BADASS of New England

An automobile club for the enthusiast who enjoys the last of the big GM cars. The rear wheel drive B and D bodys. Chevrolet Impala SS, Caprice, 9C1, Buick Roadmaster, Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser, Cadillac Fleetwood
 
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 79 coupe build questions

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hotrodjunky1982



Posts : 31
Join date : 2010-12-04
Age : 34
Location : fairfield county connecticut

PostSubject: 79 coupe build questions   Sun Dec 05, 2010 12:48 pm

hey guys im new here and i have a couple questions im hoping someone can answer.
1: to install dual exhaust i have heard you must you either run both pipes around the crossmember on the passenger side, "massage" the left pipe where it passes the cross member, or cut the existing crossmember/replace it with 94-96 impala. whats the best way?

2:any tips for reinstalling lower body trim without damaging new paint?

3: will 99-05 corvette staggered wheels(18rear 17front or 19rear 18 front) fit, are spacers needed, and are the bolt patterns the same?

4: will front springs from later caprice work on a 79? im looking for simple mods to make it handle better. i am already in process of swapping hotchkis upper and lower control arms and lowering springs in the rear,

5: is a 87-90 front and rear light panel update as easy as bolting new pieces to existing mounting holes, or did they change the mounting points for the later cars.

This coupe is a 1 owner northeast car with no rot, 100 percent original with floorpan so clean you could eat off it. 115k with only 15k on rebuilt 305, 3spd auto. It is currently in full primer/sealer awaiting color choices, any input would be appreciated idk which way to go with paint, but i need to hurry up and choose cause its ready.
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MASShole9C1



Posts : 4211
Join date : 2009-12-16

PostSubject: Re: 79 coupe build questions   Sun Dec 05, 2010 1:33 pm

Well, now you have to post pics Very Happy
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hotrodjunky1982



Posts : 31
Join date : 2010-12-04
Age : 34
Location : fairfield county connecticut

PostSubject: Re: 79 coupe build questions   Sun Dec 05, 2010 1:39 pm

if only i was smart enough to figure out how to upload pics. I can speak the queens english and turn a wrench, but a monkey knows more about computers than i do. i have a whole disc detailing the bodywork up to primer too.
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Machine-De-Zine



Posts : 512
Join date : 2010-11-16
Age : 60
Location : Wrentham

PostSubject: Re: 79 coupe build questions   Sun Dec 05, 2010 7:53 pm

hotrodjunky1982 wrote:
hey guys im new here and i have a couple questions im hoping someone can answer.
1: to install dual exhaust i have heard you must you either run both pipes around the crossmember on the passenger side, "massage" the left pipe where it passes the cross member, or cut the existing crossmember/replace it with 94-96 impala. whats the best way?

2:any tips for reinstalling lower body trim without damaging new paint?

3: will 99-05 corvette staggered wheels(18rear 17front or 19rear 18 front) fit, are spacers needed, and are the bolt patterns the same?

4: will front springs from later caprice work on a 79? im looking for simple mods to make it handle better. i am already in process of swapping hotchkis upper and lower control arms and lowering springs in the rear,

5: is a 87-90 front and rear light panel update as easy as bolting new pieces to existing mounting holes, or did they change the mounting points for the later cars.

This coupe is a 1 owner northeast car with no rot, 100 percent original with floorpan so clean you could eat off it. 115k with only 15k on rebuilt 305, 3spd auto. It is currently in full primer/sealer awaiting color choices, any input would be appreciated idk which way to go with paint, but i need to hurry up and choose cause its ready.

You are 28 cotton-pickin years old and you can't operate a computer, but you claim you're comfortable with a wrench in your hand? Then I guess there IS some hope for our youth! You can NOT be more useless on a computer than I. Drop the wrench and slowly step away from the vehicle. Seriously, concentrate on solving the picture posting dilemma. You have to work on that. We need photos.

#1) With a double hump cross member, mine is from a 68 Olds 442, and many are being sold after market for cheap, the rest is easy. Buy a complete dual kit from Pypes or Dynamax or Skummit/Juggs, (take your pick) and any muffler shop has the stock style hangers for in front of the rear axle and tail piece and your done.

#2) The body guys here?,, help him out, kuz I can't.

#3) Yes they can fit if you are carefull with the sizing of required wheel spacers and tire selection. . . . http://stores.ebay.com/sscramblin . . If you use those 30-35 aspect ratio tires, they are like 25" tall, it may look like ass.

#4)This is the one area I have a singular passion for. Especially Boxies. These cars have ENORMOUS handling potential for very little investment, so figure out how hard you want to turn & what your realistic budget is. You may be amazed at what you can do with the careful selection of used stock parts.

#5) I dont think the front or rear header panels line up. The body accent lines are much sharper on the earlier year cars. The body mod guys know better.


