BADASS of New England

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 Electrical issues

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bammax



Posts : 2301
Join date : 2009-02-22
Age : 35
Location : Mansfield, Ma

PostSubject: Electrical issues   Fri Oct 09, 2009 9:11 pm

My car is an electrical nightmare. The alternator overcharges and as the car runs the voltage continues to drop until the wipers stop wiping and the blinkers nearly stop blinking. As soon as I rev the engine the volts pick back up but they don't hold there. I've had the battery and alternator tested and both check out ok. The aux post has been replaced. That makes me think it's a ground issue.

I've added Gary's battery cables which was when the overcharging first started. The slow drain was always present.

1) I redid the battery to body ground and it didn't help much.
2) The engine to body ground is still ok.
3) The battery to engine looks like it may not be making metal to metal contact but I can't reach my dremel in far enough to grind the block down to bare metal.
4) I don't seem to have any ground going to the frame from either the body or the engine.

Is it likely that number 3 or 4 is the culprit here? If so then what solutions can people provide for fixing this problem? I already purchased a ground strap to run to the frame, but I don't know if it should run from the body or the engine, and I don't know where to attatch it to.
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bammax



Posts : 2301
Join date : 2009-02-22
Age : 35
Location : Mansfield, Ma

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:43 pm

Update....

The battery cables running to the fender and the engine are now rock solid and to bare metal. The cable to the starter is clean and tight. The cable to the fuse block is clean and tight. The cable to the alternator is clean and tight. The problem is still there.

An added side note. Once again I'm getting static from the rear speakers even though the stereo is turned off. Somewhere I must have a bad ground feeding into the system somewhere along the chassis harness.

I'm going to unhook my headlight wiring harness and see if it helps any. Then I'll try to clean up the grounds on the coil. If those 2 things don't work then I have a major problem because I'm going to be completely out of ideas. If anyone can suggest some other things to look into please do so. I have a digital volt meter so I can check for voltage leaks but I don't know where specifically to check. And I don't know how to use the other features of the meter like checking resistence and stuff so if someone recomends any of that stuff I need to look into how to do it Embarassed
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sdstick



Posts : 4278
Join date : 2009-03-20
Location : Revere, MA

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Sun Oct 11, 2009 11:45 pm

Try pulling 1 fuse & / or relay at a time & see if you notice any changes
Obviously some cant be pulled without shutting you down but check all others

_________________
Steve


96BBB 28K 3.42 Bolt-ons
95BBB 100K 3.73 383 New DD...already broke fixt the 4L60E twice
95 Black WB4 Hole...ee...grail
96 Black WB4 No holes in this
95BBB 189K 3.08 Old DD Stolen...by Matt. Cool
Whine..eee...Silver LS6
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toomanytoyz
Club President


Posts : 6870
Join date : 2009-01-20
Age : 40
Location : East Hampstead, NH USA

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Mon Oct 12, 2009 7:04 am

Check the grounds in the trunk, too. I hear those things are responsible for all kinds of funky electrical issues

I'd also swap in a known good alternator. Overcharging would be a faulty voltage regulator, and that is in the alternator. So I'd say, bad alternator. Someone near you must have a spare you can try. I have a half dozen or so, but you're so far away!

_________________
Bill "The Verb" Crovo - Resident Car Slut & Unicorn Hunter

A Toasted Marshmallow, A Long German, A Lame Suburban and expensive dreams...
Missing all my previous B's, D's and V... Sad
American Ricer
www.badassofne.net
"Ooooh! Look! Something shiny!"
NO MORE UNICORNS!!!!!

LOWER IT!!! Wink
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bammax



Posts : 2301
Join date : 2009-02-22
Age : 35
Location : Mansfield, Ma

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Mon Oct 12, 2009 2:10 pm

I'm on my second alternator. I've had it tested in the car and out about 3 times now because it makes sense that the voltage regulator is bad. Every time it's tested they say that it's fine. Same with the battery.

I don't have a known good one to test, plus my car doesn't take the 140's that you LT guys run so I'd need to find a known good one from an L99 which is tricky to do.

