the possibility of someone hitting him.
I understand Matt's a planner that takes action when ALL THE STARS ALIGN
Unless those fillers break up this tuck idea will only play in his head.
I just read the above before posting. Sounds harsh, but that isnt/wasnt my intention.

_________________
Steve


96BBB 28K 3.42 Bolt-ons
95BBB 100K 3.73 383 New DD...already broke fixt the 4L60E twice
95 Black WB4 Hole...ee...grail
96 Black WB4 No holes in this
95BBB 189K 3.08 Old DD Stolen...by Matt. Cool
Whine..eee...Silver LS6
Back to top Go down
M.ROSS

avatar

Posts : 443
Join date : 2009-01-21
Age : 57
Location : So.Portland/ME

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Wed Nov 24, 2010 12:07 pm

Machine-De-Zine wrote:
M.ROSS wrote:
Matt .Try contacting Mike Harris who makes the lightweight bumpers supports on ISSF
maybe he'll cut you a deal on just the bumper shock part.
I bought this for my car and didn't like the way it fit the bumper so i went with the stock support.
Let me retry sending this observation even tho I forgot what was written in my first attempt; I had seen this light weight looking aluminum racing bumper posted which looks fine for a bubble car at the 1/4 mile race track but on that car 91-96 it only has to support the urethane skin. But on the mid seventies B-Body cars 73-76, the front bumper looks more like the boom assembly off of an M88A2 Hercules Tank Retriever! . . . http://www.olive-drab.com/idphoto/id_photos_recovery_m88.php . . . That piston substitute looks as if its made of 6061 0.125" thick T4 sheet alum. I am having a hard time imagining his heavy "Brooklyn Bridge" of a front bumper not dropping under the front wheels of his car as he hits a pot-hole at 70 MPH. Unless of course he acid dips the shell and sub-support and drills it like swiss cheese. I believe the guy would have to make it out of AT LEAST 1/4" plate, but I'd use 5/16" or 3/8" and the tube, if aluminum, should be 4" diameter 1/4" wall T6 heat treat, then welded on both sides of the tube. Then I would trust it. Of course THAT would weigh more than the ones in the picture but they would be accurate, new, lighter than stock, affordable, & yes, strong enough. Probably just as well to make them out of hot rolled steel, cheap, strong and even more affordable than aluminum.
I apoligize i should have read the whole thread . Great info but a little wordy for my brain at 2 am LOL.
You're right the main reason i didn't use it was it didn't connect to enough of the urethane skin/bumper.
AND I'm sure Matts bumper are much heavier than a 90s .
Back to top Go down
Matt Trakker

avatar

Posts : 5080
Join date : 2009-07-30
Age : 35
Location : Reading, MA

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Wed Nov 24, 2010 4:20 pm

I honestly think I gave myself an umbilical hernia when I picked up the back bumper. LOL

There's a reason demo derby guys use pointy 1974 Impala/Caprice bumpers on other 1971-76 GM cars. Laughing
Back to top Go down
V8Killer

avatar

Posts : 1691
Join date : 2009-03-12
Age : 46
Location : Southern, NH

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Wed Nov 24, 2010 4:26 pm

Matt Trakker wrote:
I honestly think I gave myself an umbilical hernia when I picked up the back bumper. LOL

There's a reason demo derby guys use pointy 1974 Impala/Caprice bumpers on other 1971-76 GM cars. Laughing

Bring it up to the shop, I have a plasma-cutter that can fix that. Twisted Evil
Back to top Go down
Matt Trakker

avatar

Posts : 5080
Join date : 2009-07-30
Age : 35
Location : Reading, MA

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Mon Nov 29, 2010 8:53 pm

V8Killer wrote:
Matt Trakker wrote:
I honestly think I gave myself an umbilical hernia when I picked up the back bumper. LOL

There's a reason demo derby guys use pointy 1974 Impala/Caprice bumpers on other 1971-76 GM cars. Laughing

Bring it up to the shop, I have a plasma-cutter that can fix that. Twisted Evil

HMMMMMmmmmm.....lol

I actually made some progress today. Still a pain.