Last edited by Machine-De-Zine on Thu Dec 09, 2010 6:44 pm; edited 1 time in total
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1984twodoor



Posts : 4059
Join date : 2010-03-30
Age : 23
Location : Wilmington/Wakefield/Andover

PostSubject: Re: 79 coupe build questions   Sun Dec 05, 2010 9:13 pm

for # 2: yeah tell me too lol

#4: Tell me more about this too Very Happy Start a new thread about what YOU'VE done before (machine-de-zine) I'm all ears

And for #3 and 5 ass to both, my friend had an 83 Z28 with those wheels...too tall too stupid on stock suspension. And the header panel wouldn't look like it belonged with the sharp body line that the 77-79s have. there would be a huge drop in the big crease that runs along the windows to the fenders and you'd have to use some fiberglass or bondo or something to custom taper it off to end and not look like the header panel was just slapped on. Then again the looks are just my thoughts.

Also Welcome aboard. Aren't two doors great? Arrow
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hotrodjunky1982



Posts : 31
Join date : 2010-12-04
Age : 34
Location : fairfield county connecticut

PostSubject: Re: 79 coupe build questions   Mon Dec 06, 2010 9:54 pm

figure no more than 1000 for suspension
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Machine-De-Zine



Posts : 512
Join date : 2010-11-16
Age : 60
Location : Wrentham

PostSubject: Re: 79 coupe build questions   Mon Dec 06, 2010 11:59 pm

hotrodjunky1982 wrote:
figure no more than 1000 for suspension

Good.
Make a detailed list of every part you already have. In the car & on the garage floor. Be complete, front and rear upper & lower cntrl arms, axle, brakes, etc, it is a long list. Describe the known condition of those parts. You don't have to post the list. You will need to have it to develop a smart and affordable game plan. DO NOT include things that are NOT purchased yet. You will get to that soon enough.

Describe the condition of the chassis in terms of rust thinning, body-bushing integrity and overall vehicle straightness including the absence of accident damage and or cracks. Check for steering box slop, under body damage (floor pan and reinforcements) etc. What ever you miss on this step may bite you hard later, because you can enormously increase the loads to the car.

With out considering cost yet, nail down your ACTUAL desired END RESULT, (your goal) in terms of lateral "G"force, ride, safety (4 wheel drift vs massive factory understeer). Do you prefer easy to find replacement parts or heavily modified free used stock parts (that are hard to replace in a pinch). How are you truly going to use the vehicle. No sense making a loud, harsh, twitchy car that you MUST take your grandma for long sunday drives in.

The process involves trying to make the parts you already have get the job done. There are many manufactures out there who just want your money. Their parts sure look sexy in those adds, but if you want your car to really handle well, rather than just talk the talk , pis- - whoops!, I mean, pass on most of it. The results of GM's factory engineers are WAY better than the majority of what those aftermarket guys will sell you. Don't get me wrong, you certainly WILL be buying some new parts, but thats what budgets are for.



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hotrodjunky1982



Posts : 31
Join date : 2010-12-04
Age : 34
Location : fairfield county connecticut

PostSubject: Re: 79 coupe build questions   Tue Dec 07, 2010 9:11 pm

the body mounts look sound, looks like it had most or all bushings replaced. zero frame or any other rust. car is factory tight everywhere. the original owner was a maintenence freak who over did things(swapped the orig. motor at 100k with nothing wrong.) he told me in 1980, someone ran into the door, and quarter. they had them replaced( the door isnt hung perfect) and the whole car taken to bare metal repainted factory colors.ive had the majority taken to bare metal this time as well. in reality it needs new shocks and a headliner to be very close to a perfect factory original.

the parts i have consist of a new radio/heater plastic panel.

its my 4th (3rd driving) vehicle, not a daily driver. nice paint, nice wheels and stance, a car you can look at and appreciate the subtle quality of the ;ittle things more power(next year). my goal is a firmer, better balanced feel using quality parts. sitting a little lower in back, with less under steer upfront, if i sacrifice some smoothness its no biggie. id like to be able to drive it around corners enthusiasticly.

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Machine-De-Zine



Posts : 512
Join date : 2010-11-16
Age : 60
Location : Wrentham

PostSubject: Re: 79 coupe build questions   Wed Dec 08, 2010 1:21 am

hotrodjunky1982 wrote:
the body mounts look sound, looks like it had most or all bushings replaced. zero frame or any other rust. car is factory tight everywhere. the original owner was a maintenence freak who over did things(swapped the orig. motor at 100k with nothing wrong.) he told me in 1980, someone ran into the door, and quarter. they had them replaced( the door isnt hung perfect) and the whole car taken to bare metal repainted factory colors.ive had the majority taken to bare metal this time as well. in reality it needs new shocks and a headliner to be very close to a perfect factory original.

the parts i have consist of a new radio/heater plastic panel.

its my 4th (3rd driving) vehicle, not a daily driver. nice paint, nice wheels and stance, a car you can look at and appreciate the subtle quality of the ;ittle things more power(next year). my goal is a firmer, better balanced feel using quality parts. sitting a little lower in back, with less under steer upfront, if i sacrifice some smoothness its no biggie. id like to be able to drive it around corners enthusiasticly.

