New (to me) RMS

Yea, more tire is right! I don't want huge stock SS size tires (after seeing Billy's. Looks good, just TOO much sidewall IMO). I'll end up just putting the lace wheels and tires back on (once I fix the flat). These here are bald on the inside front tires, so I can't keep driving like that. No $ for tires. That's why I'm trying to sell shet.

I'm prepping the '96 for the wonderful job of replacing the flexplate. I also have Spohn solid bars and bushings to install, put autox springs back in, finish corvette fuel rail cover install, and all kinds of other crap. By then, it'll be fall and time to be put away. It'll probably stay on my back patio too. Since I have two immobile box 9C1s hogging up the work space.

I think those wheels look good on that car regahdliss, kehd. The spokes match the paint. Haha.

Yes they do! And, it looks badass. I REALLY need the wagon bumper!!

I got around to replacing the left turn signal return/canceling spring. Sure enough, it was broken. I ordered the set from eBay.




Here's the write up I read before jumping in. The clock springs are a pita btw

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=251021&highlight=Turn+signal

I have a write up on here too

https://badass-of-ne.forumotion.com/t3822-diy-turn-signal-switch

But I guess all my pics are gone.

Yea. There's a bunch of other good threads with all the damn pics missing ie "   "

I figure, what the hell? Why not give the old girl a little more than what she been given in the past.

I've got a set of BBK shorties I'm going to put on. I have to strip, coat, wrap, and coat again. I picked up all the VHT stuff I needed, today at Advance. I ordered some new gaskets too. Keep your fingers crossed I don't snap any studs. If I plan this right, the entire nose of the car will be missing when I install these. I'd like to add some cheapo but louder mufflers and some new OTA/tails minus resonators.

I'm pretty dead set on adding a sun roof too. With all that, the nose swap, rust repair, new paint, and some other surprises, she'll be a brand new woman.

Brian look into the summit racing street strip mufflers I have on my wagon. They really sound great for the price. 2.5" offset in/out.

I will. Thanks Tim!

175k and the seat belt warning light burned out. I'm not upset...



Sprayed a few coats of DEI on these today. A few more coats tomorrow, then 2" DEI wrap, stainless ties, and more DEI spray to seal it all in. Any suggestions on flange/cat gaskets or new studs for the headers themselves? It's my understanding that GM no longer shows the PN for the round spacers. Here's to hoping all mine are still there. I suppose I could use something else. I'm looking for the black grade 8 hardware. Yes, I know. My pool is now green. It's already been fixed since the pic I thank the rain for that and taking down some big tree limbs. I'm gonna have to build an exoskeleton around my house...



Tossed the lace rims back on too. Better tread on these tires. Surprisingly, the krylon "chrome" paint matches these wheels perfectly! I sprayed some spare caps I got from Crovo. That way I don't have any chevy or bow tie emblems on a Buick.

Had the OTA pipe come loose from the muffler on the drivers side. I'd've left it (sounds nice) but the whole OTA and tail pipe clanging around was really starting to wear me thin. That and the heat shield in front of the gas tank chattering and banging around was really pissing me off.

I ripped out the heat shield after I undid the 3 7mm bolts that secure it to the floor pan shield. I'm pretty sure there's supposed to be more than just the 3. Pretty crusty regahdless.

The rear underside of this Buick is in far better shape than I actually thought. If I strip it all, patch up some stuff, and do some rust proofing, we should be good. Why not? You know? I'm tired of seeing B bodies go to the crusher because people are talentless when it comes to repairs. I don't have all the right tools or experience, but it's going to happen. Most would get rid of the car, but why? Cuz it's rusty? I'd rather save it.

Anyway, I'm provably going to toss these tails and put turn downs on the mufflers. Eventually I'd like to get the pypes x pipe and some mufflers Tim suggested.

I wrapped the headers up. I'm letting them cure before I apply the DEI costing.

Pics! I need a sand blaster or something

yes, having a sandblaster is nice. I have 2. Did a whole frame once. Gross, sand in all the cracks for days.

End result was worth it tho.

I'd like to get a set of N97 wheels sandblasted while you can still buy 15 in tires.

Thats pretty cool . Someday I'll have one. Someday.

Real simple to build. I made mine out of scrap for a total investment of $20.

Jim, I'll let you know when I get setup at the new place.

Out with this garbage  

No rear brakes, rear sway bar fell off last night while driving (my own fault).

All is well.

Sway bar? oh sh!t! I was looking at the pics and she looks in pretty good shape for a NE cah.

It's my fault. I took it off to replace the lower control arms ( rotted) and never torqued the sway bar bolts back.

Don't feel bad. Once I didn't torque the rear caliper bolts Snapped the effin brake hose right off. Can't hurry brakes!

Tomz9C1 wrote:

Don't feel bad.  Once I didn't torque the rear caliper bolts  Snapped the effin brake hose right off.  Can't hurry brakes!

Nope. Never hurry brakes! Especially bleeding them.