These were fun ^^^



Didn't fit perfect but the old ones didn't either:




Cool
Back to top Go down
1984twodoor

avatar

Posts : 4059
Join date : 2010-03-30
Age : 23
Location : Wilmington/Wakefield/Andover

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Mon Nov 29, 2010 9:55 pm

Looks pretty sweet dude! Smile

I do still wonder what the tuck looks like Question
Back to top Go down
M.ROSS

avatar

Posts : 443
Join date : 2009-01-21
Age : 57
Location : So.Portland/ME

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Tue Nov 30, 2010 1:13 am

Looks Great.
It always looked like a work in progress without the fillers.
I don't think it would look right tucked.
Kinda like those ugly flat rear bumpers some put on 90s bbodys.
Back to top Go down
GasTT

avatar

Posts : 2675
Join date : 2009-01-19
Age : 29
Location : Treasure Coast, FL

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Tue Nov 30, 2010 1:22 am

The fillers look good!

I agree mark. Those bumpers are hideous.
Back to top Go down
sdstick

avatar

Posts : 4284
Join date : 2009-03-20
Location : Revere, MA

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Tue Nov 30, 2010 6:09 am

Matt Trakker wrote:

I actually made some progress today.........


Cool
Well.....that just looks right cheers
I DO understand wanting to protect yourself from bumper bangers
Good work Arrow

_________________
Steve


96BBB 28K 3.42 Bolt-ons
95BBB 100K 3.73 383 New DD...already broke fixt the 4L60E twice
95 Black WB4 Hole...ee...grail
96 Black WB4 No holes in this
95BBB 189K 3.08 Old DD Stolen...by Matt. Cool
Whine..eee...Silver LS6
Back to top Go down
Matt Trakker

avatar

Posts : 5080
Join date : 2009-07-30
Age : 35
Location : Reading, MA

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Tue Nov 30, 2010 12:17 pm

Thanks guys! I think I'm proud of myself, this wasn't a huge "amount" of work, but it was a thousand times harder than it looked to get done.
This is how tucked bumpers would look (I don't even remember where I found these pictures, I'll reserve judgment on that car...lol)







I dunno, I still think I prefer this


I actually like the 74 nose the best in spite of the 5MPH bumpers, followed by the '71 and '73 cars...

I still have to contend with this issue:







I have no idea how I'll be able to get the fillers in there. If I put the bumper straight on, it hits the corner fillers and wrecks them. I tried wiggling one up from underneath but that didn't go over real well, and scratched the filler piece.
The pass. side rear of the bumper is pushed in from a fender bender (I can see where the lower quarter was pulled out and fixed) on the side, so I think I'll attach a come-along to that, put the other end on my truck's trailer hitch, then ratchet them together, hopefully pulling the bumper horn out. Then I might take the bumper back off, tape the fillers to it, then try reinstalling it that way if I can't get it on by wiggling it around with the fillers already bolted to the car. I wish I knew how the factory did this!

Back to top Go down
sdstick

avatar

Posts : 4284
Join date : 2009-03-20
Location : Revere, MA

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Tue Nov 30, 2010 12:22 pm

Screw it, tuck the rear.
If you get hit there...it's the other persons dime Razz

_________________
Steve


96BBB 28K 3.42 Bolt-ons
95BBB 100K 3.73 383 New DD...already broke fixt the 4L60E twice
95 Black WB4 Hole...ee...grail
96 Black WB4 No holes in this
95BBB 189K 3.08 Old DD Stolen...by Matt. Cool
Whine..eee...Silver LS6
Back to top Go down
toomanytoyz
Club President
avatar

Posts : 6877
Join date : 2009-01-20
Age : 40
Location : East Hampstead, NH USA

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Tue Nov 30, 2010 7:52 pm

sdstick wrote:
Screw it, tuck the rear.Razz

Times two!!!! Very Happy

Front looks great!

And you need new shoes.

_________________
Bill "The Verb" Crovo - Resident Car Slut & Unicorn Hunter

A Toasted Marshmallow, A Long German, A Lame Suburban and expensive dreams...
Missing all my previous B's, D's and V... Sad
American Ricer
www.badassofne.net
"Ooooh! Look! Something shiny!"
NO MORE UNICORNS!!!!!

LOWER IT!!! Wink
Back to top Go down
http://impalass.uniquekind.net/
Guest
Guest



PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Tue Nov 30, 2010 8:02 pm

F#$k it! Tuck it! cheers Arrow
Back to top Go down
1984twodoor

avatar

Posts : 4059
Join date : 2010-03-30
Age : 23
Location : Wilmington/Wakefield/Andover

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Tue Nov 30, 2010 9:38 pm

IMPALADAKID wrote:
F#$k it! Tuck it! cheers Arrow

^^Simply put Laughing

DO IT! Very Happy
Back to top Go down
LiveFreeorDieTryin



Posts : 90
Join date : 2009-02-14
Location : Monroe, Wisconsin

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Tue Nov 30, 2010 10:46 pm

I think they look good with the fillers, but since your rear is f'ed up anyway, I say tuck it!
Back to top Go down
Matt Trakker

avatar

Posts : 5080
Join date : 2009-07-30
Age : 35
Location : Reading, MA

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Wed Dec 01, 2010 2:55 pm

toomanytoyz wrote:


And you need new shoes.

