opti?fuel pump? SHIT THE BED

was running fine all day.. when iwent to go start it up didnt want to, took awhile ..stays running but when i go to put it in drive it shuts down

last week fuel line was slice by the body and had that section replaced.

WHAT COULD IT BE

i think its the fuel pump.. the first time i turn the key i didnt hear the fuel pump prime, so i let the car run for a couple of minutes. i shut it off i took the fuel pump fuse out then put it back in , and now i hear the fuel pump and it runs fine..


is it time for a new fuel pump?

you could try a new relay first but you should check fuel pressure first when it dont start

You had a section of line replaced? Are you sure you don't have any leaks in the system?

Check fuel pressure first like Bob said. Also take a look for leaks around the repair. If no leaks and pressure is down then it's almost certainly a FP problem.

Don't forget to check the fuel cap. Sometimes those leak and it reduces the pressure and causes issues starting.

run a power wire to the fuel pump test connector "it's near the under hood fuse box" this will bye pass all
fuses and relays

Gary Meier (LS1MM6) showed me that trick. A length of wire that will reach your +positive+ Battery terminal from that wire as shown ^^^ above. You will here it prime.

Reverse polarity?

You can also scan for errors. DTC16 IIRC if the opit or opti wiring is bad. Do you have a tach? If it opti or opti related you won't see any RPMs on the tach while cranking.

Make any headway on this, Rich? Was it the FP relay? Check your grounds back there?

i cant find the fuel prime connector. i saw a connector(red wire) but i dont think that was it . would it be tucked somewhere?

Fuel pump went out on me again.. i will have to check pressure 2morrow

I can give you a hand with it if you need to swap it out. Just have to figure out a time that works.

where are you going to be 2morrow morning/afternoon?

IIRC it's red on the Bs. There is only one like it near that location.

I'm going to be at the hospital tomorrow afternoon and then need to drive Laura to school from there. When's your next day off?

am i suppose to check the fuel pressure when the car is acting up or when it is fine?.. if I am suppose to check it when its running/or key in on position fine i got 38-40

you can check now it should be 43.5 psi with vacuum line to regulator pluged engine running,
racers will check theirs in 3rd at 6800 rpms,gauge taped to window

if yours is at 43.5 psi you will have to test it later when it gives you a problem

its at 38-40 psi runnning connected to the schrader valve..

you need to take the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator to check

does it start better after you played with the fuse?

Dont you LOVE has an intermittent problem.
FP does that, so do many other things
Did you say the fuel filter has been replaced?
Silly but also easy (unless you find cancerous brake line back there uughh)
Did you check the grounds in the trunk? Have you seen the harness by the tank?
I say screw it, tape the gauge to the windshield & drive laps locally.
Everytime you get home turn it off & on til the problem shows its ugly side.
Have you taken it out & beat the piss outta it? WOT stuff?
Did you spray the MAF? check all vacuum lines & wiring
Did you get a maintenace record guestimate from Doug?
I was begging for answers when my car was abusing me

So early morning 12am heading to work i start my car , i dont hear the fuel pump. but of course i cant test pressure because i have o be at work at 1215am.(so running late)

So I get off work..check the imp out no priming and i check the pressure and its 10psi ..

looks like i'll be getting that racetronix fuel pump for $170 because i will be adding more mods to the imp..

if anyone has any fuel pump suggestions let me kno ASAP.... 857-204-3670 Rich

BoSStonsSS wrote:

So early morning 12am heading to work i start my car , i dont hear the fuel pump. but of course i cant test pressure because i have o be at work at 1215am.(so running late)

So I get off work..check the imp out no priming and i check the pressure and its 10psi ..

looks like i'll be getting that racetronix fuel pump for $170 because i will be adding more mods to the imp..

if anyone has any fuel pump suggestions let me kno ASAP.... 857-204-3670 Rich

Make sure to upgrade the harness as well, and replace the sock, and inline filter.

IMPALADAKID wrote:

BoSStonsSS wrote:

So early morning 12am heading to work i start my car , i dont hear the fuel pump. but of course i cant test pressure because i have o be at work at 1215am.(so running late)

So I get off work..check the imp out no priming and i check the pressure and its 10psi ..

looks like i'll be getting that racetronix fuel pump for $170 because i will be adding more mods to the imp..

if anyone has any fuel pump suggestions let me kno ASAP.... 857-204-3670 Rich

Make sure to upgrade the harness as well, and replace the sock, and inline filter.

doesnt all of that come with the walbro 255 kit? http://www.racetronix.biz/customkititems.asp?kc=RFPK%2D004&eq=

Dont know if this link will be any help but if your alone, it may give you a couple of pointers.
https://badass-of-ne.forumotion.com/problems-maintenance-f4/quick-fuel-pump-swap-t712.htm?highlight=fuel+pump
1) Check it out & use PC blaster a day or so BEFORE you do the job
That way if you need hardware, straps,fuel lines you'll have them
(Crovo was 100% right when he said the fuel line connectors can be a problem)
2) Relieve fuel pressure. Either way when you disconnect the feed & return lines it'll try to piss in your eye
3) Make sure you have no gas (at least after you remove it) Gas in tank=PIA
4) Make sure you tie a pull string (good quality tough line) to the old harness when removing. I didnt upgrade this on my 95 just a suggestion from years of pulling cable
5) Dont forget the fuel filler neck bolts behind the license plate
6) Beg for help cause then someone can hear you when you complain

I didn't see this before Rich, Just FYI if you did not see it from the records and when you looked underneath, the fuel filter was done this past summer and the rear brake line showed it's rusty head at that time and was replaced as well. That's about all I can recall for fuel related things.

