BADASS of New England

An automobile club for the enthusiast who enjoys the last of the big GM cars. The rear wheel drive B and D bodys. Chevrolet Impala SS, Caprice, 9C1, Buick Roadmaster, Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser, Cadillac Fleetwood
 
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 Cooling Fans

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LandMaster



Posts : 258
Join date : 2009-09-03
Age : 26
Location : Waterford, New York

PostSubject: Cooling Fans   Mon Sep 07, 2009 5:03 pm

Has anybody every heard of some one making a by pass switch to turn on both electric fans before the coolant temp getting too high? I ran at an auto cross yesterday and keeping the engine cool was deffinitly an issuse, untill both fans kicked in, so I was wondering if a switch could be made to manually kick in the fans ahead of time
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bammax



Posts : 2301
Join date : 2009-02-22
Age : 35
Location : Mansfield, Ma

PostSubject: Re: Cooling Fans   Mon Sep 07, 2009 6:00 pm

Just tap a hot wire and run it through the switch and then down to the fans. It's harder than I make it out to be but that's the basic principal.
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LandMaster



Posts : 258
Join date : 2009-09-03
Age : 26
Location : Waterford, New York

PostSubject: Re: Cooling Fans   Mon Sep 07, 2009 8:32 pm

I see, any clue as to whihc wire in the fan assembly would work for that? also If I delete the AIR pump will I still be able to pass emissions?
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bammax



Posts : 2301
Join date : 2009-02-22
Age : 35
Location : Mansfield, Ma

PostSubject: Re: Cooling Fans   Mon Sep 07, 2009 9:29 pm

If you have a '95 you can disable it if you put the tsb sticker on the shroud. For a '96 you may get a cel which would be an issue during an inspection. As far as removing everything it's up to the inspector as to whether that's acceptible or not.
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Tomz9C1



Posts : 1486
Join date : 2009-01-21
Age : 54
Location : Rumford, Maine

PostSubject: Re: Cooling Fans   Tue Sep 08, 2009 9:40 pm

You guys have inspections? That sucks!
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LandMaster



Posts : 258
Join date : 2009-09-03
Age : 26
Location : Waterford, New York

PostSubject: Re: Cooling Fans   Wed Sep 09, 2009 8:18 am

I did a little poking around if I unplug the MAF sensor both fans kick on, but isn't that bad for the motor to leave that unplugged? Also I was told since I have a 94 the cel can be on and still pass inspection, and I'm good for another year any ways.
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bammax



Posts : 2301
Join date : 2009-02-22
Age : 35
Location : Mansfield, Ma

PostSubject: Re: Cooling Fans   Wed Sep 09, 2009 10:17 am

Don't leave any sensors unplugged. These cars run way too hot normally and racing them will just make it worse. Other than a manual over-ride switch on the fans you could drop in a 160 thermostat, bypass the throttle body cooling, and put larger coolers on the trans and oil. I haven't found the method for adding the over-ride switch since that info was lost when the big site crashed. I'm sure it's still out there I just haven't found it.

How has your power steering held up during racing? Many find the system overheats and actually boils the fluid during autocross.
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bammax



Posts : 2301
Join date : 2009-02-22
Age : 35
Location : Mansfield, Ma

PostSubject: Re: Cooling Fans   Wed Sep 09, 2009 10:20 am

Scratch that last comment about not finding anything. I forgot I saved the page beforehand.
SS Techbook
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LandMaster



Posts : 258
Join date : 2009-09-03
Age : 26
Location : Waterford, New York

PostSubject: Re: Cooling Fans   Wed Sep 09, 2009 9:39 pm

Yea I heard Bill C. talking about that, but I havent had that happen, usually my car runs pretty cool at the autocross cuz I get let it cool between runs, but last time I shared the car and the car was staying on the warm side, luckily my power steering was alright it didn't boil or anything ( i checked everything between every run) but when it got too a certain point both fans would kick in and would cool down very quickly.
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FUN-9C1



Posts : 145
Join date : 2009-05-09
Location : lakes region, NH

PostSubject: Re: Cooling Fans   Thu Jan 07, 2010 1:35 pm

Hi guys, been a while! I know this is a kinda old thread, but I thought I could help on this one. Back a million years ago when I first bought my 9c1, I did the cooling fan mod that a guy named Scott Meuller wrote up. I copied and pasted the instructions into a word file in case that website ever went away and I ever needed them again and damned if I don't still have it. I will try to paste it into here- we'll see how it goes. I still have this mod in the 9c1. I did the extra relays to keep the CEL off. I THINK I followed the instructions to a T, but the middle position on the switch where it's supposed be automatic is actually "off". Not sure if I screwed up or if there was a flaw in the instructions. Probably I screwed up. So far in the 8 or 9 years I've had this mod, I haven't forgotten to turn them on if I need them, knock on wood. It is nice to have at the track. Here's the instructions:


