BADASS of New England
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BADASS of New England

An automobile club for the enthusiast who enjoys the last of the big GM cars. The rear wheel drive B and D bodys. Chevrolet Impala SS, Caprice, 9C1, Buick Roadmaster, Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser, Cadillac Fleetwood
 
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Eliminating binding when using poly bushing UCA's EmptyWed Oct 19, 2022 1:27 pm by scot

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 Eliminating binding when using poly bushing UCA's

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scot




Posts : 62
Join date : 2011-07-17

Eliminating binding when using poly bushing UCA's Empty
PostSubject: Eliminating binding when using poly bushing UCA's   Eliminating binding when using poly bushing UCA's EmptyThu Sep 01, 2011 1:21 pm

I've been meaning to write this up a while, a question about the Buick brace reminded me. I've used Umi Adjustable rear upper control arms, standard and extended size, and Hotchkis Adjustable standards on four cars, three T-56 cars and one auto. Always under very hard transient turning, even at low (autocross) speeds, I've felt some bind or at least tension from the UCA's. On all four cars after installing rear frame braces from Dick Miller Racing #5029-w, all of that binding has been eliminated. It took driving a B-body with stock oem uppers to prove to myself that the cars with the poly bushing arms and the braces have no more constriction than the stock car. As to the Buick brace...For less $$ than OEM or the ebay offer, just go to a muffler shop and have them take a piece of 1 1/2 stainless exhaust pipe 40 inches long, put a small bend to clear the filler pipe, hammer it in between the frame rails, spot weld it and they should be ok with $40 cash most places. Takes ten minutes total. It's no more structural than the Buick brace but hammering in between the frame rails makes those rails a lot more rigid than the brace ever could. I've done it in addition to installing rear frame braces and then there is a structural improvement ($125. for the 5029-w braces)
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