Where are all the grounds in the trunk anyway? I know I'm going to pull out the trunk light so I'll clean the grounds while I'm there if someone can show me where they are.
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sdstick



Posts : 4278
Join date : 2009-03-20
Location : Revere, MA

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Mon Oct 12, 2009 4:56 pm

When you open your trunk, the supports on both left & right have grounds
The left is 2 small gauge 18AWG? the right is heavier 14GA thats all I know about
Never tore the whole trunk apart so there could be more

_________________
Steve


96BBB 28K 3.42 Bolt-ons
95BBB 100K 3.73 383 New DD...already broke fixt the 4L60E twice
95 Black WB4 Hole...ee...grail
96 Black WB4 No holes in this
95BBB 189K 3.08 Old DD Stolen...by Matt. Cool
Whine..eee...Silver LS6
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bammax



Posts : 2301
Join date : 2009-02-22
Age : 35
Location : Mansfield, Ma

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Mon Oct 12, 2009 10:59 pm

I cleaned and retightened the grounds at the coil. I also eliminated the headlight harness as a culprit.

The voltage at the battery was 12.3 with the engine off and 14.7 with the engine running. So the guage is reading high initially. I need to drive it further to see how low the voltage eventually drops so I'll get that info up as soon as I get it. It's making me think maybe the short is in the dash since my guages are not reading accuritely and the drain is more evident with certain things turned on.

I found one of thegrounds in the trunk hinge on the driverside, but it looked solid so I left it alone. I haven't spotted the other yet but I didn't see the post sdstick left until after I came back inside for the night.

If someone has an fsm for '95 and could photocopy the electrical pages or just let me take a quick peak on Saturday it would help a ton. I can't afford $150 to buy the manual.
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toomanytoyz
Club President


Posts : 6870
Join date : 2009-01-20
Age : 40
Location : East Hampstead, NH USA

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Tue Oct 13, 2009 8:03 pm

I'll try to remember to bring the FSM's up for you to peek at. There are hundreds of pages of electrical diagrams! Smile

_________________
Bill "The Verb" Crovo - Resident Car Slut & Unicorn Hunter

A Toasted Marshmallow, A Long German, A Lame Suburban and expensive dreams...
Missing all my previous B's, D's and V... Sad
American Ricer
www.badassofne.net
"Ooooh! Look! Something shiny!"
NO MORE UNICORNS!!!!!

LOWER IT!!! Wink
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http://impalass.uniquekind.net/
bammax



Posts : 2301
Join date : 2009-02-22
Age : 35
Location : Mansfield, Ma

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Tue Oct 13, 2009 11:10 pm

Tomorrow I'm going to pull out the trunk light which never worked anyway.Then I'm going to check the door pins since I had trouble with the one in the drivers door a long time ago and the dome light has been flickering lately. Then I'm going to add another ground to the frame but I'm not sure if it should be from the body or the engine. I'm probably going to run it body to frame just to avoid removing any rusty bolts from the engine. I can already see a problem coming when I try to pull bolts out of the engine.

As far as wiring diagrams go I just need to find any grounds that I haven't already checked, such as grounds to the frame, and grounds for the cluster.
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mean ss



Posts : 648
Join date : 2009-02-25
Age : 58
Location : Nashua NH.

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Wed Oct 14, 2009 9:08 am

pull body fuse # 1 in the under hood fuse box. I have a 5 amp draw on mine if I leave the fuse in it won't start the next day
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bammax



Posts : 2301
Join date : 2009-02-22
Age : 35
Location : Mansfield, Ma

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Thu Oct 15, 2009 1:57 pm

I cleaned the grounds in the trunk yesterday and also removed the trunk light. So far the volts still drop when I put on the climate controls or any other drain but they jump right back up after a second or 2. This is a deffinite improvement. I still don't know how close to a solution I'm at since I haven't driven the car alot in the last couple days, but I'm on the right track.

I did notice while under the hood that I'm getting a supercharger type whine from the engine at idle. It's making me think one of the pulleys is sticking or something, but I can't figure out which one. None of them seam loose and the belt and everything is lined up perfectly so It's tricky to find the offending pulley. I imagine it could be the belt slipping or the tensioner going bad, but I don't know how to check for those. If someone wants to take a peak for me on Saturday I'd appreciate it.
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Fishah



Posts : 1118
Join date : 2009-01-20
Age : 29
Location : Chicago, IL

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Thu Oct 15, 2009 2:29 pm

Get a long extension, stick it to each accessory and use it as a stethoscope to find a bad bearing.