Manually Controlled Engine Cooling Fans
Advantages
You can cool the engine and coolant down when the car is idle, before the car gets up to the activation temp, and before the engine decides to leave them on for a while. The switch does not interfere with the normal operation of the cooling fans, it allows you to activate the fans when they would normally be idle.
Disadvantages
The only disadvantage I have discovered is that the PCM sends a signal to the relays every 5 seconds or so and notices when you have ground them (when the fans are on). This causes the check engine light to come on, but only as a warning that the fan relays are not working properly. There is no additional impact to the PCM. You can get around this by adding a few more relays, however.
Parts Required:
• Some wire and soldering equipment
• Wire stripping tools
• A three position switch (double pole, double throw (DPDT))
• Two 12V 20/30A automotive relays (optional)
• Two relay harnesses (optional)
Procedure (from Troy Clark) and Stephan Yelenik) :
1. The Primary and Secondary fan relays are in the fuse box located in the rear passenger side of the engine compartment, next to the remote positive battery terminal. The cover opens on the box and the tray in which the fuses and relays are mounted lifts out by releasing the clips on the inside edges of the box. Do not short out any wires or terminals. You may want to disconnect the battery, but be sure to record you radio code if activated. Disconnecting the battery also clears the PCM's "learn idle", which may result in a rougher than normal idle for a while after. Drape the area with a towel to insulate the "ground" and remove the two 10mm screws to remove the box the fuse block sits in: this allows more room to find, cut, strip and solder.
2. The relays are the two large square olive green cubes. There are four wires entering each relay.
• Primary Relay:
• Brown = 12v Ignition
• Red = 12v Battery
• Black = Fan
• Dark Blue = PCM (and switch to be installed)
• Secondary Relay:
• Brown = 12v Ignition
• Red = 12v Battery
• Light Blue = Fan
• Green = PCM (and switch to be installed)
3. A relay is an automatically controlled switch. The purpose here is to separate the switch portion of the factory relay so that a separate and additional relay can be used. These second relays in their normal position will leave the factory wiring as is and when a manually controlled switch in the car is thrown by the driver, the PCM wire is separated from the factory relay and therefore the fan is grounded, independent of the PCM.
4. Locate the dark blue an green wires, identifying as going from the factory relays to the PCM. Also locate and identify the brown wires going to the factory relays. These brown wires will be required as 12V Ignition for the two relays being added.
5. If you choose not do the relays, you don't need to cut and strip. Just jumper onto the blue and green wires.
6. Cut the dark blue and green wires , keeping track of which side of each wire is the relay side and the PCM side.
7. Remove a small section of insulation from the brown wires (be sure the ignition key is off) and solder on jumpers wires.
8. Mount the two relays convenient to the factory fan relays. Connect one of the jumper wires from the factory brown wire to new fan relay "one" terminal 85. Connect the other jumper wire from the factory brown wire to new fan relay "two" terminal 85. Connect separate wires to both terminals 86 on the new relays (long enough to run per section 8 below as these will go through the firewall and to the installed switch). Jumper a wire from the factory relay side of dark blue wire to terminal 30 on the new relay "one". Jumper a wire from the factory relay side of green wire to terminal 30 on the new relay "two". Jumper wire from the PCM side of the dark blue wire to terminal 87a on new relay "one". Jumper a wire from the PCM side of the dark green wire to terminal 87a on new relay "two". Connect terminal 87 on both new relays to a suitable ground point on the chassis.
9. Route these wires across the fire wall and enter the car through the rubber grommet near the parking brake. You can mount your switch any place. For instance, you can remove the center console and run the wire under the short piece of carpet and into the console. The switch will mounted on the side of the center console.
10. Use a 3 position switch. Up for Primary fan = wire to ground (a bolt under the center console to the frame) and the jumper to the Dark Blue wire. Down for Secondary Fan + Primary Fan = Ground and Jumper for both Green and Dark Blue wires. The middle position is off.
Back of switch: (switch has six terminals)
___________GND----o---o <---- "primary only" position

__primary (blue) ----o o----secondary (green) <---- "jumper" wires

___________GND----o o--NC <---- "both fans" position

This keeps the two relay wires isolated. Also note the grounds go to the end terminals of the switch, and the fan relay wires go to the center. "NC" means No Connection. The switch grounds BOTH wires in one position, only the primary wire in the other position, and neither wire in the center-off position, which is exactly what you want.
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PostSubject: Re: Cooling Fans   Today at 10:01 pm

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