Front shocks

OK so if the post on the top where its threaded and supposed to have a hex head is stripped and corroded, how should I go about removing it?

If I jack up the lower control arm can I sneak a sawzall in there where the rubber bushing is to chop it off?

Take a deep 9/16 socket and at least a one foot extension. Place this combo over the top shock bolt, and go back and forth until the stud fractures.
This should take less than five minutes to do both sides.

Sweet I'll try that tomorrow.

I tried that didn't work. Ended up using a tiny grinding wheel and ground the nut off.

No Moa wrote:

I tried that didn't work. Ended up using a tiny grinding wheel and ground the nut off.

Really?

I have done it several times, and it has never failed. I have had some fracture quicker than others, but I have a 100% success rate with that method.

No Moa wrote:

I tried that didn't work. Ended up using a tiny grinding wheel and ground the nut off.

I was going to try that too. If the snap off method doesn't work ill try it.

OK so bending it back and forth didn't work so well. I ended up raising the suspension with a block of wood and a jack. Then I snuck a sawzall blade in there and hacked it off. New front shocks are in. I'm pretty sure everything on this car is original. Even the exhaust is all original.. which is starting to fall off due to broken stuff. Next up: rear air shocks.

Here are some belly pics I took.

Looks clean underneath, Tim.

Tom C.

Is that the roadie? Nice.

Wow, thats really clean. Not bad at all. Quick hit with a 3M wheel and some undercoat and that thing is good to go.

toomanytoyz wrote:

Is that the roadie? Nice.

Yes sir

Cadet57 wrote:

Wow, thats really clean. Not bad at all. Quick hit with a 3M wheel and some undercoat and that thing is good to go.

The rust you can see is just surface rust and should buzz right off. I hope to do something under the car before the salt flys.

That turned out to be a good find.
You can put bandaids on that exhaust for years.
I'd concentrate on the undercoating.
Not much time left before it gets cool out.
Good luck with it.

sdstick wrote:

That turned out to be a good find.
You can put bandaids on that exhaust for years.
I'd concentrate on the undercoating.
Not much time left before it gets cool out.
Good luck with it.

I already "re-hung" the exhaust using this cool golden coat hanger. The cat is loose in the front and back I am going to bring it to my exhaust guy for a new flange and clamp and it should be good to go. It's funny because the exhaust will be loud then ill hit a bump and it will be quiet again.

GasTT wrote:

sdstick wrote:

That turned out to be a good find.
You can put bandaids on that exhaust for years.
I'd concentrate on the undercoating.
Not much time left before it gets cool out.
Good luck with it.

I already "re-hung" the exhaust using this cool golden coat hanger. The cat is loose in the front and back I am going to bring it to my exhaust guy for a new flange and clamp and it should be good to go. It's funny because the exhaust will be loud then ill hit a bump and it will be quiet again.

I had a problem like that on my Blazer when I first bought it. Only the entire exhaust system would disconnect from the cat and fall off...haha

If you undercoat, brush something like Rustoleum paint on there after grinding down, then spray the undercoating. Also, don't use Mar-Hyde...I tried it on part of my truck's wheelwell last year when I ran out of 3M, and that stuff already started to peel off. It took forever to dry too. 3M Professional Undercoating is teh awesomeness, dries fast, is tough, and has a nice texture to it...but the nozzle tends to clog up so you have to keep it clean with mineral spirits.

Matt Trakker wrote:

I had a problem like that on my Blazer when I first bought it. Only the entire exhaust system would disconnect from the cat and fall off...haha

If you undercoat, brush something like Rustoleum paint on there after grinding down, then spray the undercoating. Also, don't use Mar-Hyde...I tried it on part of my truck's wheelwell last year when I ran out of 3M, and that stuff already started to peel off. It took forever to dry too. 3M Professional Undercoating is teh awesomeness, dries fast, is tough, and has a nice texture to it...but the nozzle tends to clog up so you have to keep it clean with mineral spirits.

A buddy of mine has a problem like that...kinda. He keeps the muffler off and in his shed until he needs inspection, then he clamps it on and crosses his fingers lol

GasTT wrote:

sdstick wrote:

That turned out to be a good find.
You can put bandaids on that exhaust for years.
I'd concentrate on the undercoating.
Not much time left before it gets cool out.
Good luck with it.

I already "re-hung" the exhaust using this cool golden coat hanger. The cat is loose in the front and back I am going to bring it to my exhaust guy for a new flange and clamp and it should be good to go. It's funny because the exhaust will be loud then ill hit a bump and it will be quiet again.

I remember those days

I had the same problem when removing my front shocks....

I torched one off and my buddy wrenched on the top nut until the stud broke off....

Just torch em both off

I cut them out with a sawzall. I think I am going to brush some anti seize on it so should I ever want to replace them or remove them for any reason I want it to be easy.