Excellent news!

Next necessary topic is brakes. Do you want to have disc/drum or disc/disc?

Is the rear axle an 8.5" or one of the smaller ones? Read the full code in the forward facing pass-side housing tube.

Are you locked into staying with the 5 bolts on a 4.75" circle, or would you consider 5 on 5"?

Look at the front of the steering gear box and see if you can read the two letter code on the front round convex cover.

The more we can use thats already there, the more budget you have left for the really essential stuff.
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hotrodjunky1982



Posts : 31
Join date : 2010-12-04
Age : 34
Location : fairfield county connecticut

PostSubject: Re: 79 coupe build questions   Wed Dec 08, 2010 1:27 am

im fine with the disc/drums for now. il check the other stuff in the a.m. prefer to stay with same bolt pattern for now
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Machine-De-Zine



Posts : 512
Join date : 2010-11-16
Age : 60
Location : Wrentham

PostSubject: Re: 79 coupe build questions   Wed Dec 08, 2010 2:12 am

hotrodjunky1982 wrote:
im fine with the disc/drums for now. il check the other stuff in the a.m. prefer to stay with same bolt pattern for now

Just remember, If you think you will really want to upgrade later on, and you anticipate doing it with in a similarly tight budget, the choices you make now will have to be carefully made.

Front spindles are a good example: For brakes there are 11" and 12",each requires its specific spindle . 12" rotors are easy to get in both bolt patterns because of early 90s 1LE F-bodies. Basically those are the two non-ABS choices.

If you will want more power in your future, maybe find an old 9C1 rear with big drums, and leave it alone for now, so that the option to convert to disc later will be easier & cheaper, and the strength of the big 8.5" will already be present and paid in full.

If you KNOW that you will never need a stronger rear, then any efforts to improve the 7.5" rear will not be tossed out later, but the ultimate strength of that unit is limited.

After the brakes are settled upon, you can start looking at the next logical step, but lets stay with the brake questions until you have had time to consider many options as well as their consequences.

Making smart brake choices necessitates confronting unavoidable dilemmas in your other suspension options. An intelligent, realistic plan requires patience, but pays handsome performance dividends per dollar invested.

You may not be able to see this so easily, but check the welds where the side frame sections connect to the front and rear box sections. These cars are prone to splitting at the weld zone. All four of mine were cracked.
You have to look on top, between the floor pan and the top of the frame. The way it is constructed, you will not be able to see the cracks from underneath.



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hotrodjunky1982



Posts : 31
Join date : 2010-12-04
Age : 34
Location : fairfield county connecticut

PostSubject: Re: 79 coupe build questions   Fri Dec 10, 2010 1:00 pm

must i remove body to fix the welds, if cracked
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Machine-De-Zine



Posts : 512
Join date : 2010-11-16
Age : 60
Location : Wrentham

PostSubject: Re: 79 coupe build questions   Fri Dec 10, 2010 1:46 pm

hotrodjunky1982 wrote:
must i remove body to fix the welds, if cracked

Not completely. You can lower the chassis one side at a time as if you were going to change the body "biscuits". Even a muffler shop that has an angled m.i.g. nozzle could get in there, you only need a couple inches.

You loosen up one side enough to allow movement and drop the body bolts on the other side. The frame will separate from the body a few inches so you can see the condition and make repairs if required.

Make sure your steering column, ground straps, radiator hoses and such will allow separation with out binding or damage. Also the old brittle urethane bumper filler strips need clearance. Just look it over as you work.

I doubt yours are cracked but it would be easy enough to check and then you would know for sure. Sometimes cars don't feel right when driven and this will be a contributing factor on occasion.
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hotrodjunky1982



Posts : 31
Join date : 2010-12-04
Age : 34
Location : fairfield county connecticut

PostSubject: Re: 79 coupe build questions   Fri Dec 10, 2010 1:55 pm

i assume they are fine, car tracks straight and i looked it over on a lift prior to purchase to verify its rot/rust free status
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Machine-De-Zine



Posts : 512
Join date : 2010-11-16
Age : 60
Location : Wrentham

PostSubject: Re: 79 coupe build questions   Fri Dec 10, 2010 2:20 pm

hotrodjunky1982 wrote:
i assume they are fine, car tracks straight and i looked it over on a lift prior to purchase to verify its rot/rust free status

Just know that the cracks I refer to can NOT be seen with out looking on TOP of the chassis and under the body. But its your car and your call. However,

If you wanted to firm up your ride and improve it's handling potential, change your body bushings anyway, then it would be a no brainer to examine the frame.
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