T56 longevity

Just my luck, got a call buddy found a complete 93 trans am/formula blown motor t56 for 600, 180k on the tranny. Is it worth it? He wants to buy it for a project.

All day long.

Yeah, and if it's an M29 tranny, that is the Holy Friggin Grail.

There were two '93 trannys. Both had lower torque ratings than the '94-97s. You should jut resell it to one of the people here waiting in line.

Just joking, I'd user either one.

I'd say the life without a rebuild is 150,000 ± 150,00 miles. I always looked at it they have got to be a whole lot easier to rebuild than an auto.

Save a bird! Fix it up!

went today and looked at it, car is in pretty gd shape, i got in it, the shifter knob says 5 speed. I was thinking great!!!!! I ran through the gears, nice and smooth and it is a 6 speed. Short through shifter. Engines had some work done, headers, intake and blocks been painted. Seats were ruff, the electrical was screwed up also, the fans came on with a switch. There was autometer gauges in the heat ducts.
my buddy decided to pass, so myself and another buddy bought it. Bought the whole car for $1000. Gd deal i think.

Here is the link
http://maine.craigslist.org/cto/1557023086.html

You can probably part it out and make that money back. Good buy!

Thats what is was thinking, couldn't pass it up really. Once i get it next week i'll get under it and see what the tranny is, i'm hoping for an m29 but won't hold my breath.

Sweet deal, I need to find a deal like that...

Doug

So now that ive got the tranny and all the F-body parts, i'm having trouble finding a crossmember. Ron gave me an idea, but cheap and good is my main priority.

No Moa wrote:

So now that ive got the tranny and all the F-body parts, i'm having trouble finding a crossmember. Ron gave me an idea, but cheap and good is my main priority.

You can modify your stocker fairly easily. Or you could pick up one of the tubular ones for like a buck and a half IIRC.

I'd like to modify the stock as I have plenty, anyone got dementions?,

I think '93 Trans Ams only got the M29. Look at the RPO codes.

I believe you could only get a M28 in the Z28s.

https://badass-of-ne.forumotion.com/modifications-performance-f7/93-t56-info-needed-t895.htm

Only way to be sure is turn the input shaft and count the oupt revs. We had a '94 Z that the previous owner replaced the original 3.42 axle with a 2.73 axle.

I'm not sure if i should not bought this car, or not posted over at ISSF any questions about it. they sure like pointing out that i should buy a less mile kit. I think this is a good deal and will work for me, i just won't evey have the money to buy a 1700 kit, new drive shafts, cross members and sh!t.

There's nobody left over there that knows what they're talking about. They're all throwing around other peoples money and then calling them stupid for not following the pack.

I'm sure you could sell it here if you ever change your mind.

I've heard the same argument before the crash.

Dude, all you need for a bolt in swap is the f2b kit. That's 400 bucks. You can mod your crossmember. Your driveshaft may be fine. You will need gears though... But you can drive it with the 3.08's til you can afford 'em.

I have a f2b kit, I bought it 5 years ago, still in the box, I have a 373 gear set, it's used and the posi is bad, but it's in one of the cars I bought.
That's y this is a great group, we all support ideas, not deture them.

Got the car home yesturday, spid says LT1 GU4 G80 M29

No Moa wrote:

Got the car home yesturday, spid says LT1 GU4 G80 M29

You lucky SOB! Now you can run 3.73's and keep your driveshaft speeds down.

I've seen the argument before; You'd be better off paying $2200 for a new tranny... Where's the fun in that?

Is the engine blown or does it just not start?


If you decide to sell them Lloyld Elliot buys the early heads for around $150.

All the V8 stuff including the fuel lines, engine harness, and K member can be easily sold.

Is the body in good shape? Is it for sale?

What kind of headers? Are they for sale?

The body is ok, but not perfect, the rear wheelhouse has holes in it.The panels are good, the fiberglass nose is very nice.

The engine ran last summer, then he parked it for a couple weeks, and it never started again. It turns over fine.

It does have longtube headers, I think they are headman headers. Its hard to see. But they look in good shape.