Or pull the belt and spin each pulley. You'll notice resistance or a funny noise from the offending pulley.
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bammax



Posts : 2301
Join date : 2009-02-22
Age : 35
Location : Mansfield, Ma

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Thu Oct 15, 2009 11:01 pm

Well after 40 miles in the dark and rain tonight I have some good news. The volts are holding steady even with the high drain devices on, which means I solved the major problem. I do still have a few bugs in the system though.

The guages still aren't reading correctly and there was a crackling noise from them when I first started the car tonight. The second problem was that the blinker was causing the volts to dip quite a bit everytime they flashed. I'm going to need to find and clean the ground for the guages and then double check the ground for the cornering lights that I wired in.

I'll check the pulleys once it stops raining, but I think I'll be looking for a new tensioner and belt soon since the belt didn't feel as tight as I like it.
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JaySS



Posts : 88
Join date : 2009-05-18

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Fri Oct 16, 2009 11:10 am

Have you verified that the ground strap that runs from the rear of the left cylinder head to the firewall is good yet?

- J
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bammax



Posts : 2301
Join date : 2009-02-22
Age : 35
Location : Mansfield, Ma

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Fri Oct 16, 2009 11:46 am

I didn't unbolt it and clean it down yet. The way the bolts screw into the sheet metal makes them tricky for reusing. I've had a couple so far that have basically stripped out the hole and needed to have nuts put on the backside. I'm nervous about undoing the firewall ground strap for that very reason. The strap itself is solid but is starting to show some rust where it dips down between the engine and firewall.
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JaySS



Posts : 88
Join date : 2009-05-18

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Fri Oct 16, 2009 2:18 pm

Not a good reason.

Use a bigger screw or drill a new hole if necessary.

In all of your troubleshooting you don't mention verifying the body to block ground is good.

The system depends on that strap as the battery ground goes to the engine and not the frame.

A loss of it can cause the problems - flucuating gauges, overcharging - you are seeing.

Engines may run on gasoline, but cars run on electricity.

- J
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Matt Trakker



Posts : 5075
Join date : 2009-07-30
Age : 35
Location : Reading, MA

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Fri Oct 16, 2009 3:42 pm

Definitely check the engine block ground straps...I've seen them cause major problems. On my truck when I first got it, the straps were corroded in two! I don't know how the truck was running as well as it did. I replaced them both and added a second from the engine to the body. I also have a ground strap that goes from my alternator body onto the engine block to help ground it out a little better, on my truck the alternator is grounded by being bolted to it's bracket, but that connection is only as good as the bracket is clean. I don't know where it's counterpart may be on your engine, but I had a ground for the ECM that attached to a bolt on my water neck, I cleaned that up and put it back together as well.

My volts also dip slightly when I have my blinkers on, but very little.
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bammax



Posts : 2301
Join date : 2009-02-22
Age : 35
Location : Mansfield, Ma

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Fri Oct 16, 2009 4:18 pm

Your bustin my balls here Jay Laughing. I promise I'll check it out tomorrow after I get back from bringing you your stuff up in NH Very Happy

I did buy a second ground strap to add to the system. Should it go from engine to frame or should it go body to frame? I have yet to see on my car any ground going to the frame like the 9c1's have.

Matt, on the genII the alternator has it's ground in the wiring harness plug. The battery grounds to the engine at the alternator bracket like you describe. The main reason for grounding the alternator this way is, I believe, because the alternator bracket is aluminum although there may be another reason that I'm not aware of.
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Matt Trakker



Posts : 5075
Join date : 2009-07-30
Age : 35
Location : Reading, MA

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Fri Oct 16, 2009 7:09 pm

bammax wrote:
Your bustin my balls here Jay Laughing. I promise I'll check it out tomorrow after I get back from bringing you your stuff up in NH Very Happy

I did buy a second ground strap to add to the system. Should it go from engine to frame or should it go body to frame? I have yet to see on my car any ground going to the frame like the 9c1's have.

Matt, on the genII the alternator has it's ground in the wiring harness plug. The battery grounds to the engine at the alternator bracket like you describe. The main reason for grounding the alternator this way is, I believe, because the alternator bracket is aluminum although there may be another reason that I'm not aware of.

