BADASS of New England

An automobile club for the enthusiast who enjoys the last of the big GM cars. The rear wheel drive B and D bodys. Chevrolet Impala SS, Caprice, 9C1, Buick Roadmaster, Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser, Cadillac Fleetwood
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 Always look.

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No Moa

Posts : 3870
Join date : 2009-02-21
Age : 44
Location : Midcoast Maine

PostSubject: Always look.    Wed Dec 28, 2011 4:50 pm

Made a deal with a club member (he isnt now and hasn't been) years and years ago, got a civi roller, with a good posi, rolled the car on its side tonight, torch, saws all, tool ready to remove, and it's a fuking one spinner. I took the bad side of this deal to begin with, try to help someone out, get fuked again. So much for swapping out a good rearend into the SS.

Moral is, always check the pile o shit before you load it on the trailer, never take a mainah's word for anything. FUK.

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Posts : 4278
Join date : 2009-03-20
Location : Revere, MA

PostSubject: Re: Always look.    Wed Dec 28, 2011 4:58 pm

Cant you just get a used posi somewhere?
Or is it setting it up thats a problem?


96BBB 28K 3.42 Bolt-ons
95BBB 100K 3.73 383 New DD...already broke fixt the 4L60E twice
95 Black WB4
96 Black WB4 No holes in this
95BBB 189K 3.08 Old DD Matt. Cool
Whine..eee...Silver LS6
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Posts : 4475
Join date : 2010-03-14
Age : 29
Location : Chicopee, MA

PostSubject: Re: Always look.    Wed Dec 28, 2011 5:05 pm

sdstick wrote:
Cant you just get a used posi somewhere?
Or is it setting it up thats a problem?

If its a civi pegleg 2:56 the carrier is too small for a posi.
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No Moa

Posts : 3870
Join date : 2009-02-21
Age : 44
Location : Midcoast Maine

PostSubject: Re: Always look.    Wed Dec 28, 2011 5:30 pm

Setting it up is the issue, I got a 9c1 posi, maybe I'll just use that pos.
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Posts : 512
Join date : 2010-11-16
Age : 59
Location : Wrentham

PostSubject: Re: Always look.    Thu Dec 29, 2011 9:21 am

I'd MUCH rather install the L/S (limited/slip) differential, in your situation, than swap out a set of ignition wires on an LT1.

You will benefit from having/borrowing/buying a magnetic base "plunger type" dial indicator, but otherwise, no special tools are required.

Pull cover, slide out both axles, check gears for wear pattern, and if good: measure backlash (will likely be around .008"), then re-use the same gears.

Swap ring-gear & bearings if good onto the new 9C1 diff., install the unit with proper side to side bearing pre-load (about .020" total) & duplicate old R&P gear back-lash setting.

You can optionally re-check your gear pattern with white or yellow gear marking compound.

You will probably need to play "musical side-shims" to achieve the correct side pre-load value and B/L settings.

My trick:
Include a .010" shim in both left & right shim-packs, so that you're able to slip the ham in and out easily (@ "zero" pre-load) until B/L is spot on, then add .010" back in on both sides, to achieve good side-bearing pre-load.

Slide back in the axles, cross-pin & horse shoe "C"clips, cover w/gasket, and re-fill housing with lube & L/S friction modifier, basically thats it.

Because you are re-using the same gears back in the same housing, its WAY simpler than a full-on R&P gear & L/S change over.

I would also install a new pinion seal in there, just on general principles, for insurance. While the "ham" is out, you can turn-feel the pinion bearings and pre-load there as well.

Go for it, its a lot easier than it sounds.
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