I hate that it is doing this to you because it NEVER ever gave me any issues like that, sucks dude.

Good luck with everything

Doug

you might want this to
BLT1 Bulkhead Connector Assembly

http://www.racetronix.biz/printitem.asp?Source=CK&ic=BTL1%2DBCA

Rich is a jinx. Once he owns a car everything goes wrong with it

Rich I pm'ed you. I have all the tools you need for the job. I just need to find them

bammax wrote:

Rich is a jinx. Once he owns a car everything goes wrong with it

Rich I pm'ed you. I have all the tools you need for the job. I just need to find them

PM'D U BACK...

you would

I'm just messin with ya

I'll check the schedule and get back to you

ALRIGHT COOOL...

F#$%ING BOLTS ARE A PAIN IN THE ASS.. JUST ONE F'ING BOL IS GIVING ME A PROBLEM JUST ONE.. THE BOLTS CLOSEST THE BUMPERS WERE ACTUALLY THE EASIEST ONES/ ITS THE ONE TOWARDS THE FRAME( JUST ONE) THE OTHER UNBOLTS FINE.. AND OF COURSE MY EXHAUST PIPES ARE IN THE WAY..

NOW JUST GONNA HAVE TO PB BLAST THE HELL OUT IT AND WAIT TI 2MORROW MORNING.( GETTING DARK)

Rich,
Ron had sent me this link back in August, it's since updated but was fast delivery
Back then it was $59 & it said make me an offer I offered $45 & he took it
I was just throwing $ at the job to make it go away
The width of the strap at the rear of the car is about 1/16-1/8 to wide
Grind down before paint & your good to go
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RST186-1991-1996-BUICK-ROADMASTER-GAS-TANK-STRAPS_W0QQitemZ120486116836QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item1c0d883de4

rich. there now down to $49.00. or best offer. good luck with the job. hope that fixes the problem. dont forget the pics. i cant post. but i like looking at them.

JOB IS DONE ...... THANKS TO EVERYONE THAT GAVE ME ADVICE. SPECIAL THANKS TO STEVE (SDTICK) FOR ANSWERING HIS PHONE WHEN I NEEDED HELP.. I ONLY TOOK A COUPLE OF PICS BECAUSE I WAS FRUSTRATED MOST OF THE TIME. WILL POST 2MORROW..

CAR SEEMS A BIT FASTER.. GONNA INSTALL THE HARNESS 2MORROW

Glad it worked out for you. Sorry I couldn't be there to help. I was elbow deep in the Omega today so it just wasn't going to happen. I'll do my best to help out next time you break something. It shouldn't take long

SMELLING GAS!!! I TIGHTENED THAT EVAP HOSE THAT WOULD CAUSE THAT.. STILL SMELLING IT

WHAT CAN BE THE PROBLEM?

you might need a new o-ring in the fuel lines

If you can smell it you should be able to see it
Check both ends, fuel filter & there's 1 more between the filter & the front but I've never seen it (somewhere below the A pillar at the frame?)
Didnt you say you had a repair done?
Sniff it out

FIGURE OUT WHERE THE SMELL IS COMING FROM.. THE IDIOT THAT DOUG GOT THE CAR FROM DRILL A SCREW IN THE GAS TANK TO MOUNT THE SUBWOOFER.. SO I GUESS WHEN I DROPPED AND PUT IT BACK MUSTVE MADE A BIGGER HOLE..
SMH


WHAT NEXT!!!!!

Well How could you know?
At least your now certified & you know the hardware is fresh
JB Weld FTW
I bet Brad will be available this time now that its snowy & freezing

I knew because i sniffed and felt around in the trunk and saw it wet but the screw. i have jb weld but i will not be dropping the tank its too shitty out... jus gonna see how much a shop will do to drop it

WTF!!!! Nowwww. Don't hear fuel pump priming. When I put the hazards on the car it drives.

What are the three hoses that connect to the fuel pump. The3rd hose to the right.

3/8 feed
5/16 return
3/8 vent
Thats not your problem. No prime = electrical
How did you ever figure out your hazzards start the car WTF???
Maybe a grounding issue?
Unplug your harness under the tank & check with multimeter
Whichever is ground should be 0 continuity ALL the time

Ground issue.

sdstick wrote:

Unplug your harness under the tank & check with multimeter
Whichever is ground should be 0 continuity ALL the time

I ef'd up here it should HAVE continuity ALL the time
1 side if meter to harness (car side not tank side) other side to good ground
meter should read the same as touching the 2 sides of the meter together
(in ohms setting)

Fuel pump and tail lights are some how connected. My blinker and brake lights make my pump whine change pitch. I'd say the spot where the systems connect is the spot that's screwing you right now.

I'm pretty sure the fuel pump/sender uses the ground in the trunk on the left up under by the hinge. that ground should be the same in the harness (plug) to sender connection
Check that wiring