Interestingggggg

On my 93 TBI truck, I have a stud on the firewall that the grounds loop onto and you bolt them down on. I believe it's actually made of copper, but has been painted the color of the truck at the factory. I have one going from the frame to the stud on the firewall, and then another going from the stud on the firewall to the back of the passenger side cylinder head, there was a tapped hole there that I used (it was probably there for that reason), I also added another from the engine to the stud for the heck of it.
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bammax



Posts : 2301
Join date : 2009-02-22
Age : 35
Location : Mansfield, Ma

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Fri Oct 23, 2009 1:40 pm

Update

I cleaned up the ground from the head to the firewall best I could. I can't get to bare metal on the firewall without grinding the threads off the ground stud. And I didn't manage to get the bolt out of the back of the head since I didn't have enough leverage to break it loose. I'm going to hit it with some pb blaster over the next couple days to loosen it up a bit and then try again. At the same time I'll try to find a good way to clean the firewall connection without screwing up the stud.

I now know for a fact the wiring for the guages is screwy. The volts are reading way different on the guage (6ish off and 16-17 at idle) than they are when I put a volt meter on the battery (12.3 off and 14.7 at idle). The oil guage is now saying my pressure is so high that it's a bit out of the grid until the car warms up and the reading drops down to the middle of the guage. That's with the 9c1 sender and a fresh oil and filter change. The temp guage spikes at startup and then stays off the rest of the time. I already replaced the sending unit which fixed the problem for a couple months until I hit a bump and it never worked again. I've tried playing with the connector and it didn't help. The only guage that works acuritely is the fuel guage which shows just how trustworthy my cluster is right now.

If Crovo or someone with an fsm for '95 could tell me exactly where the guage cluster ground is I'd appreciate it. After I clean the ground at the head I'm going to be completely out of places to look without opening up the dash.

And just so people don't think I'm a negative nelly, since I cleaned up the other grounds the electrical system seems to be much stronger and I'm not losing volts with my accessories on cheers
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boojum



Posts : 2152
Join date : 2009-01-21
Age : 29
Location : NH

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Fri Oct 23, 2009 4:04 pm

There's a bunch of grounds for the IP. Look under "Wiring Diagrams" at http://ss.lencolab.com/.
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bammax



Posts : 2301
Join date : 2009-02-22
Age : 35
Location : Mansfield, Ma

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Mon Nov 02, 2009 8:25 am

Ok so I spent a fair bit of time fudging with the ground strap at the firewall. The bolt holding it to the engine will not budge. I tried everything from pb blaster to hammering on the wrench while I applied torque and nothing happened. I can't get a socket on it with the breaker bar because it's tucked too far under the cowl. I'm pretty much sure that the ground is in rough shape just by the fact that the bolt is corroded to the block and metal is flaking off the engine all around the bolt.

I'm going to try to find another place to run a ground strap because I can't keep fighting with the current one and there's nobody down here that can help me with it. I'm hoping the new strap I have is long enough to reach from the stud on the side of the block where the a/c compressor mounted all the way to the inner fender. I have a feeling the strap won't be long enough, but I'm going to give it a try. Otherwise I'll need to find another spot on the engine to bolt it to. In a perfect world the new strap will reach fine and will compensate for the old corroded one. I doubt it though.
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sdstick



Posts : 4278
Join date : 2009-03-20
Location : Revere, MA

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Mon Nov 02, 2009 9:13 am

bammax wrote:
.....I'm hoping the new strap I have is long enough to reach from the stud on the side of the block where the a/c compressor mounted all the way to the inner fender. I have a feeling the strap won't be long enough, but I'm going to give it a try. Otherwise I'll need to find another spot on the engine to bolt it to. In a perfect world the new strap will reach fine and will compensate for the old corroded one. I doubt it though.
If it doesnt fit tell me what size cable, what length & what size lug you need on each end & I'll make you up something that will work for you.
you can eamail me if you want... sdstick@msn.com

_________________
Steve


96BBB 28K 3.42 Bolt-ons
95BBB 100K 3.73 383 New DD...already broke fixt the 4L60E twice
95 Black WB4 Hole...ee...grail
96 Black WB4 No holes in this
95BBB 189K 3.08 Old DD Stolen...by Matt. Cool
Whine..eee...Silver LS6
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bammax