LMFAO. Don't get me started on those things. I had a pair I beat the crap out of that were awesome, got another pair from Shoebacca.com (these) and they SUCKED. Squeaked from day one like nobody's business, so I reverted them to auto repair/yard work/ruin your shoes duty even though they looked new.

I'd tuck it, but I think it would look weird from the side with the back tucked and not the front. I dunno.

I just found this place-

http://sandkindustries.com/

Says they have 74-76 Impala ones, and they are flexible, unlike the dumb fiberglass ones.
Back to top Go down
sdstick

avatar

Posts : 4284
Join date : 2009-03-20
Location : Revere, MA

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Wed Dec 01, 2010 3:47 pm

"Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!" Thu Nov 18, 2010 9:16 pm ,
toomanytoyz wrote:


You really should. Wink ......
"Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!" Wed Dec 01, 2010 2:55 pm ,
Matt Trakker wrote:

I'd tuck it, but I think it would look weird from the side with the back tucked and not the front. I dunno......

And the cycle starts agin...... Sleep ....... Razz

_________________
Steve


96BBB 28K 3.42 Bolt-ons
95BBB 100K 3.73 383 New DD...already broke fixt the 4L60E twice
95 Black WB4 Hole...ee...grail
96 Black WB4 No holes in this
95BBB 189K 3.08 Old DD Stolen...by Matt. Cool
Whine..eee...Silver LS6
Back to top Go down
Matt Trakker

avatar

Posts : 5080
Join date : 2009-07-30
Age : 35
Location : Reading, MA

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Wed Dec 01, 2010 3:57 pm

sdstick wrote:
"Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!" Thu Nov 18, 2010 9:16 pm ,
toomanytoyz wrote:


You really should. Wink ......
"Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!" Wed Dec 01, 2010 2:55 pm ,
Matt Trakker wrote:

I'd tuck it, but I think it would look weird from the side with the back tucked and not the front. I dunno......

And the cycle starts agin...... Sleep ....... Razz

Did I mention that I have no internet and I'm at the library? Anyone have any recommendations? What's a good laptop actually?

afro
Back to top Go down
sdstick

avatar

Posts : 4284
Join date : 2009-03-20
Location : Revere, MA

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Wed Dec 01, 2010 4:04 pm

Are you READING? What time is it?
Is the fat lady there hazing up the joint?
Internet is over-rated
HP Pavilion dv6t Select Edition Entertai XC102AV 1 $699.99

_________________
Steve


96BBB 28K 3.42 Bolt-ons
95BBB 100K 3.73 383 New DD...already broke fixt the 4L60E twice
95 Black WB4 Hole...ee...grail
96 Black WB4 No holes in this
95BBB 189K 3.08 Old DD Stolen...by Matt. Cool
Whine..eee...Silver LS6
Back to top Go down
Matt Trakker

avatar

Posts : 5080
Join date : 2009-07-30
Age : 35
Location : Reading, MA

PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   Sat Jul 19, 2014 11:04 pm

I thought I'd bring this thread back up as an update-

It's hard to believe almost 4 years has past since I did this repair...most of them have held up great, BUT:

I forgot if I mentioned it in this thread, but I had a body guy tell me "you need to sand the fillers down to nothing and then repaint them"...those ones cracked and he was misinformed. The ones with old paint simply scuffed did not, except the RF, which was stressed form not fitting perfectly, and cracked a few weeks ago. That one blew apart on 93 after a piece had already come off, I was using the car on that movie a couple days ago and noticed a hole in front of my car...so that's F'd up again, lol.  Rolling Eyes 
I should have redrilled the mounting holes on that one so it might have been okay.
Back to top Go down
Sponsored content




PostSubject: Re: "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"   

Back to top Go down
 
"Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"
View previous topic View next topic Back to top 
Page 1 of 1
 Similar topics
-
» "Dude, you should tuck your bumpers!"
» Card Ruling at Diamond Dude?
» Custom Bumpers
» yahooo!! back dude!ç
» best place to buy smoothie bumpers??

Permissions in this forum:You cannot reply to topics in this forum
BADASS of New England :: 91-96 B & D-body tech :: Problems / Maintenance-
Jump to: