BADASS of New England

An automobile club for the enthusiast who enjoys the last of the big GM cars. The rear wheel drive B and D bodys. Chevrolet Impala SS, Caprice, 9C1, Buick Roadmaster, Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser, Cadillac Fleetwood
 
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 Next question regarding my dimmer switch issue

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MASShole9C1

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PostSubject: Next question regarding my dimmer switch issue   Thu Jul 11, 2013 2:10 am

Since the connector tabs from the harness to the dimmer switch are melted away, the connector popped out of the new switch when I left work tonight.

When I reached down to plug it back in, my fingers were INSTANTLY burned. This is less than 5 minutes of having the headlights (low beams) on.

When I got home, I noticed that:
1) the connector is waaaay to hot to touch
2) there's at least 1 semi exposed wire at the connector
3) insulation is blackened at the connector
4) following the harness from the connector/dimmer, up into the conduit where it joins the main harness, the wires are HOT!!!

Headlights work fine tho. No issues at all. Hi/lo operates normal.

What could be causing this condition?

I'm going to look into some key on, lights off/on tests tm as well as double check proper amp fuses.

Everything in the actual headlight harness is stock except the addition of the other 2 note horns.

I'm sure that this is what led up to the demise of the original switch.

Previously I had 6000k HIDs (last summer) but now have 9004 silverstars, and I had the smaller corner parking lamps swapped out to larger 1157s. Those are now back to stock.

Any ideas or suggestions?
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95brmw

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Location : Connecticut

PostSubject: Re: Next question regarding my dimmer switch issue   Thu Jul 11, 2013 7:54 am

I bet there's a lot of carbon on the contacts from it burning up the first time causing a ton of resistance. Your best bet is to cut a connector out of a junkyard car and splice it in. Rockauto appears to sell every one of those connectors except the one you need.
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MASShole9C1

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PostSubject: Re: Next question regarding my dimmer switch issue   Thu Jul 11, 2013 9:10 am

One step ahead of you Dave. I already ordered a new connector and pigtail from advance. $29. Id rather have new over used as far as this is concerned. Gotta be replaced anyway.

Any idea where to get the proper blade terminals so I can repin the connector? I don't want to reuse the terminals and I'd like to cut away the exposed and burned portion.

I'm on board with the resistance from being melted.

What makes you think it won't melt again? Wondering, could the dimmer cause it to melt? And now I have a separate heat/resistance issue due to the melted junk?
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sdstick

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PostSubject: Re: Next question regarding my dimmer switch issue   Thu Jul 11, 2013 10:38 am

In my experience, when it gets to the melting point, you have a short

I hate to say it cuz it could be a bitch but I'd buzz out those wires

Unhook the battery & check continuity and resistance of each wire to ground & to other wires in that connector....you'll find the problem

If you do it using the terminals 1st (before you cut off the connector), you might prove your short is right there....saves time

DONT screw with that....it has flambe written ALL OVER IT

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Steve


96BBB 28K 3.42 Bolt-ons
95BBB 100K 3.73 383 New DD...already broke fixt the 4L60E twice
95 Black WB4 Hole...ee...grail
96 Black WB4 No holes in this
95BBB 189K 3.08 Old DD Stolen...by Matt. Cool
Whine..eee...Silver LS6
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MASShole9C1

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PostSubject: Re: Next question regarding my dimmer switch issue   Thu Jul 11, 2013 11:51 am

I'm no electrical genius, what are the specs?
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MASShole9C1

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PostSubject: Re: Next question regarding my dimmer switch issue   Thu Jul 11, 2013 12:19 pm

I know, I know. "Don't throw parts at it".

I just ordered Gary's innovative headlight harness to help alleviate some of the stress put on the almost 20 year old, shabby stock wiring.

I figure I'll order the battery cables next.
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sdstick

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PostSubject: Re: Next question regarding my dimmer switch issue   Thu Jul 11, 2013 2:17 pm

MASShole9C1 wrote:
I'm no electrical genius, what are the specs?

No specs...really
Set your meter on resistance (usually a little picture of a chime) so when you touch the leads together the meter beeps
All your doing is checking that each wire is un compromised from 1 end to the other

Touch 1 end with 1 lead & the other with the 2nd lead....BEEP = 1 complete wire (not broken )

For example, if the insulation wore off from rubbing against a metal edge, when you touch 1 end with 1 lead & ground with the 2nd lead...BEEP = wire shorted to ground (no good unless its a ground wire)

Also you go from wire to wire to make sure they havent melted together

You'll still want to do this to the harness you dont replace

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Steve


96BBB 28K 3.42 Bolt-ons
95BBB 100K 3.73 383 New DD...already broke fixt the 4L60E twice
95 Black WB4 Hole...ee...grail
96 Black WB4 No holes in this
95BBB 189K 3.08 Old DD Stolen...by Matt. Cool
Whine..eee...Silver LS6
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MASShole9C1

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PostSubject: Re: Next question regarding my dimmer switch issue   Thu Jul 11, 2013 2:22 pm

Sounds good. Thanks Steve!
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