Posts : 2301
Join date : 2009-02-22
Age : 35
Location : Mansfield, Ma

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Wed Nov 04, 2009 9:49 am

Thanks for the offer. The strap I have did manage to fit. I ran it from the stud on the block to the frame where the battery cable tiedown is. As soon as I did that my hood light got alot brighter sunny

I'm going to pick up another strap and run it from the same stud across to the inner fender. That way I'll have a common ground point on the engine running to the body and the frame. Hopefully it'll be worth while.

On an interesting side note, after pulling my a/c and retightening my ignition wire on the starter my temp guage started working again for the first time in 2 years. It flicked off for 3 seconds at a light while I was on my test drive but it came right back. So now I have a couple guages that are working correctly. I also tried unthreading the oil pressure sensor slightly to try and get rid of the false high reading and it seemed to have worked a little, but it's too early to tell. If it looks like it's reading a bit lower on the guage I'll try loosening it another quarter turn and see where it stands at that point.

I'm finally making some real progress cheers
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sdstick



Posts : 4278
Join date : 2009-03-20
Location : Revere, MA

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Wed Nov 04, 2009 10:50 am

bammax wrote:
On an interesting side note, after pulling my a/c and retightening my ignition wire on the starter my temp guage started working again for the first time in 2 years. It flicked off for 3 seconds at a light while I was on my test drive but it came right back. So now I have a couple guages that are working correctly. :

That sounds like more then a side note, that sounds like a problem area identified Idea

bammax wrote:
I also tried unthreading the oil pressure sensor slightly to try and get rid of the false high reading and it seemed to have worked a little, but it's too early to tell. If it looks like it's reading a bit lower on the guage I'll try loosening it another quarter turn and see where it stands at that point.

Did your car have the resistor in the glovebox?
I know the resistor had to be re-ranged with the 9C1 sender to correct gauge
I wont ask you to explain why you think loosening the sender is a good idea,
cause,
there's no way I'm gonna like your answer anyway Razz

bammax wrote:
I'm finally making some real progress cheers

Congrats, progress is good

_________________
Steve


96BBB 28K 3.42 Bolt-ons
95BBB 100K 3.73 383 New DD...already broke fixt the 4L60E twice
95 Black WB4 Hole...ee...grail
96 Black WB4 No holes in this
95BBB 189K 3.08 Old DD Stolen...by Matt. Cool
Whine..eee...Silver LS6
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bammax



Posts : 2301
Join date : 2009-02-22
Age : 35
Location : Mansfield, Ma

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Wed Nov 04, 2009 1:28 pm

I cut out the resistor in the dash when I installed the guage. I didn't realize that the sending unit wasn't supposed to be torqued down and I over tightened it to the point it jumped threads. Then I figured I'd just snug it down and leave it alone, but it was reading a fair bit high. So I realized I might be getting a false high reading by having the sending unit screwed in too far. Basically if the unit is screwed in too far it makes narrows the passage in the elbow fitting and narrowing a hole increases the pressure. That's why I'm backing the sender out until it is at the same depth the stock one was at.

And the temp guage stopped working because the wire for it is broken somewhere in it's length under the engine. Sometimes I could wiggle the wire and get the guage to work for a second, but once it died completely I figured It would never work again until I replaced the wire. I'm guessing that when I was wrenching on the ignition wire I must have shifted the temp wire enough to give it a clear signal again. I'm not expecting it to last very long, but I'm enjoying it while it lasts.
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sdstick



Posts : 4278
Join date : 2009-03-20
Location : Revere, MA

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Wed Nov 04, 2009 2:56 pm

bammax wrote:
I cut out the resistor in the dash when I installed the guage.
bammax wrote:
The oil guage is now saying my pressure is so high that it's a bit out of the grid until the car warms up and the reading drops down to the middle of the guage. That's with the 9c1 sender and a fresh oil and filter change.