Oh well. I'll get to all of this stuff someday.

Damn. Did you get to retrieve that bar that fell off or repurpose one of your boxy 9c1 bars? lol.

The one on the S.S. Ess Ess was hanging off, I redid one side with all new hardware and brackets, then the other side came loose...nine months later lol. When i fixed that and got it all tight, the friggin' shocks jiggled loose!

Yea I got it. Was dragging on the road. Used stainless ties to get it home. Pouring rain. Wasn't happy. Only one bolt/nut left. Oh well.

Hey, at least you'll have spare parts and brackets if you need them, I had to figure out the thread cutting bolts/screws and brackets and crap then order them online, lol

Not really. I have 2 bolts, 1 sleeve, one bracket, and 1 nut.

These were the updated control arms I took from the 96 because the stock ones on the Buick were rotted through and bent.

Maybe a good thing I bought the whole shebang from GM still sealed in the bag. Probably won't ever open it, but I have it.

Where to begin with this boat?

Had a wheel cylinder burst on me sometime back. Inspection sticker now expired, I replaced said wheel cylinder. Whist bleeding the system, the front to rear line blew. Awesome. Said to hell with it and put it in the shop for someone wake to deal with. Brake lines front to rear wheels replaced. They go to bleed the brakes, the OTHER wheel cylinder blows. Great. No inspection sticker today. Drove it home, parked it. Wife cane home and I went out and bought another new wheel cylinder. It's a good thing they're cheap.

Still haven't finished the trans shift lever for the center console lol.

Exhaust is dumped after the mufflers. Sounds pissah!

I've acquired EVERYTHING I need for the nose swap except for the wagon bumper/cover.

Going to be switching to a non power antenna once I find one.

A tree branch fell and hit the top of the drivers quarter. Someone dinged the passenger front door in a parking lot.

Good thing I plan on putting 95/96 doors on there. Also need that rear passenger door replaced too. Adding up $$$$!

Still a sweet ride regardless. It could always be worse, I could be driving a jeep, in denial lolololol j/k Billy.

If anyone ever (reads this) finds a set of 70s Electra poverty caps, lmk!

I'm pretty set on the same color for the repaint once I'm done with my Frankenstein.

Why waste time and $ on this car? Why not? People put $ in to rusted civics and jettas.

SAVE THE WHALES.

Brake line blew out in the Fleetwood too. I finally replaced it, 6 months later. Went to open the rear bleeders, nope. Replaced both cylinders, shoes, drums, hardware the whole SHE-BANG. Good as new.

All set! Took the 20 minutes to swap in new wheel cylinder, early this morning. Had the brakes bled. Passed inspection no problem. Now, to swap in disc brakes next year, or no.....

Some pics...
17" REV Classics from the 9C1






N97s




'95 sighting!


Cozy


Voodoo limousine (hurse) sighting


Some sweet damage I shamefully debut at the fall roundup.


Old drivers seat vs new drivers seat. New one already ripped in the same spot the previous owner duct taped the old seat. Smh.




Swiss cheese air box. Noob mod.


Unpainted sewer pipe, AIR delete, TB bypass, new WP.



Buick Electra poverty caps I'm looking for.

Those limited seats seemed to be limited on stitching.

IMPALADAKID wrote:

Those limited seats seemed to be limited on stitching.

Ha! You're not kidding!

In a perfect world, I'd like to put in SS seats front and rear but swap the "SS" headrests for the "limited" headrests.

I certainly don't have $400-$500 for those seats....

I'm glad to see you're still plugging away with that car Brian, it could have met a much worse fate, lol

This is true. I thoroughly enjoy the heck out of driving this car. It'll be even better if I can find quarter panels and doors. I don't want to half ass these quarters, but push comes to shove, I can't have another season of water and salt and dirt being sprayed inside the car.

Sheet metal, rivets and a sealant.

GasTT wrote:

Sheet metal, rivets and a sealant.

NO

Here you go Brian, everything you need, but not around the corner. He's a member on the Impala Forum.

http://daytona.craigslist.org/pts/4756530488.html

Tom

Tks. All I he has that id need are the rear pass door and quarters. Probably gonna be killed on shipping

GasTT wrote:

Sheet metal, rivets and a sealant.

That is actually a fine way to fix it. That or use some sheetmetal screws so you can back them out unlike the rivets. Whatever you do, you can cut it out when you go back to fix it the right way. Even one droplet of water entering the car where it shouldn't be is worse than patching with some sheetmetal, lol.

Matt Trakker wrote:

GasTT wrote:

Sheet metal, rivets and a sealant.

That is actually a fine way to fix it.  That or use some sheetmetal screws so you can back them out unlike the rivets.  Whatever you do, you can cut it out when you go back to fix it the right way.  Even one droplet of water entering the car where it shouldn't be is worse than patching with some sheetmetal, lol.

Lol. Matt, you go first, I'll wait...