I'm going to try to get the engine to run before i start the dismantle. On those cars you have to remove the engine from the bottom. My plan is to check out the engine, remove it and the tranny. He is guessing the engine only has 102k on it. And it looks like it has alum heads. Again hard to see.

The interior is good, except the seats are cracked up good.

The car has 2 inspection sticker on it. Mass and Conn, both with the same years i'm guessing maybe the car has so many miles because it was a commuter between the 2 states. Its hard to believe anyone would put 186k on a 93 trans am. But who knows.

I'm not the least bit concerned about the tranny, the pedals worry me they might be worn out, but again if it was highway miles then they wouldn't have been used much. I'll rebuild them the best i can. I'm not building a high HP engine, the stock modded alittle will be fine for me.

Boojum, to answer your question, yes all of whats left, it will be for sale, there are tons of good parts.You looking for some parts Boojum? I thought about fixing it and selling it, but i have no title, as in Maine you don't need one after 15 years, So i couldn't sell it out of state. And i'm not sure its worth trying to get it all back together. The tank and rear is half out of it, when he replaced the fuel pump.
I'm hoping to recop enough money from the parts to pay back the money i borrowed to purchase my buddies half. There is also a kid up the street has a 95, so i'm sure i'll hear from him about some stuff.
I'll have someone post up some pics here pretty quick.

NH has that 15 year no-title law too.

toomanytoyz wrote:

NH has that 15 year no-title law too.

Didn't know that. I knew there was a reason i liked NH. lol

Assuming you have fuel pressure. If you can, scan for error codes. If the opti is bad the fuel is cut off by the PCM. DTC 16 is the code. Ask how I know. If you a think a vented opti is trouble you ain't going to like the unvented version.

I got a deal on my Camaro because the previouse owner was looking at everything but the opti because it was new with just 200 miles on it. I took a opti from a running car and put it mine and and failed to start, yup DTC 16.

You don't need a tilte in NH for '93s. Realistically it's not likely I'd be interested in the body unless you let it go real cheap. On the other hand I wouldn't need any of the V8 or T56 related stuff, just the shell. I might be interested in the headers. I ah, have a few other Camaro parts around.

You can pull the engine from the top if you pull the tranny first. Do a search for the happy hooker (no joke). If you want to hack it up I have a thread here somewhere showing what you need to cut.

I have a set of pedals form a 140k mi. car that I though had a lot of slop until I compared them to the one in my car. The ones in mine move side to side quite a bit. I never noticed this driving the car. Anyway you can use pedals from any 4th gen even a V6.

DTC 16, I'll bet a buck!

I have a brand new scanner, i'll have to try it out on it. whats the DTC 16? Opti?

Search for the happy hooker? I'm afraid to.

i'm going to strip the body bare, or as much as i can.

DTC 16 is low resolution pulse failure or something like that. Most likely the opti electronics died or a problem with the opti wiring.

BTW you can convert a non-vented opti to vented.

Happy hooker:

Thems some small screws...

as you saw in the other thread, i tried to code read today, blah. it did sho charged the batt up, the engine will kick, but sounds liek the starter is binding. so i'm going to pull it out and reshim it, but also most of the gas is in the oil pan, i pulled the stick, and it was 4 inches up the stick. So there is the next problam. I'll drain the oil, check the opti for spark.

NO DTC 16 BTW!!! Wheres my buck. lol

Well tha't a lot of gas but I'd still check the engine coolant temperature sensor. A bad one (or connection) will cause the car to be very hard to start and run very rich. They can fail and not set a code. It can help if you scanner can read the temperature.