Without a resistor your gauge reads what it reads. You need to add a resistor to bring the gauge into the "happy" area on the gauge "happy" meaning where you like to see it, maybe 1/2 scale when warm & stopped at a light. I have a writeup somewhere if you decide to persue that.

bammax wrote:
Basically if the unit is screwed in too far it makes narrows the passage in the elbow fitting and narrowing a hole increases the pressure. That's why I'm backing the sender out until it is at the same depth the stock one was at..

I wont argue here as you know what you have & my sender is at home in a box

Now lets talk about that crackling sound from the gauges lol!

_________________
Steve


96BBB 28K 3.42 Bolt-ons
95BBB 100K 3.73 383 New DD...already broke fixt the 4L60E twice
95 Black WB4 Hole...ee...grail
96 Black WB4 No holes in this
95BBB 189K 3.08 Old DD Stolen...by Matt. Cool
Whine..eee...Silver LS6
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bammax



Posts : 2301
Join date : 2009-02-22
Age : 35
Location : Mansfield, Ma

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Thu Nov 05, 2009 9:27 pm

You guys are free to come by and play with it if you want. Hopefully it'll have most of the bugs worked out soon though.
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druzdcm



Posts : 166
Join date : 2009-02-24
Age : 38

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Fri Nov 06, 2009 1:03 pm

Isn't the cluster ground one of the ones in the driver's kick panel behinf the hood lever?
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http://druzcherrybomb.shutterfly.com
bammax



Posts : 2301
Join date : 2009-02-22
Age : 35
Location : Mansfield, Ma

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Fri Nov 06, 2009 1:40 pm

It's possible. I don't have an fsm so I only find grounds that people point out or that I can actually find.
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sdstick



Posts : 4278
Join date : 2009-03-20
Location : Revere, MA

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Fri Nov 06, 2009 2:52 pm

boojum wrote:
There's a bunch of grounds for the IP. Look under "Wiring Diagrams" at http://ss.lencolab.com/.

Did you look at this? It's perfect 4 u
Labels the grounds, whats on that circuit & where it lives

_________________
Steve


96BBB 28K 3.42 Bolt-ons
95BBB 100K 3.73 383 New DD...already broke fixt the 4L60E twice
95 Black WB4 Hole...ee...grail
96 Black WB4 No holes in this
95BBB 189K 3.08 Old DD Stolen...by Matt. Cool
Whine..eee...Silver LS6
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bammax



Posts : 2301
Join date : 2009-02-22
Age : 35
Location : Mansfield, Ma

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Fri Nov 06, 2009 5:08 pm

I've already copied alot of his diagrams to my hard drive. He's got a great website going.

The problem I run into is that the driverside kick panel has about 400 wires running in 20 different directions. And to top it off there are a few colors that are used for more than one thing. And then just to make me more confused the '94 diagram doesn't match the color coding for my '95 as nicely as it could.

I'll find it next time I go out to play with the car. I'm going to be down in that area anyway when I run the cruise control wiring through the firewall. My main objective right now is just to add the second ground strap off the a/c stud.
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bammax



Posts : 2301
Join date : 2009-02-22
Age : 35
Location : Mansfield, Ma

PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Tue Nov 24, 2009 2:11 pm

Update

I decided to go play with live wires in the rain today Twisted Evil In the end I made 3 discoveries.

I found 3 grounds in the kick panel. 1 was the airbag ground which was by itself and I left it alone. Then there were 2 sharing a common bolt. I cleaned that spot up a bit and made sure they were nice and tight against bare metal. It didn't change anything though Mad

Turns out the power seats I just pulled out were not original equipment. Someone tapped into the relay for the power seat in the fuse block and ran it to the seat rail and then ran the ground to the common ground at the kick panel. Other than using crappy crimp connectors and not color coding the wires they did a decent job of it. It's all now pulled out and in my trunk Laughing I'm guessing they used the power rails from another caprice and just mounted them to the manual seat. The reverse of what I did.

The last discovery was that the floors aren't rotten yet. I was worried because there's a soft spot in the carpet which has rust stains showing. Turns out the floor does have some surface rust showing but it's still nice and sturdy. The soft spot must just be from the foot placement wearing through the padding Smile

Overall not a great day progress wise, but at least I'm further ahead then I was yesterday. Hopefully I can get some decent weather so I can pull some more wiring before winter hits. My fingers don't work in the cold weather No
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PostSubject: Re: Electrical issues   Today at 7:22 pm

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