That is exactly how I fixed the hole in the rear wheel well of my Fleetwood. No more noise, no more wet back seat. Right way? No, but it worked. When I pull the carpet to swap the interior it will be fixed like it never happened.

GasTT wrote:

That is exactly how I fixed the hole in the rear wheel well of my Fleetwood. No more noise, no more wet back seat. Right way? No, but it worked. When I pull the carpet to swap the interior it will be fixed like it never happened.

True. I just need the replacement panels already. It'll be fixed right eventually.

I'd like to put in a 9C1 rubber floor for ease and clean-ability. The rug in this car isn't the best. Especially since water was coming in the rear seat.

I feel like the rubber floors cause rust for some reason, more than carpeting. I'd take the carpet out, and power wash it in the summer with some Simple Green or whatever then let it dry. Then put some Husky mats in there. I put those in my last 2 trucks and they're amazing!

Matt Trakker wrote:

I feel like the rubber floors cause rust for some reason, more than carpeting.

Explain your reasoning. Heavy rugs made of cloth and fiber absorb and trap moisture. The rubber floor is nonporous and any water you bring into the car, will not touch the floor pan underneath. My case in point is the box body 9C1s we have and the Buick itself. The passenger front floor pan toe area has a rot hole in it. Possibly from wet salty shoes? The box body 9C1s all have (3) rubber floors EXCEPT 1. The one that did have full carpeting had completely rotted out floors front and back. Flintstone style. It was the "newest" (1990) with the LEAST amount of miles. Not to mention the MOLD. Any rust on the floors in both 89s and the 88 were external, started where the seats bolt through the material, or where there was wear/cuts/cracks in the material. Front drivers floor pan is the evidence of that statement for the tan '89. The windshield in the Buick leaks, and is probably leaking pretty bad right about now, onto the floor. I'd rather have rubber boots than common running shoes on a fishing boat is all I'm saying. If you want the carpet, you can have it.

Gotta agree with Brian. For a daily driver nothing beats rubber floors...until they get a hole. Once they get a hole, the same reason why they're so good is why they become terrible. Perfectly sealed the floor will be brand new after 30 years. One little hole, the whole floor could be toast in a few years due to the trapped moisture with NO way to get out. All my cars have had carpet and all have some rust from the inside out. I blame the carpets/insulation.

Point observed, but from my years of reading on the forums and such, the 9c1s with the rubber floors exhibited weird rust issues just as badly. If the car develops a water leak, it can get under the rubber floor also. It's really no better than a vinyl top on the roof of the car.

Also, from what I've seen, a rust hole in the center of the pass. toeboard is a very common occurrence, on all B-bodies. I have no idea why but I'm guessing there's a point on the outer floor pan there where layers meet together.  That all starts on the outside...

If you want to pull everything out and do it all over because the seats out already, that's one thing...however if I had a nice nice car with a carpet in it, I would put Husky Liners over the carpet instead of "installing" a rubber floor in it's place!

In the end, the only cause of rust around here is really road salt and salt-air from being near the ocean. If you leave it unattended it will get everywhere and rust ways into the car...once a hole goes into the car it just gets worse and worse! lol

When you say, "nice, nice car" I hope you're not referring to the Buick. At least not yet. Darkest before dawn kind of thing I suppose.

I'll stick with my armor all-able rubber floor and you can have your water logged carpet and recycled fiber insulation. Easier to clean up with kids too. Half eaten tootsie pop on gray carpet vs rubber floor? Since the carpet was already chopped up for the center console, I figured wth, 9C1 floor. It works IN my 9C1 with the same setup . The decision is mostly for the reasons stated above. Plus the fact that it's black in color and I'll be adding some black colored accents to some of the interior. Giving it some more depth. Painting the console gray to match too. Same gray as the SS interior, no?

Roadmaster overheated on me on the highway en route to a VA appointment. There was no chance I was gonna stop with it in the single digits, with my 3 year old in the car, and risk being stranded. So I drove it back home.

I'm not sure what happened, it's kinda cold to be messing around in the driveway.

Looks like a bad cap...unless you cracked it open already.
Always was amazed that the cap will cause them to overheat...but...

Haven't cracked it open yet. Was still boiling. Sounds like plenty of coolant in the system still.

Thinking it's the cap. Kinda stuck until wife gets home. Can't drive to the store to get coolant. Have 2 other cars, but you know .

Only other cap I have is on my 9C1. I'm not canibalizing that car. I ordered a new cap from Hamilton Chevrolet. If there was enough room for steam to pour out as it was, maybe there was enough room for coolant to spray out. If the negative temps somehow compromised the cap overnight, and caused the system to be depressurized, I can see this happening. Air in the system, coolant boiled, etc. I didn't notice the fans running or not as I turned the car off as soon as I got in the driveway. All the noticeable leaked coolant is directly under or in the immediate area of the overflow tank.

The Buick has a new HC, WP, and t stat. System was flushed and filled etc. that was last year or shortly after I bought it in 2013. No problems with cooling, heat, or anything like that until this morning.