BADASS of New England

An automobile club for the enthusiast who enjoys the last of the big GM cars. The rear wheel drive B and D bodys. Chevrolet Impala SS, Caprice, 9C1, Buick Roadmaster, Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser, Cadillac Fleetwood
 
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 The car problem bitching post

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bammax



Posts : 2301
Join date : 2009-02-22
Age : 35
Location : Mansfield, Ma

PostSubject: The car problem bitching post   Sun Mar 22, 2009 6:08 pm

I'd like to start the bitching post by bitching about the latest issue my car has thrown at me.

My undercarriage is bathed in oil all the way back to the trans-crossmember. Oddly enough my oil level is not low, but in fact reading a bit high. My coolant level on the other hand is a bit low. The oil is slightly thin yet the coolant doesn't seem contaminated. scratch

The other reason for bitching is one that I've had for a couple years now. Namely that my voltage reads 18 until the car has been running a bit and then it steadily drops to the point that my blinkers and wipers almost completely stop. I rechecked all the battery cables and they are all nice and snug with decent grounds. As an added benefit I get a nice high-pitched whine from my rear passenger side speaker when I press the gas even when the radio is turned off. And just to nicely round things out I get electrocuted everytime I get out of the car and touch the door-frame to close the door. affraid
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waynes91



Posts : 221
Join date : 2009-03-05

PostSubject: Re: The car problem bitching post   Sun Mar 22, 2009 8:16 pm

sounds like we need to name u sparky ... all grounds good ,frame to body,havent added anything lately, hows the trannie oil , had a front seal leak made a mess just a shot in the dark
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bammax



Posts : 2301
Join date : 2009-02-22
Age : 35
Location : Mansfield, Ma

PostSubject: Re: The car problem bitching post   Sun Mar 22, 2009 10:50 pm

I had the voltage problem when I got the car. I replaced the alternator with a reman from Autozone and the drain got a little slower. Then I added Gary's battery cables and headlight harness and the problem just moved from 14volts and dropping to 18volts and dropping.

The battery grounds are good, and the engine to body ground is good. I don't know where the other grounds are to check. There's deffinetly a voltage issue since my waterpump started to get white scale on it within a month of putting it in and all the coverbolts started rusting around the same time. I'm pretty sure the waterpump is getting charged but the battery to engine ground (grounds to a bolt at the waterpump) has been checked numerous times and it's solid.

I'm hoping the fluid issue is just really burnt trans fluid since I already know my trans is going out. Last time I coated the car in fluid like this it was the oil filter adapter gasket releasing hot oil under pressure and the wind carrying it the rest of the way downstream.
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sdstick



Posts : 4278
Join date : 2009-03-20
Location : Revere, MA

PostSubject: Re: The car problem bitching post   Mon Mar 30, 2009 8:01 pm

I think I'd move the ground OFF the waterpump.
I'll find out where its supposed to be if you dont know.
http://shbox.com/1/battery_cable_ground.jpg
I'm thinking the waterpump is gasketed to the block
The waterpump drive can only get ground thru the bearings?
I think directly to the block. Youve checked back of block/head? driverside to chassis is solid?

_________________
Steve


96BBB 28K 3.42 Bolt-ons
95BBB 100K 3.73 383 New DD...already broke fixt the 4L60E twice
95 Black WB4 Hole...ee...grail
96 Black WB4 No holes in this
95BBB 189K 3.08 Old DD Stolen...by Matt. Cool
Whine..eee...Silver LS6
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bammax



Posts : 2301
Join date : 2009-02-22
Age : 35
Location : Mansfield, Ma

PostSubject: Re: The car problem bitching post   Tue Mar 31, 2009 12:57 pm

The ground is actually to the alternator support rod next to the pump. I just say at the pump to avoid confusion with the alternator support rod at the exhaust manifold. I'm almost positive it's got something to do with the negative to fender connection, but I can't seem to make it any better no matter how much I play with it.

The other grounds are fine on the engine, but I don't know about the grounds from the body to the frame since I haven't found any yet. Over the weekend I'm going to pull out the headlight harness and see if that makes a difference. The headlights are run straight off the battery and when they are on the volts drop quicker.

In the end I think it comes down to a fualty voltage regulator in the remaned AC Delco alternator. Odd though cause it tests fine in and out of the car.
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QwikImpSS



Posts : 164
Join date : 2009-02-16
Age : 32
Location : Pembroke, NH

PostSubject: Re: The car problem bitching post   Tue Mar 31, 2009 6:05 pm

My rockers are rusting on my Impala (someone wanna help me out?), my engine light is on, I put in my guages that have been fixed and now the odo. works and I realized my SS has 191k on it.....ugh.

That's my bitching...
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Guest



PostSubject: Re: The car problem bitching post   Tue Mar 31, 2009 6:10 pm

QwikImpSS wrote:
My rockers are rusting on my Impala (someone wanna help me out?), my engine light is on, I put in my guages that have been fixed and now the odo. works and I realized my SS has 191k on it.....ugh.

That's my bitching...
I can help with the rust. If your car is a 96, you can take it to autozone and they will check the engine light and tell you why it is on. If it is a 95, you will need to have either a hand held scanner for OBD1 or pay to have it checked out.
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QwikImpSS



Posts : 164
Join date : 2009-02-16
Age : 32
Location : Pembroke, NH

PostSubject: Re: The car problem bitching post   Tue Mar 31, 2009 6:21 pm

Yeah, it's an OBDII car. I plan on buying a scanner so I can check/erase codes at will. I do need it inspected this month and with NH's new computer scanning stuff I don't know if it'll pass....grr, I hate being a car guy sometimes!!!


Somtime I'll bring my SS over and have you check out the rust though, I know you have some bodywork experience...and what you sanded out on your SS looks good.
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waynes91



Posts : 221
Join date : 2009-03-05

PostSubject: Re: The car problem bitching post   Tue Mar 31, 2009 10:28 pm

now ive heard that the emisson nazis can tell if u cleared the codes or take the battery cable off to reset codes etc , unless there is a certain time period goes by or a among of miles u need to drive not 100% sure how that all works , the cel may go out but internally hasnt reset itself ... i have no f'n idea i think its a bunch of BS anyway just a money maker for the shops
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LiveFreeorDieTryin



Posts : 90
Join date : 2009-02-14
Location : Monroe, Wisconsin

PostSubject: Re: The car problem bitching post   Tue Mar 31, 2009 11:14 pm

My Lesabre needs rear struts and it sounds like there's two midgets wrestling in the trunk all the time and the car vibrates like a washing machine on spin cycle whenever it is in TCC lockup confused .

My wife's Trailblazer's 4WD comes on by itself at highway speeds affraid , and only goes back into 2WD if I beat on the dash and the back tires will only hold air for 2 days Mad .

My wagon is in Waterloo Cool .

That's about it!
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bammax



Posts : 2301
Join date : 2009-02-22
Age : 35
Location : Mansfield, Ma

PostSubject: Re: The car problem bitching post   Sat Apr 04, 2009 2:04 pm

New bitch. I finally replaced my broken door mirror and would like to once again say how much I hate plastic door panel clips. They never come out without a fight and then they eventually end up breaking anyway. At least this time I only destroyed a couple clips and only managed to slice open 1 finger. That's alot better than the last time I took off a door panel on this car.

I miss the old flat panels that screwed on like my '66 Bonneville had. These plastic pieces suck ass.
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PostSubject: Re: The car problem bitching post   Today at 6:32 am

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