So i was reading Mikes (ISSF) install kit booklet that Ron emailed me, holy sh!t. I'm damn good at working on cars, but this maybe more than i can handle, hope you t56 guys don't mind late night phone calls! lol

No Moa wrote:

So i was reading Mikes (ISSF) install kit booklet that Ron emailed me, holy sh!t. I'm damn good at working on cars, but this maybe more than i can handle, hope you t56 guys don't mind late night phone calls! lol

I never read his how-to, but it's not difficult. You remove the seats and carpet, auto tranny and flexplate, install pilot bearing, bellhousing, tranny for mock-up, mark shifter hole and lockout solenoid location, remove tranny, take a BFH to the solenoid's location for a minute, cut shifter hole. Install flywheel and clutch assembly, reinstall tranny, new/modded crossmember, stock driveshaft, cut holes and mount f2b kit per instructions, install pedals, mount master and slave, a little simple wiring, fill up the tranny, install the shifter, and carpet and seats (or just one seat for now ), reflash PCM if you are able (I have tunercat and cable AND a stock motored file, if ya need it) and take it for a ride. Full day's work. Easy weekend's worth.

What seems to be the complicated part? <---- Not trying to be an ass.

lol, you make it sound so easy.

I think the wireing and the cutting will be the hardest part for me. I want to do the cut out for the solinoid instead of beating it with a hammer, then install the large boot. but i don't know, maybe a BFH is the way to go.

I have a tendency to measure 5 times, and still cut wrong.

I'll have someone reflash the PCM for me, i wouldn't even know where to start there.

Also, anyone want to modify the stock 95 impala SS console for me?

one more thing, does Clear imagine not make the crossmember anymore? I couldn't find it.

It was tough to find. Big, BOLD, BLUE, link at the top of the drivetrain page.

http://www.clearimageautomotive.com/Tubular%20Cross%20member.htm

WTF, i pushed the product link. i got to stop playing MW2 all damn night, thank you again.

No Moa wrote:

WTF, i pushed the product link. i got to stop playing MW2 all damn night, thank you again.

LOL.

So close! Yet so far....

story of my life

As Bill stated, it's not that difficult at all. Mikes writeup does make it seem worse than it is. I have not done the conversion, but with the knowledge I have in my head about it, I know I could do it in my driveway.
I may even forgo putting an auto trany in Brads car, and try and find a t-56 myself once I get back on track. I have driven both Bill's, and Ron's cars, and all I can say is WOW! It is like taking 1000 lbs off the old barge.

Hey you have to accept the bet before you scan.

Save the bird! It already is almost 1000 lbs. lighter.

Add this T56 pigtial package to your list: http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/transmission_pigtails.aspx

Unless you are just going to cut them off a perfectly good F-body harness.

She'll be saved by donating parts to other cars. I'm not going to fix it, no one up here would buy this car with 187k on it for anything more than I paid for it.

I'm not cutting the harness, every part I hope will find a good home.

boojum wrote:

Hey you have to accept the bet before you scan.

Save the bird! It already is almost 1000 lbs. lighter.

Add this T56 pigtial package to your list: http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/transmission_pigtails.aspx

Unless you are just going to cut them off a perfectly good F-body harness.

I just need the 3 piece t56 kit I'm guessing?

That's a GREAT link, Jim! Thanks!

(I'd just murder the harness, though... )

EFI Connection came up as one the ads on this forum a while back. I couldn't find the thread.

I think that's what you need. Don't really know. Don't you you need 1 or 2 switches from the clutch pedal also?

I don't really care if you cut the harness, just trying to add some humor along with pointing out the EFI link. It's not like I'm going to come up there and blow up your dog or something.

NO NOT MY RETARDED DOG!!!!

There are no retarded dogs. Just retarded owners.














Sorry couldn't help myself.

I won't argue that mark! That's y you and I get along so well, we both ride the same short bus!

toomanytoyz wrote:

(I'd just murder the harness, though... )

I just saw a harness on ebay, at $150 bucks, so if i got $150 for mine, and bought the EFI ones, or theres a guy on ebay selling them, i'd make $125 bucks.

toomanytoyz wrote:

No Moa wrote:

Got the car home yesturday, spid says LT1 GU4 G80 M29

You lucky SOB! Now you can run 3.73's and keep your driveshaft speeds down.

so I was reading a post over at issf, wagon collector says the m28 is best for 373, but the m29 needs 410s, are my 373s gonna make it?

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=238253&page=4