Brake help needed

I replaced my master last week and everything went fine. Then a couple days ago the main line running to the rear blew out. I spent all day yesterday fixing it and I'm still getting no brake pressure and the light comes on at prolonged stops. I've followed all the lines from the wheels to the master to check for leaks and I'm not seeing anything. The front passenger line I lose as it goes across the car so I can't verify that it isn't blown somewhere around the engine/firewall. The rear brakes can't be bled since the bleeder screws are too rotten to get a good grip with a socket and a wrench doesn't have much access.

Here's the primary note, the brakes take 3 pumps to get firm and 4 makes the pedal impossible to push. Once the car is started and the booster kicks in the peddle goes down 1/2 to 3/4 before the brakes grab and then they barely grab.

If anyone is able to swing by over the weekend to help me track down the problem I'd really appreciate it. I can't afford to go to a mechanic and my body isn't up to spending any more time crawling under the car for a bit. My doctor would flip if he saw how much I did yesterday

Well if your rear line blew & you didnt / cant bleed the rears, there's your air.
You've gotta crack the bleeders or.....?

Yeah, you gotta bleed it, man.

Put a socket on the bleeders. If they break, replace the wheel cylinders. They are cheap enough...

I did the old Blazer and ran into the same trouble with the bleeders and never had this kind of trouble. I'd like to think that's all it is though.

Maybe someone can help me find a way to open the bleeders on the back. The socket can't bite since the bolts are so rusted and the locking wrench doesn't have enough access. I'm just too sore to keep trying.

I know you said you didn't have a torch, but I'd seriously buy one. They are pretty damn cheap!

I remember a friend of mine did something weird where he heated the fittings up very hot when they were rusted together and kept spraying them with water (I think it was water...) and kept working them back and forth to get them loose. Don't know if it will work with your problem though. Have you used any PB Blaster, or even better, AeroKroil (I think NAPA sells it)?

Put a 6 point deep socket on the bleeder and work it back and forth slow. It'll either come free or break off... Use 1/4 inch drive so you have less chance of breaking it.

That's not the problem. The bleeders aren't frozen that I know of. The points are worn off so the socket wont really bite well. It's not totally rounded off but enough to keep the socket from grabbing once you apply torque. I need to get a locking wrench in there but there's no clearence because of the shape of the assembly.

I won't know if it's frozen until I can get a tool on it that will grab solidly. It's almost as if they've shrunk a half size from the rust flaking off.

If it was me I would find the next size down socket, be it metric or standard, and get it so that the points line up with the 6 point socket, even though it is a bit too small, and beat it on there, it will eventually go on and you can simply ratchet it back and forth like Bill said. Have two more bleeders ready to replace because this will destroy the old rusted ones, and it will be a bear getting them out of that socket once it comes out, but worth it.

I've been using tools like they weren't supposed to be used for years.

BTW make sure they are Craftsman or Husky so that if/when you break a socket it is replaced.

Doug

I finally managed to get the rear passenger side taken care of. The rear drivers side aint happening. 5/16th socket is a hair loose. So I switched to the 8mm which grabs nice and tight. Then when you start to turn the wrench it just pops and spins. The things is just about completely striped at this point. Oh well, 3 out of 4 aint bad

If I was closer id swing by and give ya a hand. Ironically the only place my back isnt sore is on a floor creeper crawling under a